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This happens to black more than any other color. I have been curing all my colors at 300 for about 13 min. Most of the time the black nipples down. Do I keep cutting back the times or what? I only swish it in the paint to the count of 2.Back and forth one time then out she comes
What I did to help me prevent the run from my Illusion was to dip it cold, heat it, cool it, dip it, and one more time to get it to look right and prevent the droop. I had to do it this way because dipping the heated jig always resulted in too much.
Only other thing that has worked was to cure them at 200 for 30-45 minutes. The time isn't the issue, at least that is what I have been told, the temp is. Cooler temps, cures slower, doesn't get as hot and can't droop as easily. I have cured at these temps and they do work, just have to find the right times for the right temp somewhere.
So at a lower temp should work on all colors and I would guess it would also help prevent the run that closes the hook eye as well when you bake them. Did I understand that correct?Quote:
Originally Posted by fish_4_all
I just cured 100 jigs at 275. Red, Pink, orange, purple, yellow. Cooked them for 30 minutes. Not a single closed eye and not a single droop of any kind. The reason I did it was because they are lead free jig heads, not because of problems with the paint. I did notice that they eyes were much cleaner than at higher temps though so maybe it made a difference there too. The finish is rock hard just like the ones I bake at 350 and I have never noticed a difference in the finish nor the durability.
It couldn't hurt to try! I don't have black otherwise I would know what works already. Either that or I would have given up on using it.
will do that on the next batch and see how it turns out especially around the hook eyes for that seems to be the only place mine runs if it runs at all
Don't have that problem ever since I started using a fluid bed. I also use an alcohol burner and I count depending on the jig head size. For me I count between 6-8 for 1/16 and at least 8 for 1/8. I also cure the black as the Mfg recommends at 392 for 15 minutes.
Skip
It might be that the black is collecting more around the eye than the other colors. I have this problem with purple. I started heating the head from the bottom side away from the eye and I didn't get the caking between the eye and the pliers as bad if at all. I didn't get any filing of the eyes once I did. Maybe the hook eye doesn't heat up as much or something doing it that way.
Also if you get the eye painted shut with the black I find it is the easiest one to clear out (after cure) with a hot bodkin.
Skip
The only time I ever get top clumps is when I've gotten too much powder on the jig head. And after I've cleaned the eyes off and then cured, never had a jig eye get filled in and you've seen my posts with the pictures of them.
There is a sticky on here with curing times for different colors of paint but I've always used the 350 degrees for 20 mins sometimes 22 but thats about it.
Here's the sticky from Skip on cure times:
http://www.crappie.com/crappie/jig-t...emps-time.html
Fatman
Quote:
Originally Posted by fish_4_all
Great suggestion! Thanks.
Yes I have that cure time chart. I hold the jig with hemostats by the eye when I heat and dip into the fluid bed. I don't have a problem with the eyes filling with paint just the nipple drip. I wonder if the higher temp would make it cure faster causing less drip instead of lowering the temp.Or really drop the temp down to 200 for 30 min.I had been using 300 for 13 min and got the drip
LD
The “cure chart” can maybe put you in the ballpark. Your oven, temperature controller, and monitoring point would have to be very similar to the equipment used to develop the chart.
How are you measuring your temp – are you actually curing at 300F? If you are going by where your temp set point is (on your dial) – 13 min. isn’t really enough time for your chamber to stabilize. And does your dial reading correlate to the actual temp? You have to know the characteristics of your curing chamber.
Get a type T thermocouple reader (could be expensive) and place the probe in the center of your chamber and monitor temperature while you cure.
Another problem is the majority of ovens have thermostatic control and they aren’t very accurate and they take awhile to stabilize. When you start the unit the temperature will over shoot, in some cases as much as 50F – this cause a lot of the drips/sags. Then the unit will under shoot to get back to set point and does this until the delta (difference between the high and the low) is about +/- 5F of set point. These are generalized numbers – some units might run tighter and some not. Pre heating is good if you can’t or don’t want to manual control.
Because I blend different paints - usually try to control at 310F to 320F for 20 minutes (minimum – sometimes longer). Primary oven’s starting set point is 250F and the unit will ramp up to 320F – when the temp starts backing down to about 300F, I slowly increase the set point – have to do this a couple of times. You can actually here the heating element going on and off. It takes this oven about 10-15 min. to stabilize with ~3F delta around 315F.
