Ford Guru Needed

I have a 1995 F150 with a 5.0, 4spd overdrive automatic. My problem started this past winter. Truck sits outside in driveway, no garage. We had a brutally cold snap for about a week here, and it wasn't started nor moved. When I did go to the store, the check engine light came on, and the truck wouldn't shift past 2nd gear. I broke out my el cheapo code reader for OBD1 and No codes. Still wont shift past 2nd gear. Starts, runs, has plenty of power just not past 2nd gear.
Can someone suggest what to check besides the tranny pluid as I already did that and it's fine.
Oh yea, I almost forgot, this is a 5 yr old replacement, rebuilt tranny.

It could be a number of things but if I had my guess I would say the direct drum as failed. It could also be computer related whereas the unit isn’t sending the signals to the tranny to shift properly.

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Originally Posted by BuckeyeCrappie

It could be a number of things but if I had my guess I would say the direct drum as failed. It could also be computer related whereas the unit isn’t sending the signals to the tranny to shift properly.

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AH the wonders of all the COMPUTER controlled JUNK they're putting on them and it gets worse every year. JMO :Doh:

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Originally Posted by wannabe fisherman

AH the wonders of all the COMPUTER controlled JUNK they're putting on them and it gets worse every year. JMO :Doh:

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I totally agree. I miss the days of lifting the hood and actually being able to see an engine. Between all the electric gizmo's and plastic covers for this or that...If I could find an 1969 C20 4 door with an 8' bed, I'd go in debt upto my ears for it. But, alas, it don't exist....

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Originally Posted by Jamesdean

I totally agree. I miss the days of lifting the hood and actually being able to see an engine. Between all the electric gizmo's and plastic covers for this or that...If I could find an 1969 C20 4 door with an 8' bed, I'd go in debt upto my ears for it. But, alas, it don't exist....

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I had one with everything you're asking for.........except just 2 doors. Had the "Camper Special" package. 1 ton suspension 4 Speed tranny with stump puller 1st.Attachment 488981

:yikes What a beautiful truck

Got me salivating for sure. Back when my second wife and I split I lost '69. Need some paint but was solid. I found it in someone's yard with a for sale sign on it, asking $500. Had a worked 350 motor auto trans. The, I called them traction bars, were a bit holy, but worked well enough. didn't have to worry about traction one bit. I believe the bed rusted out at some point, and the previous owner got a piece of 1/4" steel plate, cut the wheel well slots out and bolted the bed to it. Never had a traction problem, no matter the weather. Rain, Snow, Ice it went. For two wheel drive, I never had trouble. Hind site 20/20, which I'd kept that ole truck.

Speed sensor perhaps.. had one go out on a 99 Ranger I owned. It pretty much did the exact same thing.

I called a trans. shop up the street from me a bit. $90 to diagnose the problem. Also checked online just in case, A reman trans. shipped to a business, (I'm thinking pick it up at freight dock of trucking company), including shipping $2540.00. Thats with an upto 5yr (60 mo.) warrantee. They pay core ship back. It's the best deal I've found on-line yet. If the shop say's new trans. needed, and more than $3000.00, SIL says get a trans. the fluid, and he'll come up and put it in. Find out around the first what it's gonna be...

Take it to an auto parts store and have them check the codes with their scanner. There should be one if the check engine light is on. It may wind up being something simple.

We did that Bill. I did it here at home, and AutoZone did it too, And though That yellow check engine light is on, No codes come up. Disconnected the battery several times to reset computer. light comes on, no code. Dangdest thing I've seen. Just hoping it's not the computer...

Well the not so fun begins...Just got my truck back from getting a Diagnostic done, that didn't really tell me nothing new. Going to the shop this morning, it shifted just like it was supposed to do. So, I recon, I'll use it as long as it's running ok. Mechanic said, well, it evidently has a short, or bad ground somewhere., but you'll need to buy a new trans and have it put in, and that will cost you $4000.00. AHHH, no it wont...

Gonna be tracing wires down between the transmission and the computer. Why do I think it's not going to begood on my bum knee. Dr did say don't become a couch potato, and exercise my Quads before the surgery. Some how don't think she ment to crawl around under this truck though...

