Wiring question for Tom

I am set to rough in all wiring for the rebuild on my boat.
I am not sure how to be able to run the wiring to be able to use two switches for one component. I.E., connecting the live bait well areator/recirculator to a switch on the front and back switch panels.

Also, I would like to install lights in the livewells and storage compartments that act like a jamb switch in a house. I want the lights to turn on when these compartment doors are opened. What is this type of switch called so I can shop for some??

Thanks!

How about magnetic switches?;)

Directed 8601 Magnetic Switch - RadioShack.com

Or a glove box switch? Whatever you use you will have to seal to pretty good to keep the water out.

One of these may work. The Radio Shack ones have too low a current rating.

Momentary push button switch - Shop sales, stores & prices at TheFind.com

You want a normally closed momentary switch.

Found them from Whitehawk electronics. He doesn't have them on his ebay site, but spoke with him by phone and he called them marine micro switches.

What do you guys think about installing some of these type switches on the livewells and storage compartments?


I think it will be a great help while night fishing.

You wish to turn the items on and off at the different locations?

It will require two on-on (spdt) switches to do this. Need a wiring diagram to go by? I will draw you one up if needed. I will keep it simple as possible.

I get parts at delcity.net. I can vouch for them (if this means anything).

Let me know.

Your light switches would be based on the amount of current the lamps will draw.

Any method mentioned will work.

Personally, I would use a magnetic switch and operate a relay to turn the lamp on. More wiring, but less likely to fail. The magnetic switches are sealed so they are not subject to corrosion. Horn relays work good. They can switch 30-40 amps if need be.;) Cheap too.

Need a schematic? Let me know.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cane Pole

You wish to turn the items on and off at the different locations?

It will require two on-on (spdt) switches to do this. Need a wiring diagram to go by? I will draw you one up if needed. I will keep it simple as possible.

I get parts at delcity.net. I can vouch for them (if this means anything).

Let me know.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cane Pole

Your light switches would be based on the amount of current the lamps will draw.

Any method mentioned will work.

Personally, I would use a magnetic switch and operate a relay to turn the lamp on. More wiring, but less likely to fail. The magnetic switches are sealed so they are not subject to corrosion. Horn relays work good. They can switch 30-40 amps if need be.;) Cheap too.

Need a schematic? Let me know.

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I am guessing that either a power wire, or a common should run directly to the light. Then the other wire from the light, to switch one, switch two, then power or common, whatever the other strand is not connected to. Please correct me if I am wrong.

I have the DelCity link from my earlier PM to you about the wiring.
Thanks, I really appreciate your input and help.

On another note, I want to share an idea with you that I know you could handle for the two of us to present to a reel manufactuer. Zebco is right here in Tulsa. I would be interested in giving an American reel company first dibbs. Let them do the patent searches and all that, I just want a residual. PM me if interested and I'll spill the beans. I trust you Tom, you one of the good guys.

You need 2 on off switches to control the pump. I would used 14 gauge marine wire. I would get the switches with screw terminals. I would crimp and solder the terminals on the switches, then coat terminals with liquid tape after the circuit is working. MOAO

would make 2 separate circuits, one for the bilge and the other for the aerator.

If you have 2 aerators, I would make a third circuit for it.

Tom

This circuit makes the switches work like a 2 way light switch. One up, other down.

The reason I wire mine this way is because I am always in the wrong seat when I remember to turn the pumps off. :( Saves a few steps.;)

It is up to you. Tell me what you want.:)

Another circuit. Turn on and off at either forward or aft position.

You have options. let me know......

Thanks Tom, here are the switches I do have. They are Green LED Marine switches with 4 prongs. Sorry about the quality, it's the best I could get without a glare.

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...witches005.jpg

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...witches004.jpg

There are two prongs marked "F". One of the "F's" has a #1 next to it's base.
Another prong is marked "D".
The 4th is not marked at all.

These particular switches are just On/Off switches. Why are there 4 connections?

I have the wiring roughed in so I can complete the decking. I'll have access to make all final connections. I've basically used a 12 gauge outdoor extension cord for main 12 v power running both sides of boat. I used some 16 gauge for connecting bilge and areators. The Trolling motor is going to be mounted directly above two deep cycles and I have enough Minn Kota wire for it's connection.

I'm not worried about connecting lights at this time in the storage and livewells. I have them roughed in where I might need them.

I do need to shop for the switches you have mentioned above so I can do things front and back without having to move.

I appreciate the input.

On of those posts is for the LED ground. Are you gonna reuse the switches?

It is a break make contact switch with a seperat LED post. My scientific expert guess. You can meter it out.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cane Pole

Another circuit. Turn on and off at either forward or aft position.

You have options. let me know......

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I like this one, nice and simple. Easy enough for a tard like me to follow. I've got 12v ran both sides of the boat in 12 gauge stranded. Each will be fused at the battery. I'm starting to get ansy bout the whole rig.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cane Pole

On of those posts is for the LED ground. Are you gonna reuse the switches?

It is a break make contact switch with a seperat LED post. My scientific expert guess. You can meter it out.

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Splain "reuse".

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Crappie Reaper

Splain "reuse".

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What the name on the switch? Who makes it? I can look it up.

Usually the led switches have to be wired a certain way to get the led on when the switch is turned on.


