Thread: Charle Brewer Slider Help

If you're using the Charlie Brewers weedless jig head I like to just skin hook on the side of the body so there's less material to penetrate . I use six pound test and a buggy whip for a rod I usually don't have problems with hook ups. I also sharpen all my hooks a leftover from my bass fishing days

I have been field testing the Charlie Brewers and have not had problems losing a fish from a hook set.
I use a 1/32 #6 weighted jig hook and I do not thread the slider tube body the full hook shank length, making sure I have all of the hook from the shank (start of the curve) to the barb exposed outside the tube body.

With regular tubes, I have had larger fish out swim a good hook set and get out in front of me catching up the line slack and getting off. They are slick at getting off if you give them half the chance.

Gave the sliders a try again today and they seemed to work OK. I had one out of 4 get off, but that is the same result almost with conventional jigs last trip. To me I have to think to make a good hook set even if the fish is pulling hard. Seems like sometimes they will bite and pull so hard that you would swear the hook was set, but it's not deep enough. Couldn't catch a bite on the regular triple tail today.

What color were they hitting today?
If you're still having problems with hook ups you might try flaring your hook if you don't already do so

This might help too

I think I pretty much had it right today. I went back and watched the video of Mr. Charlie showing how to rig it weedless and it seemed to work pretty good.

Something else you can try if you don't already do it is, run hook point completely thorough the body until the barb comes out then back it into the body until it's wheedles. Gives it less restiance when setting the hook.

Cray. picture if possible. Thanks for starting this thread mermentau. I have all but given up using them because of poor hook sets. I might have to try again.