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Thread: 1996 Blazer VL100 Restoration to Crappie Chaser

  1. #411
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    You could use a Gauss meter and test The EMF strength in tesla that the magnet puts out.

    I don't know if you can recharge a seal magnet. Or if you could would it last.

    When I was teaching, I did some testing on automobile engines with the magnetic pickup sensors when the steel tooth wheel became magnetized. Interesting stuff. IMO
    Ephesians 1:13
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  2. #412
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    If the flywheel I just ordered is good I'm going to just move on to tuning. I have to back in down into the water a bit so I can do a burn in spark plug test. Just want to see if all 3 cylinders are getting the same amount of fuel @ WOT also that no lean conditions exist.

  3. #413
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    Just a quick update the flywheel arrived today I should get it installed tomorrow and the engine ready to tune. I had a issue nagging at me the Longitudinal stability. With the 358# Yamaha 115 removed and a 239# Yamaha C90 installed the 50# battery in the forward compartment would really increase the drag on the hull. I went ahead and relocated it before testing. You can see the impression in the carpet where the battery was and now it is in the Stbd Aft compartment as far inboard as I could mount it. With the Trolling Motor on the Port side I felt the battery would be better on the Stbd side.

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    With this boat in service I can finish the Canvas for the Reverse Arch I fabricated earlier.
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  4. #414
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    Default Water Test Revealed Another Issue

    Well every prop in my stash was too big for this engine. I ran a 17in Ballistic Prop before but I must have sold it. Not wanting to buy another since discovering the Solas Hydro Prop. Hydro props offer surprising performance for mid-sized outboards. I have a 20in & 22in but the 20 was too big, maybe way too big - we will see I picked up a 18in Hydro and installed it today. If it is still a bit big I can take a inch of pitch out of it but I hope it will work enough for now. These engines you can mill about 120 thousandths off the head and gain a solid 10hp. If the prop is a tiny bit over-sized I can baby it till I get a spare head in my stash milled.

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    Having a smaller diameter these props are easy to turn compared to "Large Ear" prop. Still the fastest mid-sized outboard prop I have found. They hold water too, unlike a Ballistic prop these don't blow-out in turns. That's not the original Skeg either I welded it on in 2015.
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  5. #415
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    Ran the boat yesterday and top speed was 45.2mph in both directions, 5600rpm, and prop slip was 5.30 on BBlades.com Prop Slip Calculator so either I did a outstanding job Blueprinting this hull or the Prop is a bit oversized. The Prop Slip numbers with the 115 Yamaha 2 Stroke was 7.10 @ 53mph 5600rpm. When you get in the 7's that racing hull performance I have never in my life seen a hull break into the 5's.
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  6. #416
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    Gotta like that, great job Roj.


    Maybe the water was extra wet that day! just kidding, lol
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    HaHa Rojo, S10CHEVY haha

  7. #417
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    Wow!
    isn’t it Great when a plan works out so well you even surprise yourself!!

    BON TEMPS !!
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  8. #418
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    Jamesdean is offline Crappie.com Legend * Crappie.com Supporter
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    May seem a waste of my time to some, but I actually get more from it this way. Sticks in my thick skull better so to speak. Any way, I'll be starting on my own make over of my own 1980 Ebbtide 160 soon, so I thought I would copy John's thread of his rebuild, word for word, the old fashioned way. Long hand. Yes, I could copy it using a printer, but I don't retain it in my head as well, and I could just read the original thread again and save the ink of printing. Thank you John, for the TON of info you provide in your threads. Very, very helpful.Name:  20250913_140057.jpg
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    Sent from my SM-S916U using Crappie.com Fishing mobile app
    Proud to have served with and supported the Units I was in: 1st IDF, 9th INF, 558th USAAG (Greece), 7th Transportation Brigade, 6th MEDSOM (Korea), III Corp, 8th IDF, 3rd Armor Div.
    1980 Ebbtide Dyna-Trak 160 Evinrude 65 Triumph
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  9. #419
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    Default Can't Tune out This Issue.........Lean Cylinder

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    1 - 2 - 3 you can see in the picture #3 is awfully white. I have tuned, clean carbs, swapped heads (added a 150 psi Head), timed the engine perfectly, drilled out the idle jets, and swapped the Main Jets from 70's to 65's. The engine takes off from idle with a little stumble. Idling a little rough but not terrible to screaming smooth.

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    Looking somewhere I haven't looked yet I pulled the Reeds to see if I could see light thru any of them. Nada. When a Reed really fails air will blow of from the carb on a 2 stroke. I wasn't getting any that I could feel, the carbs were sucking only but I had to rule out a bouncing Reed. So since I recently replaced the Exhaust housing gaskets I can only think the bottom Crankshaft seal is bad. I spoke with a friend who races these engines and he said I probably damaged the seals because I didn't pull the Lower Unit before dropping the Powerhead back on. I'm in the process of tearing the engine back down as I also discovered the Bushing inside the Pivot Tube that allows the engine to swivel are both gone. The engine must be torn down to the C-Clamping Tilt Base to replace the bushings. The Crank seals will be replaced while the Powerhead is off.
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  10. #420
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    Default Found the Idle Miss Plus Other Damage

    I was not able to tune out the idle miss in the 90hp Yamaha and also noticed the engine shaking around more than it should.

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    Pulling the Head is pretty easy but cleaning the mating surfaces takes a lot of patience.

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    You must use a OEM Yamaha Head Gasket when using higher compression heads.

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    I use Acetone to clean all oils off the mating surfaces and use Extreme Pressure grease on the Head Bolts before installing.

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    All the torquing is done before the Spark Plugs are installed.

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    Here I'm ready to start it up. Well I did start it up and still was not happy with the idle. Diagnosing the problem I found this........

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    This is the order of cylinder 1 - 2 - 3 which cylinder 3 is lean & wet at the same time.

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    I pulled the Powerhead to check the Lower Crankshaft Seals and found they were burned not torn as suspected. Seal material has transferred to the Crankshaft running surface.

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    This has never happened in one of my rebuilds so further disassembly is needed. Here is a picture of a spare rotating assembly Lower Crankshaft Sealing area.

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    The shaking at idle was something else. Back in early 2017 a buddy of mine wanted to stock his pond with Goggle-eye. I happened to be on spawning Goggle-eye in the Pearl so I offered instead of a trip to the Hatchery where I buy my Shiners we go catch Bull Goggle-eye & Loaded Females and put them in his pond. We happen to hit a inverted Cypress tree on the way up the West Middle of the Pearl turning my old Blazer transom to jello. I replaced the transom and we were back out catching in a week. Funny thing, we were catching Goggle-eye a Marlboro box would fit in their mouths and my buddy (gone now) was the owner of Trapani's Restaurant. Well we had over 50 in the Livewell when I caught a absolute monster Female bursting with eggs so I remarked this one is going to be turned into a Taco! He's begging me to put her in the Livewell and promised me a whole case of Steaks if I didn't throw her in the ice chest.

    This engine was on the boat then and the impact did a lot of damage I missed.

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    These 2 Lower Motor Mount Housings were cracked in the impact allowing the engine movement.

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    The engine Tiller has multiple bushings inside it well the bottom Bushings are gone also. I am stripping it out next week to replace everything inside.

    jjue1979 is coming Saturday with his boat so we can make a game plan on his Transom repair so I've moved this boat out for more room in the shop.
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