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Updating & Upgrading the 184DC Champion
I've been working in the background on the Champion to better conform it to my operation and use habits I expect my boats to be able to do.
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Since the boat came with the steering wheel style you can remove the wheel from the hub I did that first. Then pulling the Hub retaining nut & Hub was next. You have to drill holes for the control wires to pass thru the Dash so after that the three screws are removed from the Helm Pump, the Dual Toggle Switch control installed using the replacement screws provided with the switch kit. I installed a Dual unit as next winter I plan on adding a Bobs Machine Hydraulic Jackplate.
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Removing the Steering Wheel was a real bonus for replacing the old Control Cables with new ones and adding a Hot Foot. If you look at the picture you can see the Remote Control is inside the Gunnel and very difficult to remove. I found when removing the Control all the sandwiching screws was loose and the source for my perceived sticking Control Cables but I had new ones so I installed them.
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Here is a picture of the Steering Wheel and new top load Hot Foot.
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The retaining nut for the Control Handle is a Bear to re-install I had to do some tricky trick to complete.
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utilizing some old Butyl from building the shop I packed it inside a socket then shoved the retaining nut into it to stick the Nut in place for me to install. Works like a charm.
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The new Control Cable Jackets match the boat too. Next is refinishing the Cockpit Deck for in preparation for adding the SeaDek.
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Sealing and Refinishing the Cockpit Deck
I still have a bunch of lite blue SeaDek and the non-skid finish currently applied is flaking off in spots. Not wanting a water leak to develop I figured the best approach would be to remove the old finish, skim the deck till completely fair, prime & paint with a high quality 2K Urethane, and complete the job with SeaDek.
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Using various sanders and grinders I stripped off the old deck finish.
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The new Hot Foot was in the way so up on the gunnel it went.
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I use Evercoat Rage Gold Bondo mixed with a little Polyester resin for a fairing compound on a task like this. Forever this method has worked flawlessly.
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Flawlessly till Disaster Happens! Some of the materials in my shop has had too many birthdays. The Gold Rage Bondo with the Polyester added only cured about 1/2 hard and stopped. For a couple of days I have had a heater on it trying to get it to finish but it just is old material. If you look at the sanding disc & grinding disc you will see I had to remove all of the skimming compound ruining quite a bit of sanding supplies in the process. Everybit of the compound had to be removed. I went and bought a new gallon of bondo ($132 today) and started re-skimming. My old can was so old Evercoat had changed their labels on the can. I should have the deck ready for primer by the end of the day.
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Recovery! The Deck Fairing is Done
The Cockpit Deck is as smooth as a Baby's bottom now. It was a few hours of battle, time lost due to using old resins. After going over the entire deck with a HID light I couldn't find a single pinhole in the fairing.
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Now more fun, Masking everything up. Since replacing the carpet under the two consoles is planned I will just shoot the 2K Primer - Surfacer - Sealer down without worrying about that carpet. I guess it will serve as a kinda mask as I will rip it out carefully afterwards and use each piece for a pattern to cut the replacement. You just have to keep in mind which direction the grain of the carpet is running when cutting replacement pieces.
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I hit my usual 4pm Wall so I just stopped right here and will pick up the masking task early in the morning. All the work is in the prep. It won't take an hour to do all the spraying even allowing adequate flash time between coats in the cool air.
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Cutting and Painting the Black Transition
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I laid out the transition lines on the Deck first. It really didn't matter if I dripped any black out in the middle since it will all be covered in SeaDek but the edges will show since I need a drain area for water run off. I'm working on the SeaDek pattern design so rain water is channeled directly to the Deck Drains. The forward Deck Drain seems unnecessary so I may just blank it off. If a wave comes over the bow additional deck drains exist in the Aft Vertical Bulkhead to allow the water to drain. I can't see where the forward drain will prevent the boat from being swamped if that much water is inside.
