Pays to find a COMPETENT + HONEST boat motor mechanic

The following may be of use for those that own outboard motor boats.
This year was an expensive nightmare getting my 40hp Merc and 2.5hp Merc fixed so each would start!!!

Took both to FOUR separate mechanics and after a few outings after each, neither would start. I had tried to start the motor at the dock and it wouldn't turn over though I had it out the day before. When motors don't start, two questions come up:
1. bad starting battery and/or
2. stator/regulator not charging (in the case of the 40hp)

One thing about the Tracker I bought used, was what i found out was a bad starting battery. But not having it tested, I asked if it was the stator (alternator in a car). I didn't get a straight answer but then asked if the battery was tested under a load - which wasn't done.
Note: Terminal voltage reads different without a power draw, i.e from a battery just sitting there.
Note: a deep cycle battery should maintain a storage voltage of 12.4v. If it drops to 12v or less, it's a bad battery.

The new battery was attached to accessory wires but not the motor. He charged me big time ($190) for it! Note: I found that I could attach a lawn mower battery costing far less to the accessories and have no problem.

(The 2.5hp motor had a gas tank vent valve that wasn't working and caused pressure in the tank, flooding the carburetor. Plus, old gas used early in the season, gunked up the jets.)

The mechanic told me that Trackers over 5 years usually ran off one battery running trolling motor, accessories and motor. MY used Tracker came with 3 batteries - two of which were no good. So, he connected the motor to the new staring battery and attached the accessories to a small lawn tractor battery I provided from a friend that didn't need it.

40hp Motor starts fine - EVERY TIME!! Now I'm waiting for parts for the 2.5hp and that should do well.

Note: he suggested using non-ethanol gas for the 2.5 which is usually a higher octane (91), but also to use a small bit of Startron gas stabilizer for long storage.

Close to $1000 spent, not including gas for towing over 100 mi. and all because of simple ol' incompetence and work done/ not guaranteed. Bad enough I couldn't use either from Sept. - Oct. and had to rely on my small 10' + 62 lb thrust trolling motor. (Man, that thing moves!!!)

We are lucky in Central Illinois as we have an excellent choice to get your boat serviced. Chip's Marine in Sullivan, great mechanic and owner.

The man I went to at the advice of a friend is call Capt. Dan. He's giving me a T-shirt with his logo on it so I can wear it to club meetings and on the lakes I fish. I will warn everyone that has a boat and motor to be careful of the jokers that ripped me off.

A few years back, I had an 14' aluminum boat and had bought an 18hp Evinrude at an estate sale. Asked on here, C.C of a good outboard mechanic in the area. Thankfully I was referred to a good one who got my outboard right, and didn't cost me a fortune. Unfortunately, He has had some major health set backs, and no longer works on outboards. So I'll be hunting for another when I need one again. Glad to hear you found a good on in your neck of the woods.

Cost me $800 for two motors that needed a lot of work and parts from Mercury. He showed me the parts he replaced and explained why they were preventing the motors from starting. Well worth the money and a guarantee to bring back either if there is a problem. I'll tell club members at the next meeting to warn them and pass out his cards if asked as well as wear his T shirt.

What a relief!

I only run top tier fuel from a place that moves a lot of volume; that assures my fuel is fresh. I always use a fuel stabilizer, and from time to time I run some Seafoam or Berrymans thru it too, maybe a time or two a year. Mine is a 1993 Mercury 115 4 carb two stroke. My long time belief with old two strokes is at each outing, at some point once warmed up pretty good, you need to wind 'em up full throttle pretty good for a time, if the water is smooth enough that day and if I feel comfortable with it. I usually do that on my way back thru an area I am familiar with, with no hazards observed in the water there. I only run NGK Iridium Spark Plugs that always look excellent at plug checks a couple of times a year. I replaced my fuel lines a few years ago with new hoses that meet the newest standards for above/below deck standards, and installed a nice fuel filter/water separator with a clear bowl on the bottom where I can see if I get any water or trash in it, and it has a little drain to remove any water if any is seen (Not yet). I insist on running my boat at least once a month, especially thru the winter, long term sitting up is just not kind to old two strokes.
For those of us with electric starts, I advise keeping a small jump starter in your boat, mine also has an inflator in it too. Never know when you might be alone and need it, or meet someone who needs it. Far safer and easier than jumper cables! I also keep 'em in all my vehicles - can even charge your phone with it.
Just trying to stay one step ahead of the next break down!
And yes, it pays to find a good mechanic, for sure. I posted a while back about one I found; indeed all boat mechanics are not good, honest mechanics!

I like your recommendations! Here is a synopsis:
1. top tier fuel
2. fuel stabilizer and from time to time during the year
3. run Seafoam or Berryman's maybe a time or two a year.
4. you need to wind 'em up full throttle for a time (on the water)
5. NGK Iridium Spark Plugs - check them a couple of times a year
6. installed a nice fuel filter/water separator (to prevent expensive carburetor problems)
7. I insist on running my boat at least once a month, especially thru the winter
8. keep a small jump starter in your boat (especially for electric start)

Indeed, all boat mechanics are not good, honest mechanics!

