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Since you don't have ports in the cylinders a Ball Flex hone will put a good scratch for new rings. The 2 Strokes have camfers at the Ports that a Ball flex will damage. I would have to look up the grit size for the hone. I use diesel here for a hone lubricant but Ball Flex Hone Mfrs usually have their own lubricants.
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Rojo, you sent me this in a PM: "Powerhead bolts on a Yamaha they are the worst. I use Kroil and if I can get it to move a little go very slowly working it a little then let it cool. Yamaha bolts are terrible for wringing off."
Now I'm worried about attacking those bolts. They are next on my agenda. The one thing maybe I have going for me is the fact that since the engine was redone 8 months ago with a new (used head), new (used block) and a new oil pump, maybe they'll be easy enough since they were recently removed and had spent less time in the salt. And supposedly, it was not run for four of those months. So, only occasional salty fishing on the weekends for four total months. He said it ran great during that time.
And I think I was able to clean up the bottom of that lower piston with scotch-brite. dono. feels smoother, looks pretty much the same.
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Bud they should break. Gradually increase the pressure on your handle. a breaker bar is better since the longer handle allows you to feel how much torque you're applying easier. You are correct, they should come right back out. I install all mine using the Nickel Never-seize not the Copper, once the Nickel based material is in the threads they come back out forever.
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Discoloration is normal, a buildup of Aluminum is not. See if you can see your hone marks thru the discoloration, if you can your good. Your pictures show the cross-hatch pattern well.