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I have Garmin 93 with a gt54 transducer that is on a Minn Kota Terrova trolling motor. Everytime i turn or change speeds on trolling motor I get bad interference on my garmin. They are on seperate batteries and I have a ferrite bead on the cable. I know I want get all of the interference out but what can I do to make it better?
Can you describe the interference please. Pictures would be great. What screens do you see problems? Turning the motor on side or down looking sonar can cause some odd perturbations of the image. Do the problems clear when the motor stops moving or do artifacts remain on the screen for a while?
Same questions regarding changing speed. Any interference when the motor goes on or off?
With any noise issues on an MK, check the fuse in the head of the motor.
Are the wires routed together?
I had interference with my Fortrex and Lowrance units. I used the US 2 for 2d and a LSS 1 mounted on the trolling motor and the interference showed up on all screens. I tried moving wires, checked the fuse in the head of the TM, ferrite chokes from radio shack and finally the big one from Minn Kota, nothing worked. I just lived with it until I got my Ghost, no more interference.
I've read that a non-current carrying ground will help, but at the time I was running the Fortrex I didn't know that, so I can't say if it'll work or not.
Justinp61 is on the right track if this is an aluminum boat. It's actually called "bonding". You need to bond the trolling motor to the hull of the boat. This can be done via a wire from the negative of trolling motor battery to the negative of the boat battery.
Take your TM to a certified Minn Kota repair center and have them install an internal ground if you haven’t already.
Should take care of your problem
Explain the fuseQuote:
Originally Posted by CatFan
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Never never and i mean NEVER ground a battery to your hull. EverQuote:
Originally Posted by MDCrappie
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Minn Kota comes with an internal ground. It is in the foot and is connected to the ground at the brush holder. Atleast it should beQuote:
Originally Posted by striperking
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That will be tough, since the outboard and trolling motor both connect their battery negative to the hull of the boat.Quote:
Originally Posted by catchNreeleaze
Not sure what to explain. There is a fuse in the head of the motor. If it blows, the noise reducing circuit quits working.Quote:
Originally Posted by catchNreeleaze
I assure you mine does not.Quote:
Originally Posted by CatFan
Do you understand the hazard of it?
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Being an electrical engineer, first, I can assure your motors absolutely connect battery negative to your hull, and that there is no hazard to it.Quote:
Originally Posted by catchNreeleaze
Quote:
Originally Posted by CatFan
Where is the ground connection usually placed?Quote:
Originally Posted by CatFan
Where the equipment bolts to the hull. Grounded metal bolted to the metal hull makes an electrical connection in addition to the physical connection.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tradbow
I mounted the engine myself.Quote:
Originally Posted by catchNreeleaze
So having the entire hull as a ground and accidentally crossing it with positive of that battery proposes no hazard.
For example sake lets says your back there working and wearing a ring. You accidentally touch the side of the hull with a wrench that you are tightening the positive side.
Heavens forbid the battery is in the sump with the gas tank. Then the fact that ring is going to cause severe injury becomes less of a concern.
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If you know enough to mount an engine, you know that you never, ever put a wrench on a battery positive terminal until the negative wire has been disconnected on a negative ground system. Negative comes off first and goes on last.Quote:
Originally Posted by catchNreeleaze
I also know enough to never ground the hull of aluminum boat to the battery. You seem to have taken offense. My message was only posted as advice.Quote:
Originally Posted by CatFan
Tight lines and fish on
PS i am not an EE. But I raised a daughter that wired Artemis and a son that does maintence for a company that builds jet engines for planes and sattelites.
My opion is worth what you pay for it here. Nothing.
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Not sure where to start, because that is not what I said, but you are also incorrect...................do some research on grounding vs bonding and then come back and tell me what I advised was incorrect.Quote:
Originally Posted by catchNreeleazeNever never and i mean NEVER ground a battery to your hull. EverQuote:
Originally Posted by MDCrappie
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Now what you should NOT do would be to add an accessory to an aluminum boat, such as a 12volt outlet, and connect only the positive lead to the center pin and then rely on the physical connection of the outlet itself to the alum to be utilized as the ground. Connecting a battery negative terminal to the hull of the boat is not the same as using the hull to ground an accessory. Hope this makes sense.
