CSI Cure Temps and time

Here is the last I got from CSI on the cure INFO. I will leave it as a sticky for a little while so everyone can get this.
Updated 3/4/2010.

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Alright I found the answer to my problem with the 10 minute thing. I am back to using my real oven and other than colors like Pearl which I do in the toaster oven. Also I am baking the rest for 11 minutes or maybe 12 on larger heads, say over 1/32 and this is to give time for the lead to heat up to the desired temp. You must check your over that you use with another temp gauge so you know what the temp in your over really is. There is magic as CSI calls it at the 400 degrees that makes a chemical reaction to make it hard. Also the longer you have your jig heads in the oven the darker your paint will become and I find this oh so true. I especially can see this just with my eyes on FL Red and the 11 or 12 minutes total time it comes out a great bright color, but longer some will turn a darker and not so bright and not so great IMHO!


Skip

Cure time and Temp for Powder Paint
Recommended Cure Times and Temps From CSI (Component Systems Inc.)
White*- 25 mins. @ 356F
Yellow Chartreuse* - 25 mins @ 356F
Green Chartreuse* -25 mins @ 356F
Blaze Orange* -25 mins @ 356F
Black*- 25 mins @ 356F
Hot Pink*- 25 mins @ 356F
Flame Red* -25 mins @ 356F
White Pearl- 15 mins @ 325F
Clear*- 25 mins @ 356F
Bright Green*- 25 mins @356F
Yellow*- 25 mins @ 356F
Red- 10 mins @ 400F
Purple*- 15 mins @ 356F
Glow Overcoat- 15 mins @ 375F
Brown* -25 mins @ 356F
Blue- 18 mins @ 375F
Silver- 15 mins @ 400F
Gold- 20 mins @ 375F
Watermelon Pepper15 mins @ 395F
Watermelon 15 mins @ 395F
Pumpkin Brown 16 mins @ 395F
Smoke* 25 mins @ 356F
Green Pumpkin* 25 mins @ 356F
Dark Watermelon* 25 mins @ 356F
June Bug Flake 15 mins @ 395F
Root Beer Flake 15 mins @ 395F
Watermelon Flake 15 mins @ 395F
Copperhead 15 mins @ 395F
Red Bug 15 mins @ 395F
Ruby Slipper 15 mins @ 395F
Baby Bass Green 15 mins @ 395F
Dragonfly 15 mins @ 395F
Pearl Pepper 15 mins @ 395F
Sapphire Blue 15 mins @ 395F
Black-Blue Flake 15 mins @ 395F
Glitter Topcoat Colors* 25 mins @ 356
All Standard Glow Colors- 15 min @ 375
Transparent Candy Colors* 25 mins @ 356F
Standard Glow Colors 15 mins @ 375F
Super Glow Colors* 26 mins @ 356F

* These colors may also be cured for 10 mins @ 392F to 400F..............
Curing @ higher temperatures increase possibility of excess paint running off, especially in multi-coat applications.

I just got this new cure time and temps from Component Systems/CS Coatings

Thanks for sharing. How long would you add if you put them into a cold toaster oven? It's too hard to heat it up then hang them without burning yourself. I probably need to make a rack that'll easily fit in it after it preheats.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by smoothlures

Thanks for sharing. How long would you add if you put them into a cold toaster oven? It's too hard to heat it up then hang them without burning yourself. I probably need to make a rack that'll easily fit in it after it preheats.

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What I do is add one min to the time. Matter of fact I add time as well if I am curing different colors that call for different temps. I take the lowest one and like make it 17 min instead of 15.

Skip

That's usually what I do, just add a little time. Thanks bud.

I usually cure all colors the same. Granted i have a bread cooling rack that i flip upside down and put it on top of a cookie sheet incase i got too thick with the paint. I have noticed that white is a REALLY heavy paint and will conehead on you if you dont make sure you put on the lightest coat possible.

Appreciate the info Skip.

Okay first I'll be the first to admit to being a numbnut!!! When I first started with powder paint several years ago (not telling) I used the regular stove and got a royal butt chewing from the head lady and a scrub pad and oven cleaner to make it perfectly clean (didn't spill a drop).

So here's a little tip on a cheap drying rack for jigs. Take disposable aluminum bread pans and determine the height of the pan to whatever toaster oven your using and BEFORE cutting it down to size make sure to leave a punch size rim over the height level.

You need this extra so that you can fold it in to the middle of the pan. When this portion is complete take a regular hand paper punch and go around this rim punching holes. As you powder paint your jigs you can hang them from the holes. When it's filled you put it in and do your baking of the powder.

While that batch is in you can powder coat and get more trays loaded and ready to go. No drips inside the toaster and the pans are reusable.

Fatman

I just use a cookie sheet and put some Aluminum foil on top of it to catch any mishaps.

I use the same foil for a ling time before changing it too.

