I have written Dicor this morning to see what the warranty actually is. I have got a quote from their competitor with a lifetime warranty of $595 delivered with everything needed to do a professional job.Quote:
Originally Posted by Slab
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I have written Dicor this morning to see what the warranty actually is. I have got a quote from their competitor with a lifetime warranty of $595 delivered with everything needed to do a professional job.Quote:
Originally Posted by Slab
Attachment 482127
Here is the fridge, gutted inside, all the shelves, door organizers, dividers, etc were removed along with the screws securing the Cooling Unit to the Cabinet before laying it down on the doors. I will get started removing the bad Cooling Unit in the morning.
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So the wood under the Refrigerator has some layers that delaminated with some rot too. Each side wall had the slightest, wispy, amount if insulation, just enough to make a mess installed. There is supposed to be a insulation like a blanket, just wait till I'm done. All the loose wood lamination must be removed then I will build up the lost material with a Epoxy Lamination bringing it back to level. Also in the process the whole area will be waterproofed so this will not be a problem in the future.
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On top of the poor construction of this area 2 - 12DC splices are in the elecrtical supply going to the Furnace. The Furnace is like new on the inside so no attention is needed to it. I can't live with this wiring, something will be done.
Attachment 482134
Here I have all the loose stuff, the would-be sealer, and other debris removed. It has to be sanded, a tooth applied before it can start the repair.
Rojo = "the machine"
It will be better than new when you’re finished I’m sure. :ThumbsUp:ThumbsUp
When the manufacturer builds one there are 100 inline behind it to complete, it's a pattern. When I build, repair, customize, one it's a instance. Yes, when I'm done with this project it will be better than new. I can take whatever time is needed to do it right. The Amish Cooling Unit for the refrigerator works better than the original. Also I'm adding temperature sensors, cooling fans, new heat exhaust port, insulation, etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by BuckeyeCrappie
We were looking at campers last year but decided against one opting for cabins or hotels at the places we go instead. I still would love to have one at a lake somewhere and still may one day.
Bud we are 14 miles from the Gulf of Mexico. I had a class A but being married to a Quilter she needed room for sewing. Also having a vehicle to drive when you get where you're going is great. The Class A had upkeep too being a complete vehicle. With Hurricane Katrina we were 40 days without power and although I have made substantial improvements, preparations, modifications, in some instances as everyone has seen posted in the cooking section even dual ranges in the kitchen. We can lite the propane range with a match. Propane on demand hot water heater keeps us from 40 days of cold showers. I keep this camper a 3 hour drive north of the Gulf, inside a insulated storage building so it does not get damages from a storm. If we need emergency housing this will be just fine. Keeping it on Ross Barnett is a wonderful bonus, I like that kind of bonus. :ThumbsUpQuote:
Originally Posted by BuckeyeCrappie
That’s why I’m looking for (near a lake)
Realizing the wood can not be replaced without making a real mess and that the Refrigerator sits on two rails I decided to structurally stabilize the wood where over 50% of it is lost. A aluminum angle is being used to prevent the epoxy from migrating to the interior wall since it is not attached now.
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After putting the piece of angle in place with the epoxy butter I hand tore some fiberglass chop tape to build up and stabilize the damaged area.
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So this alone would support the refrigerator but is about 1/8in low so the rail would ride on the front molding, not good at all. I cut a piece of 1/8in 5052 marine aluminum sheet and press it down in the wet lamination till perfectly level and to the perfect height.
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With the Skid Plate in place I put a oil heater in the space to speed the epoxy along curing.
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Very nice. Strong like Bull! You know an alternative to the oil heater is a Florida residence, just sayin!. Rojo = "Never Stop moving"
One of the main reasons I pulled the Camper in was to replace the failed Cooling Unit in the refrigerator. I could buy a new refrigerator but I could not get the door panels to match the ones we have and this is not the first time I replace a cooling unit so I went the repair route.