I would used the car tag type lamps in the compartments if low light would work. They are waterproof. You can get led type for 5 bucks at delcity.net.
Led simplifies things greatly. You can turn the leds off/on directly from magnetic switches or small momentary switches. Take a look at them.

These are the switches I bought, I ordered 4 extras for future use.

eBay Motors: Lighted Toggle Switch Marine - Auto 12 volt - NEW - (item 160224371230 end time Mar-04-09 05:07:32 PST)

I will have to meter them to see which post does what.
The guy I bought these from is absolutely great to deal with!
He may not know as much as you do, but, he knows way more than me.

BTW, what did you think 'bout those fishin rods/reels ideas I sent you?

Carling is a good switch. I need the part number on the switch so I can look up the wiring of the switch. Ebay data sheet did not sow the contact configuration. I can draw you up a circuit when I get the data on these particular switches.

I am thinking about the other stuff.

I gotta run to lake and check out the place. We haven't been up in a couple of weeks. Then I gotta go to funeral home. One of my friends from just passed. We been friends 60 years or so. Grew up with him........I am the last soldier standing in our little group.

Take a look at those tag lamps. See what u think.

The tag lamps sound great. I'll pick some up tommorrow. The only numbers on the switch are 0425.
Sorry to hear about your friend. My Mom's currently in the Hospital. They're not sure what's going on with her. More tests for her tommorrow. I might end up forgoing the OK get together.

I couldn't find the wiring specs, so based on the pic from ebay, it is just an on/off switch with a lamp that could indicate either on or off. Here is a drawing I believe you can use with this switch. It is not an led switch. Don't forget to turn it off.:p:p


The ground on the switch turns the internal lamp on.

Thank you Tom! I should be able to figure it out with what you have done for me. It's much appreciated!

Tom, I used a meter to check which posts the switch works. The unmarked post and the "D" post are what the switch turns on and off. I cannot get any meter readings on the two "F" posts, but they are connected inside according to the meter. I could not get either of the "F" posts to read when connecting them to either the unmarked or the "D" post.

I went ahead and connected the unmarked and the "D" post to a hot terminal, with the other going to a bilge pump. The other end of the bilge was connected to the Neg terminal. Switch off, nothing, switch on=bilge on. In other words, I can make the switch work, but can't figure how to get the LED to work. I know there is a simple solution, I just am stupid with anything beyond a basic connection. Any hints?

BTW, I understand the multi switch location diagram. Fairly simple. My only problem now is to get the dadburn LED's to work.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Crappie Reaper

Tom, I used a meter to check which posts the switch works. The unmarked post and the "D" post are what the switch turns on and off. I cannot get any meter readings on the two "F" posts, but they are connected inside according to the meter. I could not get either of the "F" posts to read when connecting them to either the unmarked or the "D" post.

I went ahead and connected the unmarked and the "D" post to a hot terminal, with the other going to a bilge pump. The other end of the bilge was connected to the Neg terminal. Switch off, nothing, switch on=bilge on. In other words, I can make the switch work, but can't figure how to get the LED to work. I know there is a simple solution, I just am stupid with anything beyond a basic connection. Any hints?

BTW, I understand the multi switch location diagram. Fairly simple. My only problem now is to get the dadburn LED's to work.

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Turn the switch on and ground one of the F posts. One should come on when the switch is turned on.


did you wire it up like my last drawing? Rear view of switch drawing.

Be sure it is fused........!!!!!!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cane Pole

did you wire it up like my last drawing? Rear view of switch drawing.

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I just did a bench test connecting a bilge to one switch. Am just trying to figure out the switch posts before I start installing and connecting.

So, if I re-connect it like I had it and the switch worked the bilge properly, are you saying connect one of the "f"'s to ground? Sounds good to me. I'll try again tommorrow, too pooped to pop for tonight. Thanks!

Wired like the last diagram. Bilge works but still no LED. Even tried 3 different switches just in case LED may be bad. I also tried reversing polarity to no avail. Am beginning to think both "F" posts may need to be connected. They do meter out when using the ohm meter, wether switch is on or off, so am guessing 2nd post could be for continuation purposes.

Google search for wiring a 4 post comes up blank. I might just give the seller a call to see if he knows.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Crappie Reaper

Wired like the last diagram. Bilge works but still no LED. Even tried 3 different switches just in case LED may be bad. I also tried reversing polarity to no avail. Am beginning to think both "F" posts may need to be connected. They do meter out when using the ohm meter, wether switch is on or off, so am guessing 2nd post could be for continuation purposes.

Google search for wiring a 4 post comes up blank. I might just give the seller a call to see if he knows.

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The manufacturer usually has an internal drawing of the switch. I can't find it.
I will keep looking

I got it. One of the F's goes to ground. The other goes to unswitched hot for full time LED, or I can run it off the switched side to turn on only when the switch is turned on (which is my choice). Bench tested out fine. I just farted around with things till I found it. Thanks again for the help!

Just wanted to say thanks for your help Tom. All systems are go.

I made the lid removable for easy access to all the switch backs and the wiring down below.


http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...chboxes003.jpg

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...chboxes001.jpg

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...oreboat003.jpg

http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/g...chboxes004.jpg

I don't think I ever installed more than one switch at one time. The six LED lights with switches in front and back were taxing my mind, but extremely simple in the long run.

Thanks again!