Printable View
From reading all about those micro spoons I had to give it try, I order my first one's seen how they were put togather, and decided to go for it, called up Jann's and order what I though I needed, and here are the results.Jim680t
Attachment 23182
Attachment 23183
Attachment 23184
Those are really cool. I like the one on the far right in the first pic..black and white? or black and silver?
That's some nice lookin work I haven't tried spoon's yet ,but the small crank's work well in shad color's.
Those all look really nice i like the ones that have the orange bellys on them...
The middle pict ones look very interesting and bet those would do well in some deep water. They must have some good darting action. Do you plan to add tails? I know traditional spoons fish well either way, and also with grub tails. Nice paint jobs!
somebody's been busy...good looking work...I'd fish'em thats for sure
you have done a good job on those spoons! I ordered a bunch of blades too, but only soldered up a few so far.
Look real good, nice work
Nice job. Be careful about using the term "Micro Spoons" I know Keith and Jessica Pace have that name trademarked. You could be opening yourself up for a lawsuit from their company.
To avoid conflict and trademark infringement you must do something different than they do.
This is what I found on http://www.crappie.com/crappie/jig-t...nsnetcraft.com
QUOTE: http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/ice-fishing-blades/
"Ice jigs are being used year round by panfishermen. Ice jigs are deadly when jigged for bluegill and crappie."
"Our ice blades are popular with ice fishemen wishing to make their own custom ice jigs. Ice blades are usually soldered to Mustad 3282 (nickel) and 3260B (gold) hooks. Bronze hooks will NOT solder unless you scrape the finish off. Ice jigs are being used year round by panfishermen. Ice jigs are deadly when jigged for bluegill and crappie. Ice fishing solder is especially formulated to solder the nickel, brass, silver and gold found on ice jigs."
Getting ready
Once I get my tools rounded up I like to plug in my soldering iron and let it heat up while prepping my materials. First things first, the tip of the soldering gets hot - up to 800 degrees Fahrenheit, so don't touch it. If you're using a new soldering iron you will want to put a small amount of solder on the tip of the hot iron before you start working. This is called tinning the iron and you only have to do it with a new iron. Once you start using it will usually have some solder on it already and be ready to go.
HOW TO SOLDER
Soldering is defined as "the joining of metals by a fusion of alloys which have relatively low melting points". In other words, you use a metal that has a low melting point to adhere the surfaces to be soldered together. Soldering is more like gluing with molten metal than anything else. Soldering is also a must have skill for all sorts of electrical and electronics work. It is also a skill that must be taught correctly and developed with practice.
Ice blades are usually soldered to Mustad 3282 (nickel) and 3260B (gold) hooks. Bronze hooks will NOT solder unless you scrape the finish off.
Soldering is nearly instantaneous, if the solder doesn't flow around the work in 1/4 of a second then something is wrong and you need to start over again.
Don't let the joint move until it has cooled enough to set, it should look mirror shiny all around.
http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/d...loseupView.jpg
This document attempts to teach soldering through a few simple steps. Tips and tricks are also provided at the end.
How To Solder
Step 1: Equipment
Soldering requires two main things: a soldering iron and solder. Soldering irons are the heat source used to melt solder. Irons of the 15W to 30W range are good for most electronics/printed circuit board work. Anything higher in wattage and you risk damaging either the component or the board. Note that you should not use so-called soldering guns. These are very high wattage and generate most of their heat by passing an electrical current through a wire. Because of this, the wire carries a stray voltage that could damage circuits and components. The choice of solder is also important. One of the things to remember is to never use acid core solder. Acid core solder will corrode component leads, board traces and form conductive paths between components. The best solder for electronics work is a thin rosin core solder. I prefer a thickness of 0.75mm, but other thicknesses will also work. Just remember not to get anything too thick.
Remember that when soldering, the rosin in the solder releases fumes. These fumes are harmful to your eyes and lungs. Therefore, always work in a well ventilated area. Hot solder is also dangerous. Be sure not to let is splash around because it will burn you almost instantly. Eye protection is also advised.
Once I get my tools rounded up I like to plug in my soldering iron and let it heat up while prepping my materials. First things first, the tip of the soldering gets hot - up to 800 degrees Fahrenheit, so don't touch it. If you're using a new soldering iron you will want to put a small amount of solder on the tip of the hot iron before you start working. This is called tinning the iron and you only have to do it with a new iron. Once you start using it will usually have some solder on it already and be ready to go.
Wipe the tip clean on the damp sponge to remove oxidation.
Once the iron reaches temperature (some irons take minutes to do this and some irons take seconds), I like to clean the tip of my iron on a wet sponge. You can wet the sponge on your soldering base if you have one, or you can just use a damp sponge or steel wool. Gently touch the tip of the soldering iron to the sponge and clean off any old bits of solder that might be stuck to it. It will sizzle a bit; this is normal.