Pays to find one and stick with him (or her) and dump those that aren't!

Forgive me, just a few more - if I may:
- Check your tire pressures regularly, including the spare.
- At least once a year, I like to jack up the trailer enough to get the wheel off the ground, and give it a good spin as I listen and feel for any looseness or rumble. Once I found a bad bearing that had one roller broken and just tumbling around in there. It had not given any indication of any issue at all. I bought two "Hub Kits" and replaced them both (The old ones were over 20 years old, and kept well greased). Check both sides, of course.
- When I tow my boat, I put my "Jack In The Box" in the back of my truck - contains everything I would need to deal with a flat quickly and safely - Wheel scotches, Jack, Milwaukee Cordless impact with sockets, good flashlight, Safety Glasses, Gloves, and knee pads. I have changed flats for others who did not have what they needed at a bad time. When I park my boat in the garage, the "Jack In The Box" goes in the front of the boat. Whatever you think could be helpful, just add it to the box. Be prepared!

A small PSA for you guys. When storing an old carbed 2stroke... Unplug your fuel line and run it completely out of fuel. After it runs out start it until it doesn't try to fire up. I do this anytime my boat is going to be sitting for an extended time. Drying those carbs will save you from paying to have them cleaned.

A problem/solution that worked for me, where I didn't have to take my boat to the shop:
I bought my boat from an older friend that purchased it new in '93. In His later years, He didn't run the boat a lot those last few years, it spent a lot of time in the garage. I tuned it up and run several tanks of gas thru it, but every time I brought it home and put in the garage it had a strong gas smell that the wife didn't like {Especially because She parked beside it). A small amount of fuel would drip out of the carbs with the motor tilted up on the transom saver on the back of the boat. I would wipe it off, but this problem would persist for a couple of weeks or so. Same if the motor was not tilted. I figured I would have to have carbs rebuilt, 4 of them, 2 without idle circuits (idles on 2 carbs).
Before biting that bullet, I decided to give Techron Fuel Treatment a try. I poured in TWICE the recommended treatment along with a fresh full tank of premium fuel, headed to the river, and ran those 22 gallons of treated fuel thru it on a beautiful day, at all kinds of speeds, idle, mid throttle, and "Skint Back Mode". Came home, removed cowl, degreased and washed off motor, (Covered electrical) allowed to dry, and parked it in the garage.
GAS SMELL WAS GONE.
And, it has never returned. Something must have been sticking in a carb, whatever, but it is gone now.
Your milage may vary, but it is worth a try if anybody has a similar issue.
The previous owner had the carbs rebuilt a few years before, and it was a lot of money. This method is worth a try, in my opinion.
Now, I run fuel with a stabilizer always, and add Berryman's or Seafoam a time or two a year. (And Top Tier Fuel always). Fresh counts, too.
A good boat mechanic is great, but mine stays busy, and may take a few weeks to get things done. I like to do what I can to keep my boat in service to the best of my ability - and save some money in the process!

A good one might cost you but if they are truly good & honest both you're better off in the long run.

I did boat/motor repairs for 29 years and a few months.

I find that a lot of customers had their stuff at the local shade-tree mechanic's place, before coming to me.

Certified YouTube mechanics tell people how to fix stuff, but the majority of the time they don't tell the whole story. Then so-and-so up the road who's got a bit of a mechanical apitude thinks he can fix boat motors using the certified youtube mechanic's videos as his or her training. Adding insult to injury these shade-tree's don't have any kind of guarantee on their work. So they are being trained by subpar hack jobs that post because it makes them feel less worthless, and then pass that information onto everyone else, who takes it as the gospel truth. As a FACTORY trained tech, I can say with certainty that nothing beats experience combined with factory training. Big deal, right? Factory trained means they went to whatever town, partied, and called it a "school". No, that stuff is grueling. You learn, or you go home and pout because you failed, then move onto working on lawn mowers or something else that it easier for you to do. I paid that price a couple times a year from 1992 through 2020. In 2019, I was in DFW doing training there, I lived alone and had to pay a house-sitter to come take care of the animals and watch the house. She called me on day #4 (of 5) and said water came out of the garage door whenever she went to go in the house. Great, nobody there, no neighbors for a few miles...I told her just leave it alone, I'll deal with it when I get home. Exam day was day #5 so I had to be there. I did that, and hurried home-6 hour drive-to find that when she left the day before, she must have used the bathroom, the valve in the toilet didn't shut off, and she stumped the toilet...so it was overflowing, went everywhere. Every wall every ounce of flooring, etc-all junk. So the cost of that training went far beyond what the actual training cost. This one was thousands of dollars. If you have family, you're away from family for a week or two or however long, which is also a "cost". This is all why I keep preaching for online training. it costs the mfgr's less and costs the techs and dealers a lot less too.

I'm fortunate to have the place and knowledge to do all of it myself; although a lot of times I don't want to.