(QUOTE)"Mechanic said, well, it evidently has a short, or bad ground somewhere., but you'll need to buy a new trans and have it put in,"(UNQUOTE)

Sounds like you need a new mechanic!!! How is installing a new tranny going to find a short in wiring? :yikes:dono

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Originally Posted by wannabe fisherman

(QUOTE)"Mechanic said, well, it evidently has a short, or bad ground somewhere., but you'll need to buy a new trans and have it put in,"(UNQUOTE)

Sounds like you need a new mechanic!!! How is installing a new tranny going to find a short in wiring? :yikes:dono

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Yep, when I got my chin off the floor from him making that statement, That was my question exactly...His reply was just as dumb to me...Well we have to know the trans is good to start with. I said, well, give me my keys, here's your $90.00 which I really didn't think they did anything for, and I brought my OLD truck home. Again, it shifted like it was supposed to....Don't know, but bet your bottom dollar, as long as it's mine, it wont darken that garage door again...

With the battery hooked up, do a voltage drop test between the negative post (not the cable) and the motor and another one to the chassis. This will verify that all your grounds are good. Readings should be near 0. YouTube has some very good videos on how to do this if you need help. FYI, a voltage drop test is the cadillac of tests for electrical problems.

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Originally Posted by Barnacle Bill

With the battery hooked up, do a voltage drop test between the negative post (not the cable) and the motor and another one to the chassis. This will verify that all your grounds are good. Readings should be near 0. YouTube has some very good videos on how to do this if you need help. FYI, a voltage drop test is the cadillac of tests for electrical problems.

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Thank you Barnacle Bill, This is the kind of help needed. I don't know a lot about mechanic's, though I try. I'll check out youtube as I'm thinking it's three wires needed to check the grounds, or do you use the two, and check the neg. to motor and then the neg. to chassis?. Thank you for the help.
Should it actually be the trans needed, I sure am not takin' it to them folks. A E4OD trans can be had, REMAN for 2990.00 free shipping and core return shipping off the internet, including a new Torque converter. And I can get my SIL to come help put it in....

I know I may be late to this "party" but I'm gonna post this up anyway, for those that are not in the know

on the older Fords (OBD1) you dont need a code scanner, and as you've found out some of them won't even pick up a code if the CEL is on, as some of the readers are not programmed correctly to read OBD1 codes (usually only obd2). Kind of stupid if you ask me but we also have to understand that Ford didn't make that code reader, and most of the time the people who did are chevy boys...anyway...

There should always be a code, even if the CEL is OFF....code 111 if it's a 3 digit system, or 11 if it is 2 digit. I "believe" that 95's were 3 digit. Code 111 is "all clear".

If the CEL is on, there is a hard code stored.

How to retrieve trouble codes from Ford's EEC-IV with a paper-clip - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

Use the instructions at FTE (linked) and then do a code dump. Be aware than you will get a ECT code if the engine is not up to operating temp. This is considered normal.

There is actually quite a bit that can be done using a paper clip, check hard codes, stored codes, and you can also do a cylinder balance test..though if it's running ok, it's not necessary. Let's just keep it simple. When you turn the key on after putting the paperclip in, it will dump the hard (current) codes first. You will have to look closely to make SURE you have the 3 digit system, as Ford changed from 2 to 3 digit in 94 or 95 (I don't remember which vehicles and exactly when). Just watch the CEL flashes, and write them down on a piece of paper as they flash.

You can unplug the shift solenoid pack and it'll stay in 2nd..that's normal...but illustrates that there could very well be a fault in the wiring between the ECU and the transmission. Rats can and often do eat wires. I bought a brand new 22 mustang in 2022 and parked it at the house in the garage the night I bought it home. Next morning, check engine light on. I raised the hood, and found where rats ate some wires on top of the engine....yes it was cold out. That's when we see the most rodents in engine bays. I hate them! Generally speaking you should have at least a stored code if it won't shift out of 2nd, maybe a code 618 or whatever. But dump the codes with a paperclip and see what you have...most of the time it'll point you in the right direction.

Hey lugbolt, Thank you for the chime in...Never late as long as I have the truck, which at the moment I do. I have to see if the battery will take a charge and get it charged up first. I'll have to see about this paper clip deal. I know it works as I used a clip on an old s10 blazer, years ago. I do greatly appreciate the info and will keep you informed.