Step 2: Surface Preparation:
A clean surface is very important if you want a strong, low resistance joint. All surfaces to be soldered should be cleaned with steel wool and some sort of solvent. Lacquer thinner works well. Some people like to use sand paper, but I think that it is all too easy to sand right through circuit board traces, so steel wool is my preference. Don't neglect to clean component leads, as they may have a built up of glue from packaging and rust from improper storage.
Step 3: Component Placement
After the component and board have been cleaned, you are ready to place the component on the board. Bend the leads as necessary and insert the component through the proper holes on the board. To hold the part in place while you are soldering, you may want to bend the leads on the bottom of the board at a 45 degree angle. Once you are sure that the component is properly placed, you can more on to the next step.
Step 4: Apply Heat
Apply a very small amount of solder to the tip of the iron. This helps conduct the heat to the component and board, but it is not the solder that will make up the joint. Now you are ready to actually heat the component and board. Lay the iron tip so that it rests against both the component lead and the board. Normally, it takes one or two seconds to heat the component up enough to solder, but larger components and larger soldering pads on the board can increase the time.
Step 5: Apply Solder And Remove Heat
Once the component lead and solder pad has heated up, you are ready to apply solder. Touch the tip of the strand of solder to the component lead and solder pad, but not the tip of the iron. If everything is hot enough, the solder should flow freely around the lead and pad.
Once the surface of the pad is completely coated, you can stop adding solder and remove the soldering iron (in that order). Don't move the joint for a few seconds to allow the solder to cool. If you do move the joint, you will get what's called a "cold joint". This will be discussed shortly.
Step 6: Cleanup
After you have made all the solder joints, you may wish to clean with steel wool or solvent to remove all the left over rosin. You may also wish to coat the bottom of the board with lacquer. This will prevent oxidation and keep it nice and shiny.
http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/d...loopjigrig.jpg
http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/d...oy41Spoons.jpg
They look good for sure. I love using spoons of all kinds.
VERY NICE, what size blade did you use on those, how did you color them, and what did you use for a clear coat ? Have you tried them yet ? THANKS
Somebodies been having fun!!!!!!! Nice spoons hope you catch a bunch!!
Fatman
Yes Jim680t, more details please. What catalog item#'s did you order? I couln't find any of these things on Jann's website. :confused:
This is what I found on http://www.crappie.com/crappie/jig-t...nsnetcraft.comQuote:
Originally Posted by Super Dave
QUOTE: http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/ice-fishing-blades/
"Ice jigs are being used year round by panfishermen. Ice jigs are deadly when jigged for bluegill and crappie."
W-2 ice jig blade shells and #4 gold hooks.
ICE BLADES STYLE W 100PK
Catalog # 320143
Use our W style willowleaf ice blades to make your own fishing jigs. Ice blades are grooved to help align your fish hook. Solder our W style ice blade to a Mustad hook model 3282 or 3260B using our ice jig solder. Smooth nickel.
Mix colors for Quantity Discount.
Description 1
100 pack 5
100 pack Quantity
(000) Style W0, Use Hook Size 8, 10 $4.89 $20.25
(001) Style W1, Use Hook Size 6, 8 $5.55 $23.75
(002) Style W2, Use Hook Size 2, 4 $6.99 $29.20
(003) Style W3, Use Hook Size 1, 2 $7.59 $30.50
Fishing solder is especially formulated to solder the nickel, brass, silver and gold found on ice jigs. Flux core allows material to flow smoothly.10 ft. coil.
Catalog # 415510
$1.19 / EACH
MUSTAD 3260B GOLD ABERDEEN HOOKS
Catalog # 810719
Mustad 3260B light wire fish hooks are used in a number of fishing applications. Small sizes of the 3260B hook are used for soldering to ice jigs and flies. Large sizes are used by live bait fishermen. Ringed, eye, gold finish.
Mix colors for Quantity Discount.
Description 1
100 pack 10
100 pack Quantity
(012) Size 12 $7.83 $71.39
(010) Size 10 $7.83 $71.39
(008) Size 8 $7.83 $71.39
(006) Size 6 $7.83 $71.39
(004) Size 4 $7.83 $71.39
(002) Size 2 $7.83 $71.39
(001) Size 1 $7.83 $71.39
Total Quantity 0
Like I said before...spoons are not just for ice fishing anymore. They will work year round. You cannot call them "Microspoons" because that is a registered trademark of Keith and Jessica Pace. If you are making them, you must do something "Different" than they do! You also have to find another name for your spoon!Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatman
Only if you intend on selling them. There's no infringement if they are not being sold.
Great info and research, Ship.
jw
Jim,
Check your personal emails.
Thanks.
I might have to give making them a try...