Thread: Updating and Upgrading My Skeeter F-80 Strada

ForeSure going to have to remember this method. If I can get it straight in my head now, lol...I'll reread it a few dozen times and right it down.

Originally Posted by Jamesdean

ForeSure going to have to remember this method. If I can get it straight in my head now, lol...I'll reread it a few dozen times and right it down.

Posting these procedures takes a bit of thought to try to write accurate directions. Some of my posting needs re-reading anyway as I had trouble writing the directions to start with. If you maintain a parallel transducer at the speed you want to sidescan you get the best return possible. Your cockpit deck is the best place to put a level, btw is needs to be a long level, 4ft or longer. The transducer can't be tilted up or down. I have found 3mph is my best speed for a noisy hull (lots of trapped air bubbles passing under the hull). The air bubbles disrupt the sonar causing a interference overlay on the screen. My E-Tec charging system, a 3-phase power that the engine systems run on (not the charging coil for the battery) makes so much noise when I turn the key off the screens clear way up.

I used to use the level and washer method until I realized my Lowrance units give you pitch and roll data. I go another step and level mine side to side as well. That may be difficult with your transducer, Lowrance transducers are mounted on the bottom of a metal bracket so it is easy to get side to side level.

Originally Posted by speckfinder

I used to use the level and washer method until I realized my Lowrance units give you pitch and roll data. I go another step and level mine side to side as well. That may be difficult with your transducer, Lowrance transducers are mounted on the bottom of a metal bracket so it is easy to get side to side level.

I used a 6ft straight edge aligning the bottom outside corners and that 3ft straight edge too to get the Transverse level on the transducer. These older boats are off handmade blanks, not true to the cap seams so I always work from the bottom of the hull corners checking midway with the chines to get my side to side level. The displacement is always measurable that way.

To keep this deck as "clean" as possible I am mounting the Humminbird Mega Live on a Hand Control trolling motor to eliminate the extra pole. I added a additional seat base well up on the bow so I can get tighter to the structure I'm fishing. I bump the structure with the trolling motor at times fishing tight as I can't see how close the foot is to the tree. Also I'm fishing 14ft poles and can drop 2ft of jig pole if I'm 2ft closer. This offset seat pin is the same as the one I have in my Tin boat. I really like that I can rotate it forward or backwards as needed moving the seat forward when needed. These hand control trolling motors have reverse so the way I have it figured I can maintain forward direction on the Mega Live Transducer but reverse out to keep from hitting the tree.



I offset the seat base just a little to Stbd so I can use a extra long Ram D Mount that Bon Temps has for me. This will have a Helix 10 Mega G4N mounted to it.

Originally Posted by Rojo

I used a 6ft straight edge aligning the bottom outside corners and that 3ft straight edge too to get the Transverse level on the transducer. These older boats are off handmade blanks, not true to the cap seams so I always work from the bottom of the hull corners checking midway with the chines to get my side to side level. The displacement is always measurable that way.

I almost always fish alone, so my boat is a little starboard side heavy at idle speed. I duplicate the pitch and roll (from the Lowrance) in the garage and level the ducer both ways to that.

Originally Posted by speckfinder

I almost always fish alone, so my boat is a little starboard side heavy at idle speed. I duplicate the pitch and roll (from the Lowrance) in the garage and level the ducer both ways to that.

I rig my boats for just myself fishing so like this Skeeter the fuel tank is weighted to Port, heavier stuff weighted to Port like the trolling motor, gear, etc. Lithium batteries are Centerline all to keep the boat level while I'm doing the 3mph Sidescans. We do what we can right to get the best returns on the Sonar screen.

The little Skeeter is naked on the rear now so I'm moving the 90ETEC to it.



To pull the ETEC I first have to remove the Hydraulic steering Hoses from the Ram. The hydraulic steering is going with the engine to the Skeeter.



Here as I disconnect a steering hose I insert a golf tee and use Scotch 33+ electrical tape (best for this) to seal the tee in the end of the hose so I can remove the hose without oil getting everywhere.



I marked the Port hose with Red electrical tape before disconnecting. Once disconnected and sealed I wrap extra thick Teflon tape around the female port on the Steering Ram before lightly screwing a #6JIC cap on to keep the Ram oil inside. The threads DO NOT Match so finger tight ONLY. This also keeps excess air from entering the Ram making bleeding much easier later.



Now I can unbolt the engine using the rolling Engine Hoist and roll the 90ETEC to the Skeeter.



When bolting a engine on without battery power to use the Trim & Tilt to align the Engine Bracket to the Hull raising or lowering the Tongue Jack helps to get the 2 mounting surfaces level.



All I'm doing for now that the 90ETEC is bolted on the Skeeter as I have to strip the rest of the Steering & Controls off the old Blazer to move to the Skeeter.



With the freeze on the way my old Blazer needs to be moved outside under that covered parking area to make room for the citrus & fig trees again.