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Hey I'm sure I'm not the only one with this problem. I have the Lee Production pot and as soon as the lead gets in liquid form it starts dripping out the pour hole. I've tried to figure out the problem but its kinda hard with dripping lead splattering your hands. Anybody have a remedy for this.
You probaly need to empty it and clean the pour spout out.You can also try using a small wire like a paper clip,hold it with a pair of pliers and push it up and down while letting the lead pour,sometimes this will clean it out from small dirt or other debries.Hope this will help with your problem.
Dirt from the lead will settle on the bottom of the pot too and in and around the rod that stops the flow of lead when you release the handle. It will also let lead leak as the lead comes to the melting point. Sometimes you can take pliers or whatever you use to scrape off the dirt from the lead and just move the rod a little to stop the lead flow too. ALSO do what fishhunter 775 said to do to clear the spout to. I hope you are using welders gloves while working around the lead pot so you don't get your hands burned PLUS safety glasses. Ferdi aka Fred
Use a screwdriver and work the stopper back and forth until it stops. There is a slot in the top of it just for that purpose.
I have one of those pots too, and it's the smaller one. anyway, I think they all do that drip thing, I know mine does. At the top of the stem that goes down into the pot, is a screwdriver slot. Put some leather gloves on, and get a screwdriver that fits that slot, a real short one is the best. I support the front of the pot with my left hand, while pushing the screwdriver into the slot with just a little pressure, while moving the screwdriver in both directions. In other words, half a turn one way, and then a half a turn the other way, six or seven times should get it to seat, and stop dripping. some times mine seats real easy and other times it is a little tougher. just remember to be very careful, and support the pot while working the stem, cause that molten lead could do some serious damage if you turned it over. Oh yeah, when you first see the pot dripping, it is pretty hard to turn that stem cause the lead on the surface is still gripping it. Just keep checking it to see if you can move it, while moving the lead patties from underneath so they don't get too big. hope this helps
yea i think they all do it mine does it the sorse on heat up but realy wile pouring it isnt bad a paper clip will fix it most of the time
alan
I've had the same problem. I like the screwdriver idea.:)
my 20 lb pot does the same thing. I just adjust the screw and turn it a few times with a screw driver. Problem solved for a while..
Pete
Turning the stem usually works,and like some already said after a while the impurites settle to the bottom of the pot. I drain mine once ina while and clean the spout with a pipe cleaner and remove the stem and sand it down,do get better flow after cleaning.
I have 2 of the Lee Pots and here is how I handle it. I have an old steel cup that I pour any leftover lead into and it makes small round plates that will fit back into my melter, it also serves if the pot starts to leak. I put the little pot under the pour spout and I use a LONG piece of spinner wire (I make mepps style spinners) while the pot is full run the wire through the hole to clear it then use a screwdriver to spin the pour bar until it stops dripping. While pouring I flux my lead, here's a good thread on it from Tackle Underground, I will say until I read this thread on fluxing I had NEVER EVER done it, I do now:
Best Lead Melt Flux? - Tackleunderground
I never leave lead to harden in my pot.
My cleaning of the Lee Pot:
When all the lead is out of the pot I WEARING GLOVES tilt it forward to get any remaining lead to flow out the hole, I turn the pot down to about 200 degrees and then with an old 1/4 oz jig with the barb cut off and the wire formed into an L shape I shove it up into the hole from the bottom and remove any clogs/buildup, then I use a piece of spinner wire (I make mepps style spinners) and do the same from the top.
I then turn the pot off and pull the bar our of the pot and let it cool totally, I usually trim sprues from the jigs and a quick swipe with a piece of sandpaper for any that don't come off clean.
I then pack up my jigs in zip bags for temp storage till I get to painting. I put all the sprue heads in my clean lead bucket and then to the pot. I pull the pouring bar out of the pot and use a piece of steel wool to get any crap off it and then use an old flat head screwdriver to scrape the sides of the pot down. I tip the pot over and knock all the scrapings out then use a big piece of steel wool to wipe the inside of the pot till totally clean.
I've done this with every pot I've ever had and it works really well for me, plus when you go to pour again everything is clean and ready to go.
