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I am trying to learn how to shoot docks. I have been practicing in the yard with a 5' Wally Marshall ultra light rod and reel with 6 pound test and a 1/16 jighead. I had some trouble yesterday on the lake shooting docks and I know I need more practice. I just wanted to know what type of line you may have had success with, and what size jighead you are using. Also, is that the right rod and reel I need to use? I can use any help I can get.
I'm no expert, but I use 4# test mono. It allows for more distance, especially if you downsize to 1/32 oz.
Thanks! I will try that.
I would use 6 or 8lb test fireline for added sensitivity.
Wish someone would do a writeup on dock shooting. Covering best times and what to look for. And also how to hold the jig right. Cover every section of it. Be great to add the the Articles page.
I know i would love to read it.
Pete
Docks hold fish most of the year. The key thing that I have found with dock shooting is cover all of it and around it. Last week Fish Doc and I were shootin and fish were on the outside of docks. This week on same docks they are in the shade. More shade is usually much better. As far as the equipment I like B&M sharpshooters for most. I have a 4.5', 5' and a 5.5 foot Shimano Compre on the deck most of the time. Some docks require you to fish from a distance and others you have to be close. I use 1/32 oz with some form of solid body jig on 4# test suffix hi vis. I like the slugs and baby shad. They skip real well. Holding the jig is the easy part after 1 trip. Hold the jig by the lead head with the hook towards the target. IF YOU DON'T, YOU WILL HOOK YOUR FINGER AND YOU WILL BLEED AND YOU WILL SAY BAD WORDS. As far as someone writing an article, Pope and or Pruitt are the best. Someone find out what they are using for rods, reels etc. Theses boys win alot of money doing just this. I would like to read something from them on this. Most of all have fun with it watch the line jump, you will not feel many strikes. The line will stop or jump and set the hook.Quote:
Originally Posted by ShilohRed
Hope this will helpQuote:
Originally Posted by hollidas
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Dock Shooting
These videos are located at:
http://www.youtube.com/user/CrappieBasics
To help you save time searching here are some direct links.
Dock shooting 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wVb2H...eature=related
Dock shooting 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_WrXZ...eature=related
(Photo Microsoft Clip Art)
Shooting docks is like using a bow and arrow. Hold the pole in one hand and pulling the jig back to create a bow. Hold the sides of the jig, so you don’t hook your self. Leave your reel bail open, hold your line with your index finger when creating the bow. When you have your bow created, with the bail open and holding the line with your index finger on the pole, release the jig and the line at the same time to “shoot” the jig under the dock. A 4 ˝ or 5-foot spinning rod is ideal for this technique. This requires a lot of practice and a “must-learn” skill for dock shooting. Shallow water during spawning, deep water up to 5-7 foot later on in the seasons. When shooting the docks, don’t let the boat bump the dock. Crappies are spooked easily as I have said before.
Learn to shoot, no, I don’t mean guns! It takes practice in the backyard to get good at it, like a kid learning to play baseball.......... they learn to hit! It is fun and will bring in more crappie for the dinner table.
But, here's some exerpts, of posts of mine, answering these very questions (or, at least giving my way of doing it :p )Quote:
Originally Posted by ShilohRed
To actually "shoot" a dock, with a Crappie jig - depending on the action of the rod - allow the jig to hang down to the first guide past the reel (the biggest guide on the rod) - open the bail and hold the line in the finger crease of your rod holding hand - with the other hand, grasp the head of the jig, so that the hook point is facing AWAY from that hand - pull the jig back towards you, until the rod is "loaded up" - eye your target area/entry point under the outer edge of the dock - aim with the line between the rod tip and jig (not the rod, itself) - let go of the jig ... and when it clears the end of the straightend out rod, let go of the line. (it's a timing thing, which is why "practice" is necessary). The jig should "shoot" straight towards the water's surface, at the outermost edge of the dock - hit the water, and skip back under the dock. Engage the reel and start your slow/steady retrieve - slowly lifting the rod tip up to the 10 o:clock position as you do.
