Thread: What I'm considering...

Biggest thing I would look at..... Pull the drain plug on the lower unit and check to see if there is water in the lower unit oil. I notice you are from Illinois, so if that motor sat outside with water in the lower unit, chances are, it froze at one point in time. Not a show stopper but you may have a lot more work involved in rebuilding the lower unit.

As for the 25hp/30 decal. Back in the 60's and 70's, Johnson/Evinrude (came off the same assembly line) would come out with motors that were identicle with the exception of the carberator. In other words, if you had a 9.9 hp motor and cover, it was the same as a 15hp with the exception of a smaller carberator. This might explain why you have a 25hp vin with a 30hp decal (or entire cowal). Chances are, someone changed the cowal years ago.. if not, you may have a 30hp carb on it as a lot of people changed them out years ago. It was cheaper to buy a 25hp and a 30hp carb then to buy the 30hp motor outright.

You said "convert it to fit" I am not sure what you mean? Is it a long shank motor vice a short shank? If that is the case, you can simply purchase (or build one yourself) a jack plate that will raise the motor up from the back of your transom.

Factor in a set of coils on that old a motor also. Converting, I assume it has the controls since it is on a toon.( might have to buy new cables because of length but not that expensive) Stick steer conversion would be cheaper than having to buy new parts to make it a tiller motor. If you found one like it already tiller and could buy cheap because it was blown might be different story. Here is a link to stick steering setup.
ON SALE!! Ezy Glide stick steering systems and cables in stock.

Light bulb moment there Cray. Completely forgot about it being a toon and being console steering.

I have stick steer and really like it. Your boat with a 25 would be just right for that. On your restricted lakes it wouldn't be a great big deal to disconnect and remove the 25 and install the 9.9 if you fished them enough. I wouldn't want to do it often but is doable. If you could get that motor for say 350.00 and spend a few more on it you would have a good motor worth the money. Those were some tough,really good motors. Almost never break and simple to work on. If you got the serial number go to IBoats and look up your parts break down. It will show you what is avaliable and cost. That way you can figure in your total cost if you decide to buy. If you can do the work fine, if not then you would need to factor in labor cost also. Good luck.

Thanks, Cray. I was hoping you would weigh in on this as you always seem to have good advice. I actually misspoke-the motor is a 1990, not 1970. Is that still a good vintage? I talked to the guy who owns the lake where the 'toon is located, and he said that the motor ran decent until last year when the owner just quit using it. It did set outside all winter with the motor raised-not sure if he tried to drain water out of the leg or not. I may offer the guy $200 for it and see if he bites.

If it's a 90 model it should be worth the well worth the money. Parts easier to find. Ignition parts and electronics a little more sofisticated if trying to work on it yourself. If lower unit didn't freeze and crack gear housing it shouldn't be bad. May only need lower unit oil change, water pump kit and carb cleaning with plugs. I would say it would be worth the 500.00 if no real damage is evident. I can't say it's any better than the older motor but quiter,more fuel efficient and probably more torque, easier to find parts.

that's what I like about crappie forum..it seems that there`s some very experienced people here willing to give anyone a helping hand,,,how awesome is that...thanks to all the people that helps people...