I have Trolling with braided line question

I use braid for two applications. When jigging for Stripers in 25 -80 FOW the braid has much less stretch. I use 20# braid with 14# hydrocarbon leader.
My 2 nd use is fishing in my friends stump filled pond. I discovered I can cast light jigs and plugs much further using 6# highvis Fireline with 2 ft 4# fluro leader. My stump survival rate is much higher and the 3-6# occasional bass comes to the net more often.
If I'm just crappie or bream fishing with jigs, minnows or worms plain old 4# mono is fine with me. That's what I use longlineing or spider rigging too.

I only spider rig and I use braid only for my main line and 6 to 8 lb flurocarbon leader line. My rig may not suit everyone but it does very well for me, I don't just spider rig in open water, I will go right in to the thick of things with 8 rods out the front. I slide my sinker on the braid, then a bead and then tied to a barrel swivel. This allows me to pre tie my leaders with a loop knot in the end, then when I break off I only loose my leader and not the sinker and swivel, this enables me to grab a leader, run the loop through the swivel then run the jig through the loop and I am back to fishing in 30 seconds or less. I will also mention I only run one hook per rod as I have never seen that running two hooks ever got me a limit any quicker "though I have tried it many times" and one hook means a lot less to tangle up. Just thought I would share what works for me and by no means knocking anybody's way of doing things. God Bless and happy fishing

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With all the people on the water given the current conditions, nice weather, clear water and everyone off work - I have been long line trolling braid with a 8 foot flourocarbon leader. I have been trolling crankbaits and it is producing really well on the 10-15 inch crappie. The key is the long line trolling. I think the bigger fish are spooky and 90% are suspended over 20 feet of water with no relation to structure at all. Once again, due to the fact everyone is on the structure.

Rodney, I did this sort of thing this past year. I used Hi-Vis yellow then Hi-Vis orange for the same reason of not being able to see the line when longlining. I could not see if lines were close or crossing over the other. Remus and I both had problems with this. I give all the credit to my sunglasses for not seeing the line. Still have not got the problem solved. Seeing the rod tip is not our problem. I hope someone gives you and me a better answer to the line issues. I have never used braid or flora carbons so I couldn't say what way to go. Wish you luck!

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Originally Posted by BigDawgg

Rodney, I did this sort of thing this past year. I used Hi-Vis yellow then Hi-Vis orange for the same reason of not being able to see the line when longlining. I could not see if lines were close or crossing over the other. Remus and I both had problems with this. I give all the credit to my sunglasses for not seeing the line. Still have not got the problem solved. Seeing the rod tip is not our problem. I hope someone gives you and me a better answer to the line issues. I have never used braid or flora carbons so I couldn't say what way to go. Wish you luck!

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Dawgg I was thinking you had questions on this last year. I haven’t got out and tried it yet. But I am going to use a long leader4-6# depending on jigs or 6# on my Newly crank pulling testing. That’s when I noticed how hard it was to see the lines. Then when I took my great nephew in law last Tuesday to pull jigs it was also hard to see. I ordered hi vis braid after the crank pulling. I mainly plan to use the braid to help with visual location of the lines. Soon as I test this I will let it be known if it helps


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