Skip

I use gutter gards to hang my jigs, just bend down the sides so it will stand up. for more room cut a strip out of the middle of for more places to hang your jigs. we can coat 500 at a time like this and they are cheap at home depot

Quote:

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Originally Posted by crappieday

I use gutter gards to hang my jigs, just bend down the sides so it will stand up. for more room cut a strip out of the middle of for more places to hang your jigs. we can coat 500 at a time like this and they are cheap at home depot

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Keith,

Do you "Spoon" on the powder paint or just sprinkle it with your fingers? Is the spoon lifted in the air to so you can catch any "overflow" of the powder paint? Tell Jessica hello.

Thanks again.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by shipahoy41

Keith,

Do you "Spoon" on the powder paint or just sprinkle it with your fingers? Is the spoon lifted in the air to so you can catch any "overflow" of the powder paint? Tell Jessica hello.

Thanks again.

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Hey Shippy"try an eye dropper for the powder paint
stead a da spoon bud"more control"I know it sounds strange but wiowow"!like a pro"!!!
thank you 4 the info Skip...

I hang my jigs on a cake pan with a cloths hanger bent to make a rack. Use long nose pliers to hang and remove.
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l.../jigpan001.jpg

i heat my jigs slightly with a propane torch at lowest fire possible around 3sec.then dip jig head in jar of powder paint directly then clean out the eye as paint sets.then on to the toaster oven for curring

I use pot pie pans to hold the unpainted jigs and put them in a toaster oven and set the temperature at 300 to pre heat them. After painting them I use a short bread pan with notches cut on the top to hold a short piece or all-thread to hang the jigs after painting them. To cure the paint I put the bread pans in a toaster oven and use these time tables for baking time.

1/8oz head 350 for 15 minutes

3/32oz head 350 for 15 minutes

1/16oz head 275 for 12 minutes

1/32oz head 250 for 10 minutes

Black, pink, & white colors 25 degrees cooler and two minutes shorter.

Hope this helps some one.

This is the best of our thread on power paint you did excellent jobs in all you guys it posted your comments I learned a lot from this I have never really messed around too much with power paint it was a little bit slow for me but maybe you will go back to it after reading this

I made a rack out of coat hanger wire that fits in the little pan that came with my toaster oven, I have 3 wires going across to hang jigs from, works great and holds a lot of jigs. I heat each one with a disposable lighter then swish in my bottles of color, I have worked out how long to hold each size and shape head in the flame. Then I clean out the eye by passing a wire thru, then hang on the rack. When I get all the heads painted or pan gets full I cure them in my oven at 275 for 30 minutes (all colors and sizes). I can also use the rack for hanging jigs on as I tie. I fish a lot of bridge columns and my jigs sometimes get banged into the columns a lot, my method of painting and curing has proven to be very durable.

I read one of these post and just used an aluminum pot pie pan,bent the end over and made holes along the edge.What a great simple fix to a dilema that I have been having.Great site.Very happy that I found it.Great information.

You guys have me talked into finally painting some jigs. I only make round head jigs as of right now as a hobby, but don't paint them. I'm getting more and more into crappie fishing, so I want to get into painting them since I make them.

I have enough tips here as far as how to heat/cure them. I wanna know where is the best/cheapest place to order paints?

Thanks a lot guys!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rockbass

You guys have me talked into finally painting some jigs. I only make round head jigs as of right now as a hobby, but don't paint them. I'm getting more and more into crappie fishing, so I want to get into painting them since I make them.

I have enough tips here as far as how to heat/cure them. I wanna know where is the best/cheapest place to order paints?

Thanks a lot guys!

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Fishing Lure Making Products, Soft Plastics, Lead Molds, Hooks and more! - LureCraft
EZ to deal with

Sending PM with what I think is best place.

Skip

i has some issue on cure the jigs and it cause many conehead but i'm trying to find way how to aviod and i wonder how will u cure the 1/80 and 1/64 oz jighead ?
trying to cure all jigs through winter and get them ready for spring fishing..

any advice would be help..

thanks

Forgot to say....
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...ns/welcome.gif From Toledo Bend Texas!

Are you using a fluid bed? If you are then you are heating the head too much which is putting too much paint on. I would and do cure a 1/64 or 1/80 the same way I do a 1/4 Oz. I time it and temp it the same. Only thing is you can't heat them as long before dipping in the paint or leave it in very long. Also don't know what you heating the heads with and I use an alcohol burner which burns clean (no soot) and I keep my flame about 1 1/2"-2" tall and I count how long to heat them and you have to do this on your count and what is comfortable to you counting wise. If you use a heat gun like some I can't really help much as I don't like them even though I have 2 of them. Never what that thing making all that noise for as long as I paint each time I do paint.

About 5 years ago when I started I got some of that pointed head or some drips, but soon got past that and learned and have not had any drips in over 4 years and don't get any cone heads either. You may need to adjust the count a tiny bit for some colors and some seem to need more heat by a bit and some a little less heat for the same finish.

Skip

umm i use candle to heat a jigs but i havent find any aclchol burner anywhere and wonder where can i find one and i just finish all my tungsten pour in jigheads last night and now plan on dip the heads but i just hold it til trying to find a better heat like burner and otherthings " cheap " to buy and can put alchol in ..