Attachment 482216
Now that the camper is inside it will be getting a lot of attention. I first disconnect the refrigerator then remove the screws inside the freezer section and refrigerator fin section along with the shelves and door organizers.
Attachment 482217
You can see I have the refrigerator laying face down on the floor ready to start disassembly.
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So all the stuff on the back has to be removed, the control board, burner, wiring, gas valve, etc before the cooling unit itself can be removed.
Attachment 482226
A lot of times you have to rig up to pry out the cooling unit but I was able to get this one free without too much fight. I did say it's not my first, you learn quickly doing these replacements. Going back in with the new unit a Thermal Mastic must first be applied to the coil to transfer the cooling to it aluminum plates & fins still in the box. I forgot to take pictures, was totally focused on the task but there is plenty of videos online that show this entire process.
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The tubing exposed but embedded in the foam block is where the mastic is applied. You apply the entire tube, every bit.
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All the old tape, foam bits, or anything else that may prevent the coil for full contact with the plates must be removed. Then if you look at the first picture that is the freezer plate and the screw holes are bent in. You use a hammer, I also used a transfer punch, using the center to prevent missing the strike point center but using the flat face to catch the place flattening out the crowns. In the second picture I used a sharp drill bit to slightly enlarge the screw holes to ease starting the screws into the new cooling unit mounting holes.
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After placing the new cooling unit in you add a couple of mounting screws to the frame to keep it in place then stand up the refrigerator opening the doors and screw the cooling unit to the freezer plate and refrigerator fins. Here I'm adding a fan assembly to the fins to prevent them from freezing up, a common problem with Dometic refrigerators as well as improving the temperature uniformity all over inside the box.
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Once you have the interior screws installed you lay the refrigerator back on it's face and using a GE Windows & Doors expanding foam fill the voids between the refrigerator body and the cooling unit.
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After allowing the foam to fully cure I very, very, carefully trimmed the excess foam away as I didn't like that the foam cut off the air flow on the first back coil turn and the tip of the foam can didn't penetrate about a 4in section due to contact from the cooling unit foam block. The Amish manufacturer of the cooling unit said a 2 inch air leak in the back here could prevent the unit from working properly. I can't see it but I'm certified with Freon refrigerants not ammonia refrigerants. They sent me a small roll of aluminum tape to apply over the foam but wrote very specifically their tape was "cosmetic only". Well I don't do things like that so Monday I have to run over to Johnstone Supply and pick up some Aluminum Mastic Tape. Once applied its like trying to remove Gorilla Tape but made for sealing this exact application. Once I apply that I have a double seal.
Inside my shops is cold. The wood building has 8in thick walls with full depth insulation and the metal building is double insulated so they take forever to warm up. It does look very nice down at your place when I'm watching your videos.Quote:
Originally Posted by Slab
The first time we backed into a spot at the Goshen Springs Campground on Ross Barnett my wife tried to turn on the 120 volt side of the Water Heater to be disappointed by the smell of electrical burning. We have been using the camper but with the propane side of the water heater only. I always planned the haul in for the upgrades at some point.
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I first cut the power to the 120 volt side then the 12 volt side. Then disconnected the propane supply line. After using a 24in breaker bar I was able to remove the drain plug / anode holder and drained the tank. The Anode was completely gone also the bolt that held the anode was almost completely rusted away. In the pictures above is the solids that came out of the tank when I drained it. On the limestone is the debris the wash tub caught while draining the tank, I wish I had thought to take a picture of how much came out before I dumped it.
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After draining I disconnected the water lines from the inside and as I slid the unit out I had to go back and forth to insure the metal housing did not snag any of the other wires just laying across on the inside. Seeing all the control wires loose like this is not how I roll so I will use convoluted tubing to organize them on re-installation.
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Of course the water connections were stuck but using a Battery Impact and 6-Point Deep Sockets I bumped them right out. The Hot Water side has a check valve so I cleaned it out before installing in the new tank.
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After applying Recto Seal to the cleaned threads of each fitting I reinstalled them in the correct tank locations.
