Thread: Ford Guru Needed

Well the not so fun begins...Just got my truck back from getting a Diagnostic done, that didn't really tell me nothing new. Going to the shop this morning, it shifted just like it was supposed to do. So, I recon, I'll use it as long as it's running ok. Mechanic said, well, it evidently has a short, or bad ground somewhere., but you'll need to buy a new trans and have it put in, and that will cost you $4000.00. AHHH, no it wont...

Gonna be tracing wires down between the transmission and the computer. Why do I think it's not going to begood on my bum knee. Dr did say don't become a couch potato, and exercise my Quads before the surgery. Some how don't think she ment to crawl around under this truck though...

(QUOTE)"Mechanic said, well, it evidently has a short, or bad ground somewhere., but you'll need to buy a new trans and have it put in,"(UNQUOTE)

Sounds like you need a new mechanic!!! How is installing a new tranny going to find a short in wiring?

Originally Posted by wannabe fisherman

(QUOTE)"Mechanic said, well, it evidently has a short, or bad ground somewhere., but you'll need to buy a new trans and have it put in,"(UNQUOTE)

Sounds like you need a new mechanic!!! How is installing a new tranny going to find a short in wiring?

Yep, when I got my chin off the floor from him making that statement, That was my question exactly...His reply was just as dumb to me...Well we have to know the trans is good to start with. I said, well, give me my keys, here's your $90.00 which I really didn't think they did anything for, and I brought my OLD truck home. Again, it shifted like it was supposed to....Don't know, but bet your bottom dollar, as long as it's mine, it wont darken that garage door again...

With the battery hooked up, do a voltage drop test between the negative post (not the cable) and the motor and another one to the chassis. This will verify that all your grounds are good. Readings should be near 0. YouTube has some very good videos on how to do this if you need help. FYI, a voltage drop test is the cadillac of tests for electrical problems.

Originally Posted by Barnacle Bill

With the battery hooked up, do a voltage drop test between the negative post (not the cable) and the motor and another one to the chassis. This will verify that all your grounds are good. Readings should be near 0. YouTube has some very good videos on how to do this if you need help. FYI, a voltage drop test is the cadillac of tests for electrical problems.

Thank you Barnacle Bill, This is the kind of help needed. I don't know a lot about mechanic's, though I try. I'll check out youtube as I'm thinking it's three wires needed to check the grounds, or do you use the two, and check the neg. to motor and then the neg. to chassis?. Thank you for the help.
Should it actually be the trans needed, I sure am not takin' it to them folks. A E4OD trans can be had, REMAN for 2990.00 free shipping and core return shipping off the internet, including a new Torque converter. And I can get my SIL to come help put it in....

I know I may be late to this "party" but I'm gonna post this up anyway, for those that are not in the know

on the older Fords (OBD1) you dont need a code scanner, and as you've found out some of them won't even pick up a code if the CEL is on, as some of the readers are not programmed correctly to read OBD1 codes (usually only obd2). Kind of stupid if you ask me but we also have to understand that Ford didn't make that code reader, and most of the time the people who did are chevy boys...anyway...

There should always be a code, even if the CEL is OFF....code 111 if it's a 3 digit system, or 11 if it is 2 digit. I "believe" that 95's were 3 digit. Code 111 is "all clear".

If the CEL is on, there is a hard code stored.

How to retrieve trouble codes from Ford's EEC-IV with a paper-clip - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

Use the instructions at FTE (linked) and then do a code dump. Be aware than you will get a ECT code if the engine is not up to operating temp. This is considered normal.

There is actually quite a bit that can be done using a paper clip, check hard codes, stored codes, and you can also do a cylinder balance test..though if it's running ok, it's not necessary. Let's just keep it simple. When you turn the key on after putting the paperclip in, it will dump the hard (current) codes first. You will have to look closely to make SURE you have the 3 digit system, as Ford changed from 2 to 3 digit in 94 or 95 (I don't remember which vehicles and exactly when). Just watch the CEL flashes, and write them down on a piece of paper as they flash.

You can unplug the shift solenoid pack and it'll stay in 2nd..that's normal...but illustrates that there could very well be a fault in the wiring between the ECU and the transmission. Rats can and often do eat wires. I bought a brand new 22 mustang in 2022 and parked it at the house in the garage the night I bought it home. Next morning, check engine light on. I raised the hood, and found where rats ate some wires on top of the engine....yes it was cold out. That's when we see the most rodents in engine bays. I hate them! Generally speaking you should have at least a stored code if it won't shift out of 2nd, maybe a code 618 or whatever. But dump the codes with a paperclip and see what you have...most of the time it'll point you in the right direction.