Thread: Fruit, Nut, and Vine Grafting, Tree Propagation, Tree Care

I’ll make sure you get I-258. I also have those mulberry cuttings I’m starting this year too.

I discovered some but not all of the fig trees I kept in pots over winter were suffering from root rot from the previous growing season. Growing mediums for potting flowers, vegetables, & herbs really is not the optimum medium for growing fig trees in long term around here. Too warm nights along with periods of daily rains promotes mold & rot. Today I re-potted a few fig trees trying a different approach to the drainage issue, the "root" cause of root rot pun intended.



I rolled down to Lowes and bought some irregular shaped drainage rocks. The trees I rooted last year had strong enough roots and trunks to simply lift them out of the pots. Afterwards I added a few inches of these rocks before adding a highly augmented-high drainage soil then returning the tree back into the pot.



The same soil mixture was used to fill in the gaps along the sides of the pots although the gaps may help with keeping the soil moist but not wet.



I had hoped to have 12 Fig trees on the concrete but two broke due to weak root systems. Those will survive but will be delayed a bit re-rooting before breaking dormancy. Drainage is super important with potted fig trees. I am planning to weld a T-Handle spike to press holes all the way thru the root balls to assist in the introduction of air to the roots and provide a path for excess water to drain to the bottom. Sitting these pots on the dirt seals up the bottom holes and the potting soil that has broke down to mud seals the side holes. The rocks will prevent both from happening.

NEEM Oil is OUT! neem oil is snake oil in my book. I have purchased the best quality 70% Neem Oil. The best quality. Used it for the last 5 years on my Stone fruit trees & Citrus as it is sold a the CURE All, Nope! It has sun scalded the blooms on my trees year after year. At first I applied lightly, then as disease damage kept increasing or what I thought was disease damage I applied a little heavier. It never worked as a organic pesticide, never worked as a miticide, or a organic fungicide, just worked like you would expect Snake Oil to work. Well is sun scaled all the blooms, some of the wood like the Peach trees only fruit on the previous years new growth, it killed all the new growth. Now I'm 14 miles from the Gulf of America and this stuff is labeled for Summer use too. Though I never applied except in late Fall to Winter it doesn't wash or wear off just keeps building up. Anyway if you made it this far just look at the blooms, all the way to the tips of these trees. And the Honey Bees are working overtime. We will set fruit for sure this year, buckets of fruit.





I will have to set my camera quality up now that we have high speed internet. The bees are hard to see but they are buzzing all over.

I could see some bees. Guess it’s a good thing I haven’t bought and need oil. I started majority of my fig cuttings for the year today. Only one I-258.

Originally Posted by SuperDave336

I could see some bees. Guess it’s a good thing I haven’t bought and need oil. I started majority of my fig cuttings for the year today. Only one I-258.

Immunoix from Spectracide it where you want to prevent fungus disease from killing your flowers. Rust and Brown Rot just melts the Peach blooms off the trees. Another application will be done today as Tuesday is another rain event. Apply when the limbs are dry and a day or better before a rain event. Gives you about 2 weeks of coverage from fungus infection. The different stages of swelling before the flowers open is how you judge application along with weather forecasts.

I posted preparing these Fig tree cuttings for rooting on February 21 of this year Just 16 days ago. Check out the roots already grown on these 7 now little Fig trees.



I don't know a faster way to root Fig tree cuttings than the Fig Pop method. Still no roots showing on the hardwood fruit tree cuttings but it has been only 16 days. I potted up the Fig trees to speed growth.



Preparing the cuttings the way I do makes them root all the way around not just in one or two spots. I bought the Smith fig and it had one root on a 45 degree angle which grew in a 180 degree shape creating a very weak tree root system. It never had a real chance at being a strong tree with the one big root. These have numerous roots so these little trees will anchor very well. The other Fig tree Conadria variety is a very good producer of early figs, not as tasty as some of the others but very tasty baked.

I haven’t checked my figs that I did fig pop on yet. I do have one mulberry showing roots that I did that method on. Yours look good and strong.

Originally Posted by SuperDave336

I haven’t checked my figs that I did fig pop on yet. I do have one mulberry showing roots that I did that method on. Yours look good and strong.

The thickness of the cuttings makes a big difference on rooting speed. No holes in the bags this time either. Waxed the tops of the Scions too. 16 days is still super fast for the amount of roots.