Thread: Recommend me a weedless jighead.

Originally Posted by CrappiePappy

I concur, Grousefly can make weedless jigheads in about any form you can think of



He's been making them for me for almost 15yrs, and I may have been the one that started him making the Y guard style. I've used the Y guard style weedless jighead for close to 15yrs, and with 4lb & 6lb mono on everything from micro light to light action rods & never had a problem securely sticking fish (even fish 30ft deep).

My preferred jighead is a 1/16oz ball head with #2 Aberdeen hook & a clear Y weed guard ... but I've also used and had success with black Y weed guards & #4 Aberdeen hooks, as well as the clear fiber brush style weed guards.

... cp

How effective do you think the weed guards are for vertical jigging brush?

Originally Posted by smoothlures

How effective do you think the weed guards are for vertical jigging brush?

Just as effective as they are for cast & slow retrieve !! And more effective than a plain jighead, since you can drop the weedless jig right DOWN IN the brush and still expect to get the jig back out, without hanging up, over 95% of the time. IMHO

In fact, the last time I went fishing I vertical jigged at around 25' deep ... something I rarely do, but it was the "only way" to get bit at the time. Also .... My last trip to Tenn, last Fall, I found the fish to be at 25-30ft deep ... and in the tops of deadfalls. Vertical jigging was the only viable presentation then, too. In both cases, fish were caught and few jigs were lost to snagging. No fish were lost, once hooked, due to the weedguard (if that's your concern). And yes, you can snag a weedless jig ... but, it's a rare occurrence. Sometimes the jig can be pulled free, sometimes not.

I generally know (feel) when the jighead makes contact with a branch ... there's no "thump" and the rod tip bends down & stays that way. When that happens I drop the rod tip down about 6" and then lift the rod tip about 12" (all in one smooth motion). That usually causes the jighead to bounce over the limb ... whereas a steady pull usually just sinks the hook into the wood, since a slow/steady pull allows the jig to roll over, and the weight of the hook turns the jig upside down. Yanking on it (with the rod) isn't much better, and usually ends in a hung jig about 90% of the time.

They're called "weed-less" .... not "snag-less" ... for a reason. But, they are a whole lot more "snag-less" than an open hook jig.

... cp

I just received my order from Grousefly and love them. I got 50 1/32 #2 sickle with brush guard and 50 with the "Y" guard. Both work great I have no personal preference except if I'm tying hair jigs with them, then I use the "Y" guard as it's easier to bend out the way while tying and then return it back to it's proper place.
"gene"

Grousefly, ever made any 1/4 oz. weed less heads?

Originally Posted by blue-jig

Grousefly, ever made any 1/4 oz. weed less heads?

I'm sure he has, "blue-jig" ... he makes Bass lures, too. PM him for specifics.

... cp

I also use Grouseflys weedless jigs with both fiber and Y guards, 50% of the time I cast and slow roll the jig back but still get hung occationally I am going to try this later this week......

I generally know (feel) when the jighead makes contact with a branch ... there's no "thump" and the rod tip bends down & stays that way. When that happens I drop the rod tip down about 6" and then lift the rod tip about 12" (all in one smooth motion). That usually causes the jighead to bounce over the limb ... whereas a steady pull usually just sinks the hook into the wood, since a slow/steady pull allows the jig to roll over, and the weight of the hook turns the jig upside down. Yanking on it (with the rod) isn't much better, and usually ends in a hung jig about 90% of the time.

They're called "weed-less" .... not "snag-less" ... for a reason. But, they are a whole lot more "snag-less" than an open hook jig.

... cp

I've never used a jig with a weed guard. I toss a live minnow on a #6 gold hook under a slip cork into some wood. If I don't get bit, it gets hung and I have to straighten the hook with braid to get it back. Frustrating. I would love to be able to dip a jig down into some laydowns and have some chance of getting it back out. What would be best for me. We have tons of blown down trees on the river banks. Moving water makes it really hard to get into and out of. Will a Y guard allow me to drop it straight down and maybe get it back? Thanks,

Originally Posted by Ranger690

I've never used a jig with a weed guard. I toss a live minnow on a #6 gold hook under a slip cork into some wood. If I don't get bit, it gets hung and I have to straighten the hook with braid to get it back. Frustrating. I would love to be able to dip a jig down into some laydowns and have some chance of getting it back out. What would be best for me. We have tons of blown down trees on the river banks. Moving water makes it really hard to get into and out of. Will a Y guard allow me to drop it straight down and maybe get it back? Thanks,

Yes, Dayton .... it will most likely "come back" through the tree limbs a lot more often than an exposed hook. I've bent the #2 Aberdeen hooks on my Grousefly custom made weedless jigs, with 6lb Vicious Panfish copoly line ... and rarely give it a thought when the jig is hung on my outfit spooled with 10/2 PowerPro braid.

If you're just intent on tipping the jighead with a minner, you might want to start with a #4 bronze Aberdeen on it (unless you're using some seriously TINY minners ) .... I did, back when I was using 4# test mono, and still bent the #4 hook open on quite a few occasions.

... cp