Thread: lesson learned about round head jig molds

They also probably don't expect anyone to measure them...

I will do just that Skip. I found my scale and want to set up a experiment, I will post data when I get the results. Think that this will be interesting. Well for a old geezer like me it will.

Redman

I started pouring jigs this year and at first I was using some filler sticks our cable splicers at work use..They are 40% tin and you could tell the difference between those heads and the heads I have poured using the solid lead sleeves I now use..Havent weighed them but as some of you have said the larger jigs were noticeable

Heck just weigh a 1/16 Oz. Real Roadrunner head and see what you get. I will tell you it's closer to a 1/8 than it is 1/16. The 1/32 are close to what they should be, but only choice there is a #6 hook which is small, but still they work best of all since their weight is pretty good. The funny thing is a 1/8 Oz. Real Roadrunner is pretty close, but is less than 1/8 without the blade, but with the blade it's almost exact.

Anyway why the 1/16 is the only one of the 3 sizes that is not close at all?

Skip

Could do with heating temps also, hotter lead may lead to smaller weights when poured and vice versa. May also heave to do with impurities more in the sense that they expand more than lead will leading to the right size head but lighter weights and again, vice versa, impurities don't expand as much and lead to heavier jig heads.

Just thoughts, I don't know anything for sure about any of it.

I wonder if Do it or any of the other companies have an actual explanation.

Originally Posted by skiptomylu

Heck just weigh a 1/16 Oz. Real Roadrunner head and see what you get. I will tell you it's closer to a 1/8 than it is 1/16. The 1/32 are close to what they should be, but only choice there is a #6 hook which is small, but still they work best of all since their weight is pretty good. The funny thing is a 1/8 Oz. Real Roadrunner is pretty close, but is less than 1/8 without the blade, but with the blade it's almost exact.

Anyway why the 1/16 is the only one of the 3 sizes that is not close at all?

Skip

Now that is weird. You Should write the company and see what they have to say about that.

Hi guys, sorry to come to this late. I am very seriously starting to set up molds for pouring my own 32nd oz heads primarily because I cannot find the ones I want with the size hooks I want. That is how I stumbled on this thread.

There are couple of issues in this conversation.

First the collar and the tang are figured into the head weight; so tanged jig heads have a smaller diameter ball than non-tanged ones for the weight. I use them both and that is pretty standard, but it may not be universal which may account for some of the differences noted above.

Second size of the ball involved varies between companies and molds despite the material being poured, and then the same mold will produce different weights if the material is markedly different. On the ice we find a very marked difference between tungsten and lead jigs of the exact same size and shape. I really gotta think that company scales simply are calibrated differently. The 32nd oz tanged heads from Southern Pro are larger than those from Eagle Claw, for example. No question there is a variation there. Personally I tend to fish with the same brand for better uniformity and that gives me better control over the presentations.

Thirdly there is also a size difference in the diameter of the finished item depending on what finish was used and how many coats were given. Most finishes are thick enough that they reduce the function of a tang on the little jigs. Most manufacturers don't pay enough attention to get a good tang anyway. I fish both tanged and untanged round head jigs depending on the style of plastic I will be using with them. I want a good hooking tang, preferably reversed on a parallel collar. Pretty much all one can get is the tapered collars with the tiny reverse tangs which don't hold very well. Too many collared jig heads come with tiny enough tangs that any amount of finish coat pretty much destroys whatever little function that had in the first place. No wonder tubes slip, spoiling presentations and increasing the spin that results in line twist.

That is why I am seriously considering making my own molds and/or getting a blank machined. I prefer 6 and 8 sized bronze or black hooks on 32nd oz heads; the reverse tang is meant to both open the hook gap and to keel out the jig hopefully to reduce spin. I would prefer to be able to buy the jigs, but that is proving to be difficult to next to impossible. Such a little thing...

Also a lot depends on the lead make up or where it came from and how pure it is as far as what it weighs and I think that may be the biggest factor in the jig heads weighing different that what the mold says it is.

I don't know anything about pouring jig heads, but I do tie a lot and have many sizes and the only ones I find are actually what they say they are end up being the 2 smaller jig heads I have, 1/64 & 1/32 and anything larder is always off a little even if they have nothing to do what a collar.

I know a guy that is making his own molds, but has a really beautiful equipment set up for doing that. He sent me some pics of his work and showed his equipment involved and I got to say he didn't go on the cheap for sure and have very impressive set up.

Skip