Practice "shooting" at a 5gal bucket, laid on its side, from 10-20ft away. Once you can hit inside over 90% of the time - downsize your target. You may also want to test whether or not you are more accurate, shooting a jig - either, by holding the jig directly under the rod/reel (held in the conventional "reel down" position) ... or ... the "sideways" shot (holding the jig out to the side of the rod/reel, with the reel pointing towards that side/hand).
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My reply above was in reference to shooting docks & pontoons, where the window of opportunity to get a jig into the darkest/shadiest spot, is a small opening (of, say .. 1 sq ft or so). And, timing IS key to a good dock shot. You have to wait for an "instance" before letting go of the line, after letting go of the jig. The stiffer the rod you use, the faster that "instance" is ... but, letting go of the jig AND the line, at the same time - your jig isn't going ANYWHERE !! You may only have to wait tenths of a second between letting go of the line and jig --- but, you do need to let the jig go first ... THEN the line. Practice, BEFORE trying it on the water ... will not only help you hit the spots you aim for, but will also keep you from losing jigs, damaging anyones property, and give you the confidence to shoot into those dark, secluded hidey holes that big Crappie like to ambush from. ......
oh yeah ....... you want to "shoot" from as low an angle of trajectory as possible. This helps insure the jig will skip across the water's surface, and get farther back into the shaded darkness. Aim with the line, from jig to rod tip, not your rod ... as once the jig is released, it's going where you aimed it ... the rod/reel's position depends on whether you are shooting from under the rod/reel or from beside it (either one can be used ... but I like using the "under" )
Generally, I look for docks with a water depth of 10ft or more, at the front posts. I look for docks with some/all of these characteristics :
fishing boat in slip
Pontoon boat in slip, or alongside
rod holders attached
minnow bucket hanging off dock, or sitting on dock
visible brush underneath
taught wires or ropes tied to dock, and hanging down (possibly holding tree/brush)
Some "tips" :
The closer the underside of the dock is to the water's surface .. the darker the shade
The larger the deck & the more support posts it has ... the greater potential for fish to be present.
Never pass up fishing the shallow (bank side) portion of a dock, especially in Spring.
On docks with obvious clues that they're being fished "off of" (pole holders, rods with floats attached, minnow buckets, etc) ... always scan the area in front of the dock, out to a distance of a good long cast -- there may be brushpiles planted there, by the dock owner. (or there may be naturally occuring cover, such as submerged trees - stumps - weedbeds - rockpiles - dropoffs/channel edges)
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Now, I must confess ... I have edited these excerpts, to more accurately reflect how I shoot docks NOW. I wrote some of these things over 3yrs ago, and I've changed and refined my dock shooting technique. I've done it to suit me, and the lakes/docks that I use it on.
I'm currently using either of these two outfits to dock shoot with:
Quantum graphite UL rod 5ft ... foam handles/reel seat -- Shakespeare Alpha XT 1000 UL reel (casting trigger) - 4lb test Mr Crappie Super hi-vis mono
Prototype Cabela's ESP graphite UL rod 5ft ... graphite Tenn handle/cork ends/slip rings - Shakespeare Alpha XT 1000 UL reel (casting trigger) - 4lb test Mr Crappie Super hi-vis mono
My prefered jighead weight is 1/16oz, but will drop down to 1/32oz if slower fall rate is needed. I use weedless jigheads, and plastic bodies. More often than not, those plastic bodies are Panfish Assassins or Crappie Pro Solid Body Tubes.
I'm no expert on this method, but it is fun and effective (if the fish are there) and I enjoy doing it. Hope some of this helps.
... luck2ya ... cp :cool:
Thanks for all the great information. I am still practicing, and I can't wait to try all the new info. on the lake. Thanks again!
Thanks guys as always you come through every time.
pete
by the way, I would use a 5'6'' ML action rod to steer any big fish away from pillings.