Gunnel SeaDek & Rod Holders for Champion

Since my new 184 Champion is a dual console jig poles will need to ride on the gunnels. To accomplish this the gunnels need to be covered with SeaDek. Fortunately I happen to have a bunch of lite Blue SeaDek in stock. The first step is patterning the gunnels.

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On the cutting table using .005 Acetate I layout 2 rough oversized pattern pieces. The SeaDek is 77in long so I mark 77 inches on each pattern piece. Since the widest part of the gunnel is less than 8 inches I go 9 inches wide at the Stern to 7 inches wide at the Bow.

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Once cut I roll them up and head to the boat. I double the straight edges to reach the full length of the pattern pieces to mark where to cut.

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Using a 14ft jig pole I first figure out how are forward from the Stern will it reach and place masking tape there. Then move up 77 inches and place another piece of tape. Once done I measure another 77 inches up for the last piece of masking tape. Now SeaDek shrinks so you want to leave a gap between the two pieces so when it shrinks later you don't notice it.

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I use the straight edges to keep the pattern markings as straight as possible but if you look at the picture where I'm working around the Stbd console I freehand around the radius keeping the pen on the flat part of the gunnel but tracing right around where the fiberglass starts to roll up to the console. Once you get to the curved area of the gunnel gripping the pen and holding the tip where you want the SeaDek to follow the curve you pull your elbow backwards while your fingers follow the curve. It is surprisingly easy to follow the radius right around to the beginning of a straight line.

I missed a picture, a Reel Holder like this will be mounted on each side as well as I will need to add a piece of brake metal somewhere in the back to keep the rod tips inside the boat.

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Great work and detailed explanation. Thanks for posting

Looks good Rojo. May come in handy shortly...

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Originally Posted by BuckeyeCrappie

Great work and detailed explanation. Thanks for posting

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More to come Sir, I hate multi-tasking but that is the definition of this day. I have both sides cut out but need to bevel all the pieces before installing. I'm making a set of the Outboard rod Holders for the Skeeter too.

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Originally Posted by Jamesdean

Looks good Rojo. May come in handy shortly...

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Hopefully sooner than we think. I'm going to bring the Champ to the Rez till the Tripletail start showing up well out front. I think I'm going to put a Fly in front of a hungry Tripletail this summer just for a twist. They really eat well too.

I started at 5am making a Pizza Crust dough before starting in on the Champion.

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I use a straight edge to work the lines straighter before cutting. Any line that can be cut using a straight edge I use one but these patterns had to be cut out with scissors.

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To explain you first make sure your patterns fit before flipping the SeaDek over for cutting. Since you are cutting from the bottom the patterns must also be flipped. This is why we write all over the patterns to help keep in mind which way is right side up. If the print is backwards you're good to go. I use a Olfa knife as they do not bend like cheap cutters do. While applying enough pressure to cut almost all the way thru you use your Back muscles to pull the knife rearward while maintaining a locked wrist & elbow. This helps you to cut straight. Once you through cutting a piece mark it well before moving on to the next piece. Once you make a pass bend the SeaDek revealing the cut to carefully cut the rest of the way thru. If you hold your fingertips too close to the cut line you will cut yourself using one of these knives.

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For ascetics I placed the blue tape where I need to trim the end here so my two pieces end cuts will be parallel. Now the slight runout on the cuts you see will disappear as soon as I bevel. Very hard to see a slight wave in the cuts once beveled and installed. ON the topside of the SeaDek never use the green masking tape as it can pull the dot finish off when removed.

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After checking to see if the patterns work for the opposite side by laying the already cut SeaDek upside down on the Port side I cut the two pieces for the Port side too.
You want to be sure and label well just what that pattern is for before storing.

Very nice. Your experience shows with everything you do.

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Well as always the first task is patterning. Here I've cut a piece of cardboard out large enough for me to layout the Reel Support and allow enough extra aluminum for the outside tabs to be bend up to prevent the reels from sliding off overboard.

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After rough cutting it out I ran the curves on the bandsaw before bending up the Tabs.

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I have a good fit but this is just part of the fabrication. All the edges must be radiused, aluminum prepped for Black 2K Urethane, holes drilled and counter sunk so after installation SeaDek can be applied along with edge trim. This design I came up with on the Blazer build to prevent the Reel Support from hanging on docks and such.

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That is a 14ft jig pole completely inside the gunnel of the boat. A pair of these allows 4 jig poles up to 14ft to be carried.

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Checking the fit on the Stbd side Reel Support it looked very good so moving forward was to properly prepare both supports for painting. All the edges were radiused, both were sanded with a 320 grit, mill oils were removed before sanding so not to grind it further into the metal. Make a note to the length as this length is before cutting them down.

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This is what I'm working towards except the new reel supports are one piece. The reel support pictured is the first ones I made.

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My bud installed very nice folding cleats over the original cleats so two sets of screw holes exist. After checking the length of the new reel supports I didn't need the full length of the reel supports as fabricated so I cut them down to just cover these holes and stop there. Silicone will be used as a grout securing the reel supports locking down movement.

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This is the pair after cutting down in size.

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The pair is first painted with PPG Refinish JP375 Epoxy Primer then topcoated with PPG Refinish JP 2K Urethane. I need to wait a couple of days for curing before installing.

I rolled on boats again today. Also put more screws in the roof, I don't think I will be done with that for a while. Anyway here is what was completed.

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For the Rod Tip section supports to keep them from extending out off the gunnel I cut & radiused 4 16in 1x1x1/16 angle. After prepping for paint I used VHT Roll Cage paint. I have found if you use their primer before spraying on aluminum small pieces like these will last a long time.

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I am using Gorilla Glue Double Stick Tape to attach the Tip Retainers to the hull.

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After drilling and countersinking the mounting holes for the Reel Supports black marine silicone was laid down as a grout as well as a sealer as I'm only using 4 screws per side to hold the Reel Supports on.

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I only have a couple of things left. 4 straps will be used, 2 per side to secure the rods to the gunnels and I have to pattern the Reel Supports for SeaDek and get the SeaDek installed. At this point I think this boat is going to Ross Barnett.

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We all have fishing pliers that get rusty after a while of use well these are a few years old. I use a surfacing disc to polish the pliers down to clean shiny metal and give them a coat the either the VHT Epoxy Black or the Roll Cage Black. After 5-6 months of use I will clean them up and paint again.

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Looks good Rojo!

While beveling the SeaDek I was having a bit of trouble staying smooth with the grinder. I think I'm at capacity and need to slowdown before a real mistake happens. I'm waiting at least a week before heading to The Rez so the Reel Supports don't have to be done today or tomorrow.

I wonder….go you think you could possibly bevel the SeaDek with a router on high speed? :dono

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Originally Posted by BuckeyeCrappie

I wonder….go you think you could possibly bevel the SeaDek with a router on high speed? :dono

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The black & green Blazer SeaDek came out perfect. I'm having issues with both thumbs not working due to re-screwing our roof along with other responsibilities. Not a equipment issue as much as it's a physical problem with my hands. Routers work great but a wooden template must be made first for each piece. Too slow, my method is very fast I just can't keep up with it.