Hope this helps
Fatman
Im working on making my own stainless steel lead pot. Ive never seen the mechanism, but it is supposedly a pintle valve of some sort. Everyone complains that they leak. I think id try cleaning out the pot and disconnecting the valve and trying to lap the mating surfaces with lapping compound(gun crap-jb paste) or maybe flitz. I will have to find one to look at soon. The bottom is being welded onto my pot now. I already drilled and tapped a hole on the bottom so i still need to make the valve.
How much wax do you add to say a 10lb pot?
I believe you just use a small piece of way such as a 5/16" ball of wax for fluxing. They say to get a toilit seal and it should quite a while.
thanks for the heads up on the fluxing guys, gonna try it next time. but I am curious as to what and how a peice of wax works to make lead pour better. I mean I can invision it catching fire and staying on top as you are trying to stir it in. Also, does this wax thingy do the same thing as a peice of solder? Is it lubricating the lead? or just helping remove the impurities? at any rate I'm gonna try it.
was thinkin about the leaky pot thing. this is just my take on things. I think that when the lead starts to melt, the bottom and middle of the pot become liquid first, and the top is the last to melt. I think the melting lead is expanding slightly due to the temp rise, and the top crust is still gripping the valve rod, because it hasn't melted yet, and this expansion under the top crust lifts the rod slightly by pushing up on the whole shebang. cause when the top liquifies then all that stuff just works itself out.I emptied my pot one time to see if there was anything in there, and there wasn't, so I rarely do that anymore.
I use old candle wax for my fluxing, pieces about the size of my pinkie nail :D I know sounds bad LOL After you put it in if it doesn't catch fire light it with a long nose grill lighter. It helps clean the lead by bringing any oxidation or impurities to the top of the pot where they can be scraped out. And it seems the lead flows better and I'm just gonna throw the wax away anyway so it isn't costing me anything.
If you refill you pot for a second batch re-flux!! I think all bottom pours leak they get old.
I don't know if they're still doing it but at one time you could send your pot back and for half the cost of a new one you could get yours all fixed up. I did it once along time ago before I bought my second one and at that time it only cost me about $27. I may email them and find out if they're still doing this.
Fatman
To my knowledge there is nothing no more aggravating than a dripping pot..lol. I have one in the shop right now I have to fix for a bullet pouring buddy of mine. Here's my method for reworking a pot...I melt the lead that is in it. You can use the warm-up chambers on the bottom of most molds to catch your lead in to remelt. After the pot is empty and COOLS COMPLETELY, you can start the process. I take the screws out that holds the lifter arm in place and set them all to the side. I take some light sandpaper and sand the pin, paying close attention to the bottom that fits in the pouring channel. I then take a round chainsaw file and clean out the pour hole. You may have to use a old knife to get the sides, once you use it for this , keep it for this, don't start peeling apples with it again...lol. Then use the knife to scrap all the junk of the sides and anywhere else you see something that doesn't belong. After you get all the junk out and have it as clean as you can possibly get it, put it all back together and begin melting lead again. If it starts to drip while you are pouring always keep a screw driver handy to twist the plunger rod back and forth and this will usually cure the drippin' for the moment. The wire from the bottom will work too, BUT BE CAREFUL, cause it goes everywhere, and as you know, once it hits yea, YOU ARE BURNT!!!! SO BE CAREFUL and GOOD LUCK....
I just tap the rod down toward the hole a couple of times with something solid. A commercial pourer showed me this trick. Please do not move a pot with hot lead. Many pourers have been seriously injured messing around with a hot liquid pot.
all the above and... use clean lead to start with. if you fish enuff to pour your own lead i know you have a propane fish cooker. start by melting your lead into ingots using and old cast iron pot and the propane burner. cleaner lead leaves less residue. and most importantly wear gloves. it is a common misconception that the danger from lead is from inhalation. WRONG! lead inters the body thru the pores of the skin. IE,thru yer fingers and hands. wear long sleave shirts and gloves. lead is obsorbed into the blood but will not leave the liver, this is what kills you. be ye fishers of men,then you can fish everyday!
I have to agree with ya on this ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by redear
There is some good stuff in this thread, iv'e learned alot. thanks for sharing guys....kip
I rarely empty my pot. It is necessary sometimes. I did clean it this year and after 25 yrs, I thot it may be time. Usually a slight drip does not bother me, I just twist the plunger with a screwdriver and that works fine for the short run.