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Thread: Flicker Shad

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
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    Iowa
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    Quote Originally Posted by specseeker View Post
    Tommy thanks for the follow up. Not that we are any experts by any means but we have had real good success fishing between 25 and 50 ft during the months of Nov - Jan in lakes we fish in TX, LA and MO. We find that most of the fish relating in the water column between 15 ft deep to the bottom with most of the active larger fish within 1 - 4 ft from the bottom. We use a modified form of spider rigging that we call sliding. The rod holders are the same placement on the bow with a complete set up on the back of the boat and if we are carrying a third person we will have another set up on the side. The equipment is simple. We use an inexpensive 5' 6"Med Action Yellow Eagle Claw rod with an Abu 5500 C3 spooled with Vicious 8 lb fluorocarbon. Each rod is rigged with a #214 hook with a split shot approx. 8" above the hook and a1/4oliding bullet weight above that. Each is baited with a minnow an we free pool the bait to the bottom. Once on the bottom we will fish the bait 1 - 3 cranks on the reel off the bottom. After locating fish I will put a 30 lb anchor off the bow using 1/4" nylon rope. I use a spool that holds 750 feet. I will slowly side back on the rope until someone gets a bite . I will hold until a couple of minutes passes without a bite and then continue to slide back. If we hit a particular spot that was productive but went quiet I will put a trotline clip on it and continue the slide When I run out of fish on the locator I will pull us back towards the anchor and when I comeback to a clip I will tie off and the boat will settle back over the productive spot. If we get back to the anchor and it was a good line we might run that same line again and again. Otherwise I will pick up the anchor if the area is productive move over 30 ft and drop it and run a new line. Most of the fish we find active will be between a 3 ft differential 25-28, 31-34, etc. This method allows us to fish slow and accurately and has served us well. Another benefit is that it has made us much better at identifying some small vey good structure that we have a saved as waypoint that I don't think we would have identified if we would have been moving quicker. We are lucky to fish with a group of folks that share these little hotspots. Just thought I'd share a little success and hope it helps someone catch a few more for the freezer. God Bless!
    That is incredible specseeker - In fact - I would call that "surgically removing specks!" Just an FYI - the 5500 Line Counters have been Disco'd - Leaving only the bigger 6500 LC in the line-up. Also., using a Minn Kota on Spot Lock could work for you - allowing less anchor pulling and setting? Maybe? Just a thought. Again - that is great info and if you ask me - expert advice as well!!!!
    Take a senior or a kid fishing soon!

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Missouri
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    Tommy our boats are outfitted with Terrova I-Pilot Link trolling motors and they work well on calm days but on windy days the movement and correction of the Spot Lock feature is to dramatic and the presentation needs to be more subtle and the rope gives us the needed stability to keep the boat from swinging so wildly. You're right about these old bones jerkin on the 30 lb anchor as that gets old fast and that is why we have a 40 lb Minn Kota auto anchor on the bow and use it when fishing on steeper contour because the rope capacity is pretty small on the units. We have not found any other way to eliminate the rope when fishing across large deep water flats. The 5500C3 reels are not the line counter models just the standard ones. We use the 6500L C3 line counter reels when puling the crank baits. Thanks for the come backs and we would be interested in any advice you might share on pulling cranks cause we have just started up with it.
    Likes Tommy Skarlis LIKED above post

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    kearney, mo
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    Spec seeker that is some incredible information you shared. Thank you
    Likes Tommy Skarlis, Yodibuzz, bdunn3 LIKED above post

  4. #14
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    Oct 2013
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    Iowa
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    Another thing to remember about crankbaits is to keep them tuned so that they run perfectly true. Most anglers BEND the metal eye coming out of the bill of the crank too forcefully and it ends up like oversteering on ice (maybe not a good analogy with all of our Southern friends who haven't had the pleasure to drive on ice much)

    I "tweak" the eye in the direction that I want the bait to correct itself. I put one of the needle-nose-plier "arms" on the wire eye and the other "arm" on the side of the bill of the crankbait. I believe I did a youtube on it - but I am having trouble finding it right now.
    Take a senior or a kid fishing soon!

  5. #15
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    Jan 2008
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    I'm wondering which of those Off Shore Tadpole diving weights at 2-3 mph would it take to get various Flicker Shad down to 50'?

    thanks
    fair weather

  6. #16
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    Oct 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by fair weather View Post
    I'm wondering which of those Off Shore Tadpole diving weights at 2-3 mph would it take to get various Flicker Shad down to 50'?

    thanks
    fair weather
    Maybe the Magnum Tadpole would be your answer:

    Here are the dive curves with 20# Monofilament: Off Shore Tackle | Official Web Site OR36 Magnum with Mono

    And the dive curves with 40# Braid: Off Shore Tackle | Official Web Site OR36 Magnum with Braid

    All of the Tadpole Dive Curves can be found at: Off Shore Tackle | Official Web Site OR3
    Take a senior or a kid fishing soon!

  7. #17
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    Dec 2010
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    Kansas
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    I went and looked at some of my Flicker shad baits and the ones that I could get to quick where marked 7M on the bottom aft portion and 7CM converts to 2 3/4". And that was the length of the body discounting the lip. So I would assume the 7M marking is the size in centimeters, sound right?

  8. #18
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    Oct 2013
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    Iowa
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flint View Post
    I went and looked at some of my Flicker shad baits and the ones that I could get to quick where marked 7M on the bottom aft portion and 7CM converts to 2 3/4". And that was the length of the body discounting the lip. So I would assume the 7M marking is the size in centimeters, sound right?
    You are correct - 7 is for 7 centimeters, as is the 9, 6, 5 and 4 Flicker Shads
    Take a senior or a kid fishing soon!

  9. #19
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    Dec 2010
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    Kansas
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    Thanks Tommy.
    Likes Tommy Skarlis LIKED above post

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