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Re-connecting the 12volt control wires I used marine grade glue infused Stake-on Heat Shrink wire connectors instead of the cheaper connectors used by the manufacturer. I also started the convoluted tubing run going into the cabinet down thru the hole where the water line pass thru so its got some protection that far at least.
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Wire Nuts are installed by turning Clockwise so when I strip stranded wire I like to pre-twist the exposed strands not by sliding my pinched fingertips over the copper, that adds impurities possibly to the copper but by pinching very firmly and twisting my wrist so the wire bend at the end of the insulation before making the wire nut termination. I do this till the wire is twisted all the way to the exposed end. This removes any slack in the strands so the wire nut bites equally into both the solid & stranded copper conductors. I also save my small rolls of Scotch 33 or 88 for wrapping wire nuts at the end of the task. The small roll pieces make it easier to get the roll in tight places.
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All the wires are terminated and as much of the loose control wires are in convoluted tubing. Now to slide the water heater in and connect the propane line. The camper builders removed the factory water heater grommet for the propane line, reversed it, cut a notch out of it, then reinstalled it after getting the propane line nut thru the access opening. Using a big glob if silicone they sealed the reversed, notched grommet after connecting the propane line. I could do the si it was a bit of a pain to work the propane line in to the valve but it was possible without cutting on the grommet or reversing it.
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The manufacturer installed a couple of screws thru the metal sides of the water heater into the aluminum frame to hold the front of the water heater centered in the open hole. I could not get a bit to drill the metal (I think a cheap alloy of stainless) without walking so I pilot hole was drilled with a long 1/8in bit. Afterwards I opened the holes with a cobalt bit and installed the screws.
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The trim was rusted a bit on the bottom-inside so I sanded and painted it yesterday. I need to put a few more coats of paint today before installing the trim.
Great work! I need another nap from reading. :Rofl
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In our previous Motorhome I had to perform a Cooling Unit replacement in the Refrigerator. When I pulled the Refrigerator to repair it the unit had a insulation blanket. When I pulled the Refrigerator in this case there was just 2 6in wide, non-backed, wispy, bit of fiberglass strips. One on each side. The pictures show where the glue was and how little of it was used. Little insulation, little glue. The wires were as you see them here. I'm not sure why the little insulation was applied because it didn't do anything.
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So Bon Temps and I was fishing when He offered some insulation He had leftover from a job at his house. Not sure what he had I went to his place instead of letting him bring it to me to check it out. Turns out the insulation being rigid white bead foam with a backing was perfect. I didn't even need to trim this first panel before installing. I usually use the 3M Heavy Duty Trim Adhesive but had a full can of the General Trim Adhesive on hand that was getting old. After moving the wires out of the way and placing the first panel in position to just stand it up I applied a heavy layer of the contact cement to both Panel and insulation. Contact cement needs a bit of time to dry before pressing the insulation in place. Once glued in place the wires need addressing.
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Using a small coping saw I cut a trench to allow the two Romex wires to recess into the insulation preventing me from snagging the wires when re-installing the refrigerator.
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To keep the wires secured inside the groove I use this Aluminum backed Mastic duct tape. Once the Mastic cures you can't remove it.
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The same task is done to the opposite side of the opening but too many wires were in the way. I rerouted the wiring to the back of the cabinet, tie wrapping them together so just the corner of the insulation needed to be removed before installation.
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I didn't have much clearance overhead for insulation so I cut a piece of this 1 inch thick foam used to make insulated fish boxes, bilge flotation, noise dampening, etc to fill the void under the cabinet. The same glue was used for the install.
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How these refrigerators work is by absorption, waste heat is expelled thru a coil on the back of the fridge, the waste heat is supposed to just rise up and out of the vent in the roof. Look at all the foam sealant that was just applied randomly creating air dams causing turbulence at the vent. The new cooling unit comes with a thermostat and fan to help support proper function of the waste heat coil. Before the refrigerator goes back into this cabinet I must correct this. While replacing the roof I will have access to the roof sheathing to trim the jagged, raw, opening area left by the manufacturer. First I had to remove all the foam that was in the way which was very easy because it was not stuck to much. Just a wipe from my hand and down it came.
