Thread: Grease trailer lugs?

The engineers that write the specs have never had to remove an old , corroded fastner.

Originally Posted by Dutchman

The engineers that write the specs have never had to remove an old , corroded fastner.

RIGHT ON...... I look at it like there is a difference between engineering and real life. I have turned enough wrenches to know there is a difference.

I hope the experts on this thread did not find my comments offensive the other day. I was a bit frustrated because I had just completed a bearing grease/seal replacement on a 20011 tandem axle boat trailer. The lug studs had never been treated, and a couple of them were gaulded. I saw this thread as soon as I sat down , and reacted in stage 1 thinking . Their advice is always sound , and I always appreciate it . Normally , I am on the side of the manufacture, or industry standard . I know they have done countless hours of research in most cases. Had I saw this thread any other time , I probably would not have made those comments . But until I have a bad experience with the procedure I use , I will continue with my method. If someone is not experienced with anti seize , then it is probably best to follow industry specs. 1 thing I bet we can agree on is don't let the high school kid at the tire shop run a impact on your lug studs�� . I think they have damaged more threads than Mother Nature ever has !!

Dutchman no problem there are times common sense out rules engineering, If engineers were always right there would never be recalls.

Originally Posted by Dutchman

I hope the experts on this thread did not find my comments offensive the other day. I was a bit frustrated because I had just completed a bearing grease/seal replacement on a 20011 tandem axle boat trailer. The lug studs had never been treated, and a couple of them were gaulded. I saw this thread as soon as I sat down , and reacted in stage 1 thinking . Their advice is always sound , and I always appreciate it . Normally , I am on the side of the manufacture, or industry standard . I know they have done countless hours of research in most cases. Had I saw this thread any other time , I probably would not have made those comments . But until I have a bad experience with the procedure I use , I will continue with my method. If someone is not experienced with anti seize , then it is probably best to follow industry specs. 1 thing I bet we can agree on is don't let the high school kid at the tire shop run a impact on your lug studs�� . I think they have damaged more threads than Mother Nature ever has !!

I don't think anybody claimed to be an EXPERT on this subject !!! but I do know there was 2 Gentlemen that expressed some good knowledge learned thru their years of EXPERIENCE that disagreed with using stuff on lugs or anything to be torqued with specs !!! and 2 men have probably forgotten more then most of the people who posted on this subject !!! including myself and I ain't no spring chicken by long shot !!!

I can't speak for others, however I am a quality engineer and have worked for an OEM at the test facility. One of the labs specifically tested bolted joints. I have also worked part time in a service center, and wrench on my own junk. In fact right now I have a stuck upper tilt/trim hydraulic piston pin on my tiller motor. Let me clarify a few mis-statements in this thread.
1) Engineers do wrench on their own junk.
2) Engineers know more about bolted joints than you can imagine, they also have reams of data, statistics to support their research.
3) NEVER EVER put any lubricant on lug nuts, EVER!!!!

I have seen cars come in the shop on the back of a flatbed with a tire missing, lost on the highway. Every stud destroyed in one fashion or another. Cause, anti-seize applied at another low cost national chain shop. $50 a tire to replace 20 studs.

Bolted joints hold due to the torque/tension. The torque stretches the threads on the bolt to a engineered predetermined expansion/tension combination. Adding lubricant changes the tension required to achieve the proper torque. You can tighten the lugs "smartly" as indicated earlier in the thread. However, you haven't achieved the proper torque or stretch and could lose your wheel, and according to Murphy at the worst possible time.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kqYF3G6GT8w

The only place to put anti-seize on wheels is the face of the hub between the studs, not on the studs, on the metal plate between them. This is where the rust bond if formed holding the tire to the "rotor". I could go on, however the wife needs water.

Man.... And I thought that I could go off on a rant !!! This "Quality Engineer " has me beat by a long shot .

Originally Posted by Dutchman

Man.... And I thought that I could go off on a rant !!! This "Quality Engineer " has me beat by a long shot .

I have first hand knowledge of the subject. Seen the testing, the test results, and real world problems with lubricants on lug nuts. It is extremely dangerous. Is it a rant if your stating facts?