Tom, it is still working & that was a long time ago.:ThumbsUp
Printable View
I WILL LOOK AT HIS BROKEN WIRES ON HIS DUCER AND SEE WHAT I CAN DO,IF I STILL DECIDE TO DO IT ,I WILL TEST IT OUT FOR A WHILE ON MY 798 BEFORE I PUT IT ON 998,THIS INTERFERANCE WILL POSSIBLE DAMAGE UNIT?? AND IF IT IS NOT ENOUGH TINFOIL, CAN YOU USE REGULAR TINFOIL? I ALWAYS LOVE TO MESS WITH THINGS BUT DON'T WANT TO BE STUPID ,HAVE ENOUGH OF THAT COMING NATURALLY:biggrin
I WILL LOOK AT HIS BROKEN WIRES ON HIS DUCER AND SEE WHAT I CAN DO,IF I STILL DECIDE TO DO IT ,I WILL TEST IT OUT FOR A WHILE ON MY 798 BEFORE I PUT IT ON 998,THIS INTERFERANCE WILL POSSIBLE DAMAGE UNIT?? AND IF IT IS NOT ENOUGH TINFOIL, CAN YOU USE REGULAR TINFOIL? I ALWAYS LOVE TO MESS WITH THINGS BUT DON'T WANT TO BE STUPID ,HAVE ENOUGH OF THAT COMING NATURALLY:biggrinTHANKS YOU GUYS FOR YOUR INPUT,IF HAVE ANYMORE ,PLEASE LET ME KNOE
Regular tinfoil is conductive on both sides. If you use regular tinfoil at adjacent splice points, the tinfoil will touch unless you insulate the tinfoils. The tinfoils if added would not work unless it touches the inside of the pair foil wrap. No, rf and emi noise will not cause physical damage ( in most cases) if it is induced. Mostly, noise is just crap on the display.
I believe the the shield is aluminum mylar.
If the shield is broken a few feet from the transducer, you would probably never notice it.
Belden cable has some good poop on shielding. I can't find my link info.
Perform a continuity test on the foil wrap. It should read continuity on the foil side and infinity on the mylar (colored) side. This will explain what I am trying to emphasize about splicing the foils.
thanks tom