Thread: I've Become SLAB........New to me 220 Dauntless

Wow!

You’re gonna be running out of space in your shop soon.

Hard to beat them for safety being foam filled and all. Great looking ride!

Nice rig

Very nice. And no, don't say it's so, don't become Slab. Slab only fixes stuff half way. We like Roj, he goes 110%.

Hey your stuff is on the road, Stubby is a very impressive recovery from a questionable purchase to me.

Both T&T cylinders just poured oil out of the Caps. The wiper seals & dust seals had just disintegrated. I didn't take many pictures of the removal and install of both cylinders as there are several good YouTube videos of that.



The cylinders attach by a pin on top retained by a snap ring and these 2 allen head bolts on the bottom. Before removing the allen head bolts pull the 2 cylinders out together as they rotate on the Boss in the first picture. There is a drift alignment pin that can be damaged if you try to pull out the cylinders after the bolts are removed. 3 O-Rings are in the lower union of the two parts.



I break the Caps first while the Cylinders are still installed. A trick I use is a Heat Gun to heat up the threaded area first. Most service centers use a Air Impact Chisel to break the caps loose destroying them but I have this Hot Air trick which frees almost every cap I'm breaking loose for the first time by expanding the Aluminum Housing ever so slightly. This is done without damaging the paint finish like a Torch would do. Anyway once in the vise I finish removing the caps and use a toggle for a handle to pull the Piston/Rod assembly out. Notice the Oil Pans on the floor, this is messy work.



Look at the Gook on the Pistons. Certainly contaminated with water. You have to wipe out the cylinder area too. I use compressed air afterwards here further cleaning the cylinder out before pushing the inner piston down.



This "Shoots" oil everywhere, have floor dry handy. I use Hardwood Dowels as a plunger handle so I can't scratch the cylinder inner wall.



I'm sure y'all know this trick but if you don't once the floor dry has picked up what it can I clean up the contaminated floor dry then add fresh down. Using a 2x4 block I scrub the floor dry into the concrete removing any remaining oils.



Using the piece of Saddle Leather to protect the machined end of the piston rod I break the allen head retaining the piston check valves loose before disassembling on a white piece of cloth. Using a white cloth or towel helps you to see all the parts that come out. The Piston is threaded onto the rod so it must be removed without damaging it. I rigged the rod back in the engine temporarily and used the 2 Carbide Bits & Alignment Bar to break the piston loose and re-torque it later.



You can see all the little parts well on the old T-Shirt. Look at the Gook on the underside of the Cap. Funky. Both shafts needed polishing so back in the vise the Eye goes and while supporting the threaded stem on the other side I polished the shaft well with Crocus Cloth. Using lots of clean T&T Fluid I installed the replacement Caps on then reassembled the cylinders.



Filling & Bleeding was done by running the Rams in and out till the fluid remained about 1 inch down under the fill cap. Do not fill a Verado any higher or pressure will blow the Fill Cap off.



Once I finished I align the cylinder eyes up at put everything back together.

You are one busy fella. Thanks for the tip