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Thread: Oil for 2 stroke 2008 mercury efi

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Snubby View Post
    Me personally I use OEM oil and filters in anything I own. I bet a lot will scoff at this comment, but come challenge me on anything that I own. That's alot of vehicles (company & personal) plus enough equipment and boats to fill a warehouse. Cheap insurance in my simple mind.

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    I agree. Snubbt does have a simple mind. Bwahahahahah. I couldn’t resist. I always ran penzoil synthetic blend.

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  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by crappiejim View Post
    why remove the vro?
    I had a V-6 Looper 225 that kept burning a piston. I had it apart fixing it once again and this time I took the VRO apart too. While looking at something else the VRO jumped on the table all by itself. What happened was the Diaphragm plunger that is returned by a big spring was stuck when I split the body apart, I didn't notice it. Well sitting on the table it freed itself making the whole unit jump. I had a friend that had a machine shop back in the day. I built quite a few outboards then, he did all my work. When you walked into his shop 95% of the blocks on the floor were OMC. He told me once, We all drive new cars, all the equipment and this building is paid for, I have 2 camps both paid for, my house is paid for, my kids go to the most expensive private schools, all paid for by VRO. I Never ran another VRO unit on a engine I built to this day.
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  3. #13
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    One my 91' Evinrude I ran out of OEM 2 stroke oil a couple summers back. I started running Wal Mart Super Tech that was TCW-3 rated. After a couple of tanks of fuel I could hear a ticking sound coming from the engine. Asked around on BBC and no definite answers on the cause. Started running Evinrude / Johnson oil again and the problem was resolved almost immediately. Now I order online from Academy and go pick up at the store. I have used Penzoil (still have a unopened gallon) before and didn't notice the ticking. I will never use Super Tech again in that motor. I believe I was very close to having a serious issue!
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  4. #14
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    I’ve been running quicksilver in my yamaha. I don’t know of anyone local who has yamalube. Always heard quicksilver spoken very highly of by the bass boat guys, said it had a good additive package. But the more I think on this, I will probably order some yamalube next time.
    I have been ordering yamaha ring free already, so what the heck. I do like using oem stuff. And I burn through less than a gallon a year of oil so really no excuse. A normal trip for me is 20 minutes outboard run time at +- 3500 rpm, and 6-8 hours on the trolling motor Oil for 2 stroke 2008 mercury efi


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  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by J White View Post
    I’ve been running quicksilver in my yamaha. I don’t know of anyone local who has yamalube. Always heard quicksilver spoken very highly of by the bass boat guys, said it had a good additive package. But the more I think on this, I will probably order some yamalube next time.
    I have been ordering yamaha ring free already, so what the heck. I do like using oem stuff. And I burn through less than a gallon a year of oil so really no excuse. A normal trip for me is 20 minutes outboard run time at +- 3500 rpm, and 6-8 hours on the trolling motor Oil for 2 stroke 2008 mercury efi
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    Bud I never repaired a scored piston in a engine running Quicksilver. That being said the Ring Free Plus - best money anyone can spend on their engine. I have seen it unstick old Crossflow rings, gummed in with time. Super stuff! The Plus has stabilizer added. My number one recommended additive. I believe it will double the life of a 2 Stroke. 4 stroke I can't say that. I run & build 2 strokes only. Repair 4 strokes (big Yamahas 250+HP).
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  6. #16
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    A sticky ring dose is 5 times the normal amount. Run the engine for a few minutes till the thermostat opens then let it sit for a week. usually by the 3rd week the compression comes way up (stuck rings or low compression to start with).
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  7. #17
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    i went ahead and got the quicksilver..

  8. #18
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    First of all,,, the VRO engines are run by a nylon type of gear that runs off the crank. Once that gears goes bad , the engines gets damaged and it’s a huge repair ,,,Bad engineering imho. ,, by doing away with the mixing you bypass the VRO and are dedicated to mixing your own fuel from that point on. The mercury engine are bulletproof really once they do that,,, it’s just 2 strokes engines are not made for idol ing around the lake at 2.0 mph,,, they,, like dirt bikes like to rev and run at higher speeds where they run the cleanest,,,
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  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Takeum View Post
    First of all,,, the VRO engines are run by a nylon type of gear that runs off the crank. Once that gears goes bad , the engines gets damaged and it’s a huge repair ,,,Bad engineering imho. ,, by doing away with the mixing you bypass the VRO and are dedicated to mixing your own fuel from that point on. The mercury engine are bulletproof really once they do that,,, it’s just 2 strokes engines are not made for idol ing around the lake at 2.0 mph,,, they,, like dirt bikes like to rev and run at higher speeds where they run the cleanest,,,
    Good post. Most tuners never spend the time to change the Air Bleeds in the idle circuits to fine tune the idle. 60 Degree & Looper engines have the air bleeds right in front, very easy to swap. No Mercury engines this far south, OMC & Yamaha only.

  10. #20
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    just because an oil is tcw3 rated doesn't mean it has the same amount or same additives as other oils. I run the manufacturers recomended oil as I think it gives the motor what they think it needs and why save a couple bucks and take a chance on a 20,000.00 motor.

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