Whats you gentlemens reguards for the best jig! tieing vise I have a old orvis of My dads then a beater PS I only need 1 !!!!!! For crappie jig needs to be ture rotary.
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Whats you gentlemens reguards for the best jig! tieing vise I have a old orvis of My dads then a beater PS I only need 1 !!!!!! For crappie jig needs to be ture rotary.
Ff,I've been tying on a Renzetti Traveler rotary vise for over 12 years with no problems.I have one with a pedestal base and I've knocked off my desk several times and it still works fine with only a slight wobble.I like it so much I bought another one as a spare.I've tied thousands of jigs with it and the jaws still holds jigs like it was new.Price for one runs a little over $150. I know you can spend a lot more for some other ones which are probably as good or even better.I'ts a true rotary and will tie a crappie jig.
my danvise was 75 bucks. Its my first vice but I love it.
I started with one I got at a bait shop. After a year I got a Dan. The one that is best IMHO would be a rotary you can afford and have confidence in. There is a thread on this forum "For those new to tying." You might want to look through it.
Thanks men the reason I aked I don't know all the new makers'out there when I do all my fly tieing it will be on the orvis , needed a good one to set up with it that was a rotary for alot of my unusal ties.I'd been looking at the Renzettis just didn't know well they were built.
Well I tie on a Nor-Vise, but have a Renzetti Salt Water Traveler with cam jaw and like it a lot too, but none of the rotary vises will do what a Nor will. I also like the Peak and it is built like a well machined piece of equipment and one of the better vises for the money. I see lot of people love their Griffin Montana Mongoose and will speak up about the vise. I had a Danvise with no real complaints, but I only used it for one year. I guess my biggest thing or negative about them is they are not all metal and it's a little bigger making it with less room around the jaw to work, but not that bad.Quote:
Originally Posted by flatfish46
The Nor is more time saving with fly tying for sure as dubbing is a snap with a Nor and is different than others. You can spin a Nor unlike other vises which make it most different. If you have never seen the videos then you should take a look. With the Nor people either like it a lot or don't like it at all pretty much and that is because it is so different.
Of the ones I mentioned the Nor is much more costly, but it does much more and does it easier.
Link to the Nor and look at the videos which is linked on this page...
new - Nor-Vise Web About Us Page
Peak.... Welcome to Peak Fishing!
Renzetti.... RENZETTI - Quality fly tying Vises, Tools and Accessories manufacturer.
A little old article on vises, but still good... Selecting the best fly-tying vise, by Hans Weilenmann and Bruce Salzburg
Another Review on the vise... Fly Tying Vises In-Depth Review by Fly Fish Ohio!
All the ones I mention are well built, but the Danvise is the low end or best true rotary under $100 so much will depend on your budget.
Skip
I have and Love my Odyssey Spider vice, it is a true rotary, and have had it 7 years with no problems. Paid 65 for mine, but see that they are 85, at jannsnetcraft.com, same place i got mine.
Wow, prices for those vises are out of my range. I don't need a rotating vise but need a new one as mine is almost shot. Guess I need to save up for a good one.
Does anyone have any experience with this vise?
I am thinking of getting this one!
JS Fly Fishing: Rod Building, Fly Tying: Griffin Ent. Blackfoot Mongoose Vise
I hear a lot of very good comments from the fly tying guys on the other Griffin, the Montana Mongoose, but don't know anything about this one you posted. If interested in the other one let me know as I can probably help with cost. It's not cheap, but I can do better than what they retail for.Quote:
Originally Posted by Len
I believe you should (if you can near you) compare the 2 Griffin vises.
Skip
I started off tying flies for trout and the sunfishes. One of my first flies was one of Bob Clouser's creations, the Clouser Minnow. It is a very good (fly) with a great minnow profile, and when the dumbells are applied to the top of the hook, the position of the weight causes the hook to invert, making in less prone to snagging. Anyways, I started off tying this fly and several others on a cheap ole Master Vise. The intricacy involved with tying many small trout patterns, specifically dry flies, is unparalleled. And a rotary vise comes in handy here, because when you put that much time and detail into tying an imitation of a usually specific insect, you want every part of the fly to be symmetrical, and with a rotary you can simply make a turn of the mechanism and see the other side of the fly, and you can really appreciate the artistry involved with tying. I have tied some size 26 larval imitations, but have not (and probably never will) try tying a size 32 fly. Rotary vises are nice to have, but really are unnecessary, especially for tying a crappie jig. Now I am in no way trying to speak badly about anyone's choice in vises, BUT TO THE BEGINNING TYER: start off cheap! Learn TO TIE on a cheap vise. AS LONG AS THE VISE SECURES THE HOOK (jighead), it is an effective vise. LEARN THE BASICS on a cheap vise. FIGURE OUT what you're doing first: proportions of tail size to body size, how to wrap a material forward, (palmering), using the minimal amount of thread wraps to secure down a strand or clump of material, finishing, etc.... LEARN EFFICIENCY when tying. The least amount of thread wraps needed to secure a material is the best. TO THE BEGINNER: learn to tie first, then think about a nicer vise later.Quote:
Originally Posted by flatfish46