I have learned about bonding and bonding strips
Bus bar is what we call them
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Now you're making it more confusing. A "Bus Bar" would be the object that you run all of your grounds (or positives) to, not to be confused with bonding.Quote:
Originally Posted by catchNreeleaze
Here is the information i learned.Attachment 500567
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Reasons to NOT use Google AI as your primary source of education. Crazy some of the messed up "work" I've seen done on boats/cars. I used to say to myself "How did they think this was a good idea?"Quote:
Originally Posted by catchNreeleaze
Now I know why............
Seems the OP has disappeared so hopefully he has gotten his issues worked out.
There i was thinking my screenshot proved you right and me wrong.Quote:
Originally Posted by MDCrappie
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Minn Kota has not always put the internal ground in there motorsQuote:
Originally Posted by catchNreeleaze
It’s according to how old his motor is as to when they started installing them from the factory
I’ve had the same problem he is having in the past and there was no internal ground in the motor
I took mine to a authorized dealer and they installed one and the interference went away
Re-read the 2nd and 3rd sections in your screenshot. They pretty much directly contradict each other.Quote:
Originally Posted by catchNreeleaze
2nd - Always connect the battery cable to the engine block (or designated bonding point) to properly bond the electrical system. (1 says bonding is connecting all metal parts to equalize potential)
3rd - Directly connecting the battery negative to the hull can cause corrosion issues, especially on aluminum boats.
So 2nd says to connect the negative terminal to motor and connect that to the aluminum hull.
3rd says you shouldn't connect the negative terminal to the hull.
The boat needs to be grounded through engine. Attachment 500571Quote:
Originally Posted by MDCrappie
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IMO, issues in aluminum boats arise when the boat is used as a ground. Unless there is something I haven't seen, (and that is a distinct possibility) there is no way to install an outboard with electric start/charging system on an aluminum boat without having continuity between the battery negative and the boat hull. Again, IMO the key is not using the hull as a ground path to the battery.
My Fortrex had the internal ground with a fuse. The fuse never blew, and I never got rid of interference no matter where the wires were run or how many chokes were on the wires. How the noise from the 24v TM found its way to 12v system, I can only guess. My guess is that the trolling motor ground also had continuity to the hull and when the TM was running the 12v system picked up the noise. The brushless TM fixed it.
This 100%. Never use the hull as the return path (ground) for accessories. The negative terminal is connected to the hull (bond not ground) and also to a "bus bar". You should have a ground wire for each accessory running to the bus bar.Quote:
Originally Posted by justinp61
My situation was the opposite. My older Minn Kota (24v) did not have an internal ground. When I used the TM it would cause a blacked out line on my lowrance. When I would let off the pedal it would go away. I ran a 16ga wire from my negative terminal on the starting battery to the negative terminal of the trolling motor. No more blacked out line when TM was used.
On a PWM motor, radio frequency noise is radiated through the air. Pretty strong signal and very broad band. Couples into wiring and directly into electronics.Quote:
Originally Posted by justinp61
My transducer is on the transom and I was getting terrible TM interference, even with separate batteries. I moved the wires to make sure nothing crossed the TM power wires and still had it. Someone on a Facebook group asked if I had a multibank charger attached. Sure enough I did. I disconnected the charger from my electronics battery and that fixed the issue. Might be worth checking if you have a multi-bank chargerQuote:
Originally Posted by Dbarrentine
Especially true if the charger is a NOCO.Quote:
Originally Posted by checkerfred
I installed a “Choke” (the Humminbird one, even though mine is a Lowrance) and it stopped the interference for me at least. Installed it right at the battery where my trolling motor and electronics are powered from.
Attachment 501006
Heres the link to it: https://humminbird.johnsonoutdoors.c...e-interference
Cost is ~$25. Might be worth a try?? Good Luck!