Thread: Tree Crushed 2500HD Silverado Crew Repair

Using a 6ft straight edge tapped to the existing door trim and front door for a guide I prepared to install the rear door trim.



First thing this trim is not available from Chevrolet anymore. I took my time using a high quality adhesive remover to degrade the old doublestick tape.



Since all I could get in the 3M brand was 1/4in tape I put 4 rows to make sure this door trim stays where I put it.



The Door Trim really helps the body repair come together. I have another small piece to install on the Cab Corner but it is lost in the shop at the moment. It will turn up when I start cleaning.

Looks good. Last year I had a trim piece coming off and used one of those eraser wheels which made quick work removing the tape. I also used 4 rows of tape when applying the trim back on.

With the truck bed still off and 229K miles on the Rearend (A.A.M. 10.5 Unit) I decided to replace the Rear Axle Bearings and Emergency Brake Shoes & Hardware.



This unit has Full Floating Axles so I have to pull the Hubs and get on the Hydraulic Press.



Starting with putting the rearend on Jackstands I removed the Wheels & Rotors. The rotors just slide off. Next the Brake Calipers are removed. The bolts are really tight so I pulled out the 24in Breaker Bar for the task. The Caliper can rest on the Spring for the remainder of the job.



Removing the Axle is very easy. Remove the 8 bolts holding it to the Hub and it slides right out.



Here I'm matching the Press Tools up to the Bearings and Seal before starting to remove the bearings.



This Hub was on the verge of leaking fluid. That is the old Emergency Brakes in the background and they are looking like oil is present just not much. Using a Seal Puller I popped out the Seal that came out with the Hub. The other 1/2 of the seal is still on the Spindle. I will remove it before polishing the Spindle where the seal rides. There is a retaining ring within the hub that needs removing first then using a Press I remove the Outer Bearing & Race in one action.



The Inner Race must be removed with a Punch. Numerous videos online show people using Steel to remove and install bearing races and that is a absolute NoNo! A Brass Drift should be the only tool to remove bearing races. This Drift you see in the picture was made by Cal-Van tools and I bought is in 1974 to do the wheel bearings on my first car.



Pressing the new parts in went quick.



So right where the Seal rides is some gunk, rust, who knows exactly what it is but I polished this Spindle well with Crocus Cloth and oiled it up well before installing the Hub.



The Bearings are still dry at this point but access to them is no problem so I will oil them both well before installing the Hub.



I first installed the new Brake Shoes & Hardware before installing the Hub. I would have liked to take more pictures but from here on out it's messy, and difficult. The hub is retained by a Spindle Locking Nut that adjusts the Bearing Runout and it is tightened to 52 foot/pounds while turning the Hub in the opposite direction. I still only have 2 hands so taking pictures was impossible. Once the Hub is properly torqued the Spindle Nut is backed off to the first Key Slot that lines up with the Key Slot in the Spindle. A square Key is inserted in the slot then a retainer is placed over the remaining threads. I slid the Rotor back and forth over the new Brake Shoes adjusting them out till I could just get the Rotor back on before installing the Tire.

Our TV went out the night before so we were at Sam's for 8am yesterday morning buying a replacement. Seems it's going to be one thing after another for a while longer.

Day versus Night No comparison to what it looked like before you started to repair it

Bon Temps!!

The body mounting area directly under where the tree landed was compressed. After installing the truck bed it was obvious, too obvious for me to let go.



After removing the Body Mtg Bolt in the Back and loosening the one in the center I jacked the body straight. With it looking good I measured the difference and needed a 3/8in spacer, rather large, to put between the Cab and Body Mount.



The mounting bolt was 1/2in so I drilled a 9/16in hole to make the bolt easier to stab. Jacked the Cab just a little higher to allow me to slip the newly made spacer in place.



Once secured I removed the jack before finishing tightening everything down.



Now I have a nice squared off truck body again.



I put the Camper Cap on it's dolly because it is the next thing in my Crosshairs.

Woo! Looking good. Almost done

You can see the TV packaging in the background. Crazy how cheap TV's have become. 65in Smart TV from Sam's $400

put the glass back in and it will look better than being on a new cars show room... Looks great John...