You can also use a TCU (temperature control unit) for some precise temp control. Have built two for making plastic baits. One with a Watlow controller and the other unit has Watlow micro processor – they control temp by limiting current, soak time, and ramp time – extremely accurate.
If you are going to do single colors – get/make a fluid bed. I hardly ever use one – mostly brushes now.
Hope it makes sense.
I do use a fluid bed. I have a thermometer that I use in my smoke that has a probe and is digital. Cost me 50 bucks. Guess I will use that tomorrow and see where it settles in atQuote:
Originally Posted by LedHed
thanks that does help
I never seem to have aproblem with black but do with white or yellow. I have a fluid bed now and dont see it as much if ever. the bake times and temps never seem to work right for me so i just set my temp at 275 when it gets to temp I put them in for 25 minutes and that seems to work good. I might try next batch at 350 for 15 minutes and see if the drip. Oh and if I read your 1st post right did you say you put the head in the paint for a 2count? if so thats way to long all you do is a quick swish and tap off that might be some of the problem also
Will try to cut the swish time down some to a 1 countQuote:
Originally Posted by Jiggin_Joe
LedHed
I have a temp guage in the oven, and I keep a strict eye on it to make sure it stays there.
Fatman
Well I had two 1/32 jigs that had a bad nipple on them. I took a grinder to the two of them and recurred them both for 15 min at 350 ish. They recurred just fine and did not have a rough spot! :)
I checked my oven with my $50.00 smoker thermometer and she is only 5 to 7 degrees on the low side when set to 350. So I bumped it up to around 354 and it is 349-352 . Getting ready to paint a bunch of heads and try the new time of 20 min and 350
Talked to the people at CSI and they told me that black and white in particular have some ingredients in them that make them "heavy" and pick up more paint. What I did but I am only doing for myself was I bought a rack from CSI made to stand the jigs in and cure. This way any excess will run down hook shank and not create what I call nipple heads. Works great. You can buy any lengths of this rack. I bought 2 sections that fit in my toaster oven good and I can cure about 35 to 40 at a time on the two racks. No more nipple heads.
you have a link where you can get the racks from would like to check it outQuote:
Originally Posted by yellowmattie
go to csipaint.com---go to products----look for aluminum clamping racks. These are the people that make pro-tec paints
Well I cured a bunch at 350 and for 20 min. They all turned out perfect.No nipple drips and no closed eyes. I guess the higher temp hardens them up faster where as a lower temp is a slow warming and may result in the nipple drip
Where did you buy yours and how much? Looked at the racks on there site and love them!!:)Quote:
Originally Posted by yellowmattie
I usually put in oven while preheating to 350 degrees. Once the oven reaches that temp, I turn off the oven and come back in 15 minutes. Always cured just fine with no drips.
Great thread! I have had the same problems with my "glow" paints mainly the orange but also some of the blue have given me the nipple heads. All of the other colors have worked fine. I bake mine for 30 min. at 350. Guess I will go up some for the glow paint and see how that works. Thanks for all the great advice!:D
I been looking at there so called dealers for the products and cannot seem to locate it on any of them except one and it is out of stock wouldnt you figure that to be the caseQuote:
Originally Posted by laserdoc
But the listed price on the one site was $19.99 for i think a 17 inch length
I just ordered some and will have a few extra coming in as well due to minimum order requirements so if anyone else would like some of the extras that i have coming in let me know and we can do the dance and work things out as far as price and shipping
Don't remember what I gave for mine but they are well built and work wonderful for preventing the nipple head. As others have stated, I was only having problems with a couple colors but now I cure all my colors this way and don't have to worry with temps and time just cure as recommended and let any excess go in different direction. They are invaluable to me, the only drawback I would see if for those doing high production. Glad I could help!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc Crappie
pm sent!! I need some
I guess I had better make sure that I keep the paint thin then because I bake my at lower temps for longer periods. I do so because of the lead free alloy but I still don't have a problem with drips and the eyes seem to clear away completely instead of having it build up a little on the bottom side during curing.
Have one more 16 inch jig rack for baking your jig heads, if you are interested PM me with address and I will give you total cost plus shipping for it. Put a couple 1/16 oz jigs in it so you could see how it works, jigs where done before i got the racks but put them in just to give you an idea how it works
http://i691.photobucket.com/albums/v...DSC04113-4.jpg
http://i691.photobucket.com/albums/v...DSC04114-2.jpg
For $20 bucks I'll stick with my cheap aluminum bread pans they work just as good.
Fatman