Way too complicated, I'll stick with roller painting with tractor paint, and then if I don't like the orange peel from that I can sand down the orange peel and get a Maaco paint job on top it all. Heck, it's only a Jeep, gotta look rugged anyway, right. dono![]()
I sanded and sprayed Raptor Liner on my Nissan Titan about 8 years ago instead of worrying about getting another paint job when the clearcoat and paint faded on the horizontal surfaces, with even a little surface rust in some areas that needed sanding and priming anyway. Aside from a few paint drips (first timer here) and a few small paint chips, it still looks pretty good in my opinion.
If I'm not at work or taking kids to their activities, you might find me on "The Rez" fishing. If not there, I could be in the garage working on my boat.
Does take forever to dry. Don't try sanding it in a day or two, you'll gum up your sand paper real quick.
Raptor Liner sound interesting. I'm always afraid of painting over unseen rust with thicker liner type paint, and having that rust fester underneath it all. My preference is to leave it accessible and treat it with other techniques including fluid film. But I'm talking about underneath and unseen area. Rhino liner on surface areas and the protection it offers is a great idea particularly for rough and tumble jeeps, right! Make it look military like!
Just a quick update the Roof is cured hard and back in the shop for welding prep. I hope to have it welded on by the weekend.
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I spent the better part of the day prepping either the Roof Pillars or Truck Cab Pillars for welding today. I used drop cut metal from the trimming process to install inside flanges to tie the two parts of the Cab back together. Since the cracker box MIG was short on start amps I'm using my Hobert Handler 210 with .024 filler wire in a spool gun to do the welding here. We had a scare with our Rat Terrier and had to run her to the vet and of course go back and pick her up so I'm waiting till tomorrow to weld the Roof on. Doing another picture post, you can see the progress.
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Pup turned out to have injured her neck and we can't figure out how.
The backing metals had to be riveted in due to the fit up earlier if I welded them in the puddle would prevent the roof from fully fitting. I watched a video yesterday of a guy using his Mini-X to pull the cab of a truck damaged like mine so after the roof is welded up on the front 4 pillars I'm going to try using my Backhoe to pull the back of the Cab back where it can be straightened. Stay Tuned.
After carefully working the replacement Roof onto the backing metal pieces in all 4 pillars the roof sat down well. Welding commenced. I've got to say it went very well, to make sure the CO2 had not settled to the bottom of the cylinder I removed the cylinder from the welding machine and rolled it back and forth across my shop floor to thoroughly remix the Argon/CO2 blend before beginning to weld. I put a new unopened spool of .030 steel filler wire in the gun, cleaned the MIG gun Barrel, replaced the tip and just overall got it ready for work. Another "Picture Post" so you can see the progress. I used a Copper Shoe to fill the gaps with or Bump welded the gaps I couldn't get the copper behind.
Now I can hang the rear passenger door on to line up the C Pillar.
I changed the name of the Thread to better reflect the description of the work within for google searches. It should bring more outside traffic to the site.
The inside welds are covered with plastic trim so I will be leaving a bit of extra metal on them for strength. The outside welds are being ground off one at a time between other work. My concentration on grinding so carefully won't last past one at a time.
I will use a punch to tap down any high spots then finish out just like I did the 3rd Brake light Shave job.
So fitting the doors on the driver's side went well. The gaps are ok to start till on the top of the door the door had a pinched spot I'm sure bent from the tree. I used a Heel Dolly and Body Hammer with a flat face to walk the metal back super straight.
Now the passenger side was terrible, I'm going to have to replace all the metal below the roof C-Pillar down below the side trim you see on the cab corner. Since it is three different layers of steel spot welded together I will have to skin out the outside first, cut out the inside and replace that metal first, then re-skin the outside again. On the drivers side I will just replace the section missing before re-skinning.
I couldn't figure out why my gap was bad then it hit me as the tree pushed down from the top it pushed the cab corner outward. Here I used my Porta-Power to bend the cab back into place. The bungees are to prevent the Ram Cylinder getting damaged if it popped loose while working.
The replacement door has to be completely stripped out. It looks like it's been in a warehouse for some time and other than a new window regulator even the glass is wrong. My door on the other hand rarely had the window open or was opened in general so I will be stripping it and moving everything, even the wiring over to the replacement door after painting. The glass in the replacement door is the wrong color my truck had the factory privacy tint and the glass I removed is green. EBay has the correct glass for $60 free shipping. I have the doors stripped but quit taking pictures, I was tired when I quit. Out of the shower with a glass of homemade wine by 8pm, long day yesterday I started at 6am.