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Thread: Tree Crushed 2500HD Silverado Crew Repair

  1. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by jjue1979 View Post
    Still cheaper than a new truck.
    I usually keep this truck inside but there was I time I didn't have the shops so the frame looks a bit rough. I'm planning on pressure washing what I can then coating with something just not sure what. Your thoughts on a frame coating since you work in the industry would be great. When the brake lines rusted out I put all stainless back except the line over the rearend. I have that line and will install it before reinstalling the truck bed.

  2. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rojo View Post
    I usually keep this truck inside but there was I time I didn't have the shops so the frame looks a bit rough. I'm planning on pressure washing what I can then coating with something just not sure what. Your thoughts on a frame coating since you work in the industry would be great. When the brake lines rusted out I put all stainless back except the line over the rearend. I have that line and will install it before reinstalling the truck bed.
    Unfortunately I’m not the best help here since I never dealt with paint plant or metal coatings, although I’m aware that Nissan Titan, NV, and Frontier frames are e-coated, and we also run the bodies and panels through e-coat. From when I worked for Tower Automotive, I think that Toyota used wax on their frames, although I could be wrong.

    As for a specific product for your use case without having to disassemble the truck down to bare frame to dip or spray, I’m not sure.


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  3. #123
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    Got it, no worries I will figure something out.

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    You can use POR paint for rust conversion to a black oxide an then you can overcoat with a durable urethane or trailer frame paint similar to what is used on 18 wheeler trailers in heavy salt conditions and harsh road conditions. You can use the POR paint on the whole frame and it will give a l long, lasting protection of the frame from rusting and corrosion. I do not believe a topcoat is necessary, but if you wanted for extra durability, you can overcoat with another type of product. This is what we did on an international scout restoration.


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  5. #125
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    Rust oleum makes a similar rust converter that can be either brushed on or sprayed with an HBP gun. We did not have to thin it down to use the HVLP gun. However, we did make sure the air was very dry and free of any oil you’re in bodywork. You know what I mean by having clean dryer for applying a paint product.


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  6. #126
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    Got it, both are good suggestions. I am going to make a call after pressure washing to see how the frame looks. No salt ever on this frame (I evacuated for Katrina with this truck) so mostly light surface stuff.

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    For what it's worth, my treatment for the rust is Ospho (phosphoric acid), and then Rustoleum Rust Reformer, then I paint it with a primer. I like it because of how thin the Ospho is, it's like water and soaks into all the cracks. Rust Reformer is thin too, but not quite as thin. Also, on the bottom sides of cars, and places you don't see, after I treat the rust areas as described above, I'll use Fluid Film. I use Fluid Film to protect these areas as it'll creep, even up hill lol! Might not be the best choice on all vehicles, but great for my Jeeps IMHO!
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  8. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slab View Post
    For what it's worth, my treatment for the rust is Ospho (phosphoric acid), and then Rustoleum Rust Reformer, then I paint it with a primer. I like it because of how thin the Ospho is, it's like water and soaks into all the cracks. Rust Reformer is thin too, but not quite as thin. Also, on the bottom sides of cars, and places you don't see, after I treat the rust areas as described above, I'll use Fluid Film. I use Fluid Film to protect these areas as it'll creep, even up hill lol! Might not be the best choice on all vehicles, but great for my Jeeps IMHO!
    I have some other posts to upload I will include a picture of the frame. For 24 years old it doesn't look bad to me. It's just I'm looking at it and before putting the bed back on doing something is better than just covering it up IMHO.
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  9. #129
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    Default Finished Closing Drivers Side C Pillar

    Finished up the sheet metal work. I got just a little off on the long welds and had to use the pick side of the body hammer to knock down the high spots 3 times before skimming got level.

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    Since I have never done this type of bodywork before I can live with the results.

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    I'm going to wait to prime this side till I have the last side done. The epoxy primer has a good pot life but not good enough to last a few days. I will put numerous coats on the outside and use a "Guide Coat" sanding primer highlighter so once I get level I will stop water sanding. The three high spots showing I thing the epoxy primer will level.

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    Here is a picture of the truck frame. For 24 years old it looks to be more dirty than rusty to me.
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  10. #130
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    I see why you want to treat the surface rust on the frame since we Mississippians aren’t used to see so much rust on a vehicle, and you might as well try something while he bed is off the frame. It still looks good for 20+ years; I’ve had Michigan visitors comment how rust free our older vehicles look because we don’t use road salt.
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