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Here are pictures after removing the expanding foam. As you can see none of it was stuck. If you have had the pleasure of removing Great Stuff Foam from places it didn't belong you know it leaves a residue that is terrible to get off. Not here, it almost fell off.
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Look at the way they did the roof opening. The roof membrane is supposed to be wrapped inside and stapled down but no they didn't even bother to cut the wood all the way around but broke off parts of it.
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Here is the opening now. The Aluminum Foil Mastic Tape has sealed permanently the Refrigerator side of the opening improving air flow too. I will have a chance to correct the roof later but not the underside, that had to be done now.
Glad to see the insulation worked so well and went to a good use. Your projects are always done first class.
Bon Temps!!!
That worked good. Nice job and much better than before.
It certainly fits like you ordered it for my camper. Thanks again for the insulation my Friend. Keith's on the 6th - Tamale Time.Quote:
Originally Posted by BON TEMPS
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I bought my new Cooling Unit from JC Refrigeration a Amish Mfr who specializes in Cooling Units for Absorption Refrigerators. They have some innovations to the coolant formula, secondary fans for extra cooling of the external fins that is thermostat controlled, Fin fans for the inside Cooling Fins, etc. They specifically instruct to seal the Cooling Unit to the Cabinet without any air leaks. These pictures show how well I sealed the unit with the provided foam. Now I trimmed the excess because I am double sealing the unit with Aluminum Mastic tape. I didn't post earlier but this tape, to good stuff, is over $50 a roll but worth every penny.
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The instructions say to use the provided Aluminum tape to cover the foam for aesthetics only but the Aluminum Mastic is a fully functional, Code approved Mastic for Ductwork construction. The pictures above show how I took my time and tooled down a layer of Mastic Tape over the foam for a Absolute Seal, no leaks Ever. The first picture has a 3M Squeegee for the proper installation of the Mastic Tape. Using your hands does not work like tooling, it is a must.
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This is the external Fin Cooling Fan that JC Refrigeration provides. It screws to a plate that is installed under the skin and includes a thermostatic temperature disc that attaches to the coil in a strategic, engineered location to control the fans operation. The Cooling Unit came pre-marked where the fan & switch mounts. Fantastic detail.
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The ARP Fridge Defend Controller is another serious upgrade the EVERYONE who owns a Absorption Refrigerator in their Camper, 5th Wheel, or Motorhome should add Now. I will post a link to their website explaining what it does but the short answer is when it is extremely hot of cold it is possibly for the Boiler to operate dry. Especially in Freezing Temps. I lost my Refrigerator in the excessive heat wave of the Summer of 2023. Had I had this unit installed I would not have lost my Fridge. Now unfortunately I was paying very close attention to their instruction and didn't let myself get distracted taking pictures. The installation of the Temperature Bulb is very specific but in the second picture you can see the leads for the the Bulb exiting near the Heater Leads.
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There are not screw holes that match my control board as you can see here, I had to drill them to mount the Controller.
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Due to the requirement of using the JC Refrigeration Burner Mounting Bracket my sheet metal didn't align with the existing holes and in places would not overlap in the OEM configuration. If you don't use their bracket the burner may not be centered under the Burner Tube. I had to work at it to cleanly install the metal coverings.
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Some older RV Refrigerators won't even have this part. Check yours, if you don't order a retrofit kit and install it. This is another Safety Device. Recalls created this fire prevention device, it tripped on mine but only after burning my Cooling Unit up. Still prevented burning the entire storage building I rent down.
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With the help of a friend I stabbed the Refrigerator back into the Cabinet for continued re-assembly and re-installation.
Beautiful work. Love that you take the time to detail your work for us.
Amish Mfg innovative in cooling tech, now that's cool. Glad to hear that. Great job as usual Rojo.