They are not cheap nor high cost, but I have been looking for a better option for 5 years for the one I bought at Barlow's Tackle. It's like $15-$17 or something close and I thought that I had found a better one that was all metal, but when I got it the wick was smaller and that made for a smaller flame and since I didn't want to learn again and not even have a big enough flame for 1/4 Oz. I stayed with it and still do.

I found some on ebay too and bought one that was like a octagon shape and was happy until I found the cap didn't screw on and just pushed on. You could use one like this, but I have not tried mine to see if the alcohol I leave in it will evaporate too fast or not. I leave what ever is left in mine in it until next time.

Here is the link to the one at Barlow's Tackle and like I use and have for 5 years on the same wick.
Alcohol Burner

Skip

i have see some on ebay, and think about buy the burner and wonder u use duentard fuel ? otherwise like i say i use candle called " ultra pure liquid candle " but i'm not sure if it'll work just as heat the jigheads but been use since and fish with it and notice paint have fall off after many casting or hit somethings when catch a fish..

Don't know about your candles, but most have soot that they put off and in an alcohol lamp it like the denatured you find at the hardware store and is pretty cheap and clean. Once you pain and cure it will not chip off like you are talking about. I would think your heat sourse is putting something on the lead that it doesn't attach well to. Some use heat guns, but I don't like them. Ask Scottv in a PM as I got him to get one not long ago and he loves it.

Here is a link to his profile and you can PM him from there. http://www.crappie.com/crappie/members/scottv.html

If you powder paint right and cure them right the paint will not chip off.

Skip

I wished I had found this post before curing my first batch. I came here today for curing advice.

I watched a video on TJ's Tackle about curing which called for 350 degrees for 20 minutes and out of about 150 jigs about 30 of them had paint drip and it was only chartreuse and silver that dripped.

How durable is powder coating without curing and how many people don't cure after powder coating?

Thanks for your help with a newbie at tying.

You have to cure if you want it to last. If you don't cure and drop one on a hard floor it will crack and chip right then. If your dripped it was because there is too much paint on them. Are you using a fluid bed? If you are you may be over heating the head before you are dipping them. At that temp they will not drip if you don't have too much paint on them. If you don't have a fluid bed then your going to need to keep it fluffed after every few you paint.

If not cured it's not durable at all.

Skip

Yes Skip I do have the fluid bed and because this was my first curing I may have gotten more paint on some than the others. I thought it was funny that it only happened with the chartreuse and silver and I painted 5 different colors and over 150 at one time. I wondered if those colors had differnt properties. I used an alchohol burner as you suggested the same or as close to the same on all jigs.

I use a heat gun and I have to get it replaced already as the low setting burned out or the power button did. I get an occasional pointy tip but I use them or give those ones to the nephew. On a low setting I count to 4 on each side of a
1/16th oz head. I've found that after you dip if it comes out looking like powder wipe it off and re-do it, or use the heat gun on it you can usually tell if you have too much before curing.

I've been getting into adding glitter lately and that will change curing times I drop to 325 for 25 minutes and it works good.

Black uses to be the one I would get too much paint on when I first started, would even get some drips on the tin foil I started using to catch any of that and several others I could't consistently get a good coating. Eventually I quite having any that made drips or getting too much pint on the heads. I do have a counting system for each weight head and I don't go by seconds, just a count rhythm that is easy for me. Also I have learned to not just dip them, but to have some side to side movement when in the paint so I get a more equal paint coat on all sides.

I still love the alcohol burner and actually just got a new one from Barlow's again. The first one I have used for 6 years or so and the first time I used it I got the lid on too tight and had to get a wrench to remove it and messed the lid up as well as the little metal thing that the whack goes through so I have been fighting that for all this time and the new one makes me so much happier as I don't have any issues with it. I do have 2 heat guns actually and one I bought for another product, but tried them for a couple minutes of jig head painting and hated it. So that is my only experience with a heat gun. As far as heat temp and time even with glitter since the glitter I bought is from CSI and good to go with heat I still cure most at 392 to 395 and for 12 - 13 minutes. Since I have gone to the lower minutes I notice that I get a more equal color or shade on FL Red because I use to always get a few that got darker, but now all seem to come out right and bright.

I guess I have too much time or lazy. My toaster oven came with a rack I load about 30 heads at a time I support the rack on a couple of chunks of 2x4 load it up and slide the rack in. timer goes off and use gloves and shake rack off on OLD towel reload and repeat. By the time all the outside of the eyes are cured. I have put the pupils on the eye from the first batch and reload the rack. when I am using powder paint, I heat the head over an alcohol lamp, already pliers or hemostat on jig and dip into jar of paint . The jig will only hold a certain amount of paint so I don't have any drips of paint. Again I am only doing 100 at a time, Too much time i guess.

Only thing is when you cure the paint and do the oven thing longer than their times, some of the paint will get darker and for sure Flame Red will not look right at all with too
kich oven time.