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With the black cut in the project is looking up. I have been cleaning up the over spray as well as putting the new hopped up 90 powerhead on and reassembling the engine on my Blazer. Multi-tasking is not my strong suit, I generally do 1 thing at a time. All the interior carpet will be replaced along with all the Edge Trim so it doesn't matter for now how it looks now.
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Relocating the Nav Lite & Trim Panel Adding Mega Live & 360 Panel
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The existing Nav Lite & Trim Panel was right under my Plotter so I wanted to more it over to a spot where a existing hole was under the TM Base. To do that the first thing I did was take pictures of the wiring. The old panel holder was made out of something recycled and I wanted to make another out of 5052 marine aluminum sheet anyway.
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After soldering a extension harness long enough to not put a strain on the connections from being suspended in the air across the front I took the time here to also cut a hole for the 360 & Transducer wiring to pass thru and the rear of the TM base. This allowed me to neatly secure the 360 cabling, Y-Cabling, & Transducer cabling under the deck and out of the way.
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Here is a picture of the relocated Nav Lite and Trim panel and the new access cut behind the TM base.
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I pulled the Mega Live & Mega 360 power wires up thru their new panel location and carefully cut the outer insulation back exposing the 12V+ red wires so I could cut and add Ring terminals to both. The Shield & Shield wires remained intact along with the 12V- wires. Securing the area with tywraps afterwards landing the power leads on the switch panel before installing.
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Now both Power Switches are located right under the Plotter Unit.
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I chose a different design of Clamshell to cover the support wiring opening finishing it off. Being composite the jury is still out as to how well it holds up to UV but I am liking the shape as it doesn't squeeze the fragile transducer wiring.
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Installing SeaDek To the Cockpit Deck
I was looking to get this boat done before I needed to drive to Ross Barnett and plug in the oil heater in our camper but it's looking pretty cold there next week.
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First things first a layout was needed, something that channeled water to the drain while not creating a snag that later may need fixing. The plan is to leave a water path where the tape is applied. I'm covering the front drain hole for now and most likely will deck plate over it.
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Beginning with a gross size rectangle I laid out a mirror image of what's needed due to working from the backside. To further complicate the job the starboard console base is square but the port console base has 1/2in or run-out to the inside. So I had to reduce the port side 1/2in - 38 inches from the forward most edge. To add icing on the cake so to speak the drain is not even close to being centered. I have to pull a rabbit out of the hat and try to blend all this crooked, off-center features into a straight looking SeaDek application. Since the SeaDek backing is very slick just holding the straight edge is not enough when cutting, masking tape was applied to help steady the ruler.
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I trimmed this corner a bit more to blend the two beginnings of the transitions straight looking. The starboard console edge is 3/4's of a inch further aft than the port console edge.
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Once the gross cutting was laid down on the deck I could figure out where to trim the corners.
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I just freehand a bevel on using a 3in right angle air grinder and a "new" blue scotch-brite surfacer disc.
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A starting point must be scribed into the backing paper where you can fold a "starting point" for applying the SeaDek when using whole sheets like I am.
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Once the exact location of the SeaDek is figured out you mask the material down to the deck on one end. This is your application guide. Now don't think the SeaDek can't still get a mind of it's own which is good as slight corrections can still be made if needed before fully sticking down. Once it touches the deck - game over that is where it stays.
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The first piece is down. The center had to go down first since I'm working off of it to SeaDek under the two consoles.
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Using Acetate to make a pattern (always write on it and apply a arrow or label for the front) I reverse the side of the pattern when transferring it to the SeaDek sheet material. Still using the same method to cut the material and bevel to prepare it for application.
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I was able to do a little tweaking to the starboard side pattern, make some notes where I needed to allow extra material, etc to make the port console SeaDek piece.
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I came out looking pretty straight considering nothing was straight to work to.
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Finally Finished Installing the Hot Foot
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Big day getting the installation and adjustment of the Hoot Foot done. The way it is screwed to the deck I will never have to worry about a water leak rotting the deck as the SeaDek makes a permanent gasket.