Literally Cool! Their Dometic Cooling Unit freezers have been clocked at 7 degrees below Zero. I have never had a Dometic freezer do better than 10 degrees above Zero.Quote:
Originally Posted by Slab
Not all work going here is storm recovery. That just added to my self-inflicted burdens. I did finish the new AC install, all digital controls, now we have a Heat Pump as well as a Furnace (it is hard for me to sleep thru the Furnace cycling), the possibility of just turning the system to "ON" and it selects which system to run for climate control. I don't have a picture of the controller right now so I will add to this post later.
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Since the mounting base had to be removed on the old unit all the foil tape sealing it to the ductwork had to be removed too. When I resealed the new base I used Foil Mastic Tape a far superior product. It took a couple of hours to do a very good but clean job. No air leaks at all after completion.
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I didn't get a very good picture but this new Dometic AC unit has all the Evaporator Coil area insulated with molded Bead Foam. Really it is like being enclosed in a Styrofoam ice chest.
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After adding the Dometic Soft Start to the AC unit skid I had to install their CCC2 Digital control box and wire it in.
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The installation manual recommended using a wire connector like these WAGO units like I used here for all the terminations.
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The filter and ceiling register just slides in from the sides snapping in place.
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With the Trim on you can see I have to make a Trim Base to hide the marks in the ceiling from the old unit. That will be later, I have a truck to fix.
With the refrigerator pushed back it is time to install the Boiler Over-temp Safety Device. If I had one of these installed to begin with I would not have had a Cooling Unit failure.
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Here is the wiring schematic. Its pretty straight forward, the bulb on the boiler senses the temperature and cuts power to the fridge if too high a reading is present.
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Since I added quite a bit of add-ons to the refrigerator they all needed power supplied. The new Blower fan for the Cooling fins didn't have a fuse so I added one again for safety. All the slack in the wiring was policed up, propane connections here and the Hot Water Heater were tested for leaks, and the ARPRV Controller installed.
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The controller mounts to the Printed Circuit Board cover. It was kinda late by this point yesterday so I will fire up the refrigerator today sometime.
That asorbsion technology works well. That ammonia can be some tough stuff to breath around when one ruptures. I did some repairs on a few of them when I worked as a tech at a Camper Shop
I was surprised when the JC Refrigeration blower fan came on to cool the coils very close to startup today. A bi-metal switch is screwed to a flat plate the Amish unit is manufactured with. Simple design, plate heats and the switch closes. I was repairing the roof a little while ago installing the new refrigerator roof vent and heard it cut off. Went in to check the temps after 8 hours of running and the freezer was 25 the box 40. I need to get it a little colder than that so I guess I will slide the sensor up the fin a bit. We didn't discover the boiler burst till well after the heatwave last summer. The yellow stuff was all over in the boiler insulation. I noticed the air off the Cooling Unit top Coil gets pretty warm, glad I went with the blower now.Quote:
Originally Posted by DockShootinJack
Seems I didn't blog that the new AC Unit Blew Up in the driveway spewing all it's Freon out. I had to bring my camper to a Dometic Warranty Center. They replaced the AC unit no worries, and let me know it was ready to pickup. Made in China AC unit BTW. Just another 2 week delay.
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Since the truck was crushed I decided to try the Fishin' Expedition to pull the camper home. Now this is a 30ft camper. I could not go over 50mph with the camper. Plenty of power but swaying all over the road without a weight distributing hitch & anti-sway setup.
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I did make it home and walked inside to mix a whiskey drink after the 30 minute ride. It pushed the front end of my Expedition all over the place. I didn't take pictures but the leading Awning Mount to the Camper came loose at some point and was one of the items on my punch list. It was originally installed with 1/4in self tapping screws without sealant. Sealant was applied to the screw heads afterwards doing nothing to seal the water out of the holes. Well I had to buy 5/16 x 1in Stainless Steel Lag Bolts to fix today. I first put the Lag Bolt into a 1/2in Nut Driver with a flat washer the applied a liberal amount of Fast Cure White 5200 to the threads before installing each retainer. It will Never Leak again.