25 Attachment(s)
Updating and Upgrading My Skeeter F-80 Strada
I swapped 2 small Yamaha outboards for this boat a while back. It has been stored here under a covered area I used to park my customer's boats under. I Never let one of my customer's boat even get dew on them when here so I have a lot of covered space to park stuff under.
Attachment 477274
It has a good running little Yamaha 70TLR but I got this for a plaything. If I like it I may cut my Tin boat loose and use this. Time will tell. The Transom is very solid, the main reason I wanted this little boat was I knew it has been stored either under a Carport or Awning as long as I have known about it. Now everyone will see why I never throw away drop used but excellent parts.
Attachment 477275
This C90TLR came from RP Breaux's shop on the Bell River above Morgan City La. When I tore it down it didn't have one speck of corrosion throughout the entire engine. I only had to go .010 on the bore so I have 3 more before re-sleeving would be needed. The lower unit got all new bearings and seals, also I went completely through the TnT with all OEM parts. Well 10 hours after the 10 hour break-in the Stator went out. Obsolete. If I could buy new it was over $700 so I bought a new E-Tec 90 for the boat on Ross Barnett and moth-balled this engine. Well since I have purchased a couple of used Stators which just went into my stash. I completely repainted it but it still has a layer of shop dust in this picture. The decals I cut on my plotter so if everything goes well I will remove the decals and paint the Cowl with the Strada colors. I also have a Evinrude 60 degree already bored and ready to build if needed. The Yamaha 90TLR is a very low compression engine, milled heads and carb jets can be purchased to bump this little 3 cylinder over 100Hp @ 239 pounds. HP to weight ratio is insane!
Attachment 477276
I'm using the chainfall I used to install the custom T-Tops I used to fabricate since this 70Hp only weighs 229 pounds.
Attachment 477277
With the engine off I did my usual Transom survey for peace of mind more than anything. I can honestly say I never had to repair a Skeeter transom the entire time I was in business.
Attachment 477278
Skeeter installed a Transom Cap that didn't fit this boat. Maybe they were out of the correct size, this cap was wider than the transom was thick so they just squirted a Bathroom grade sealer everywhere and let it go. I will say here that Skeeter builds a structurally fine boat then and now. A testament to their quality is in the photographs in this post. No, and I mean No Rot anywhere.
Attachment 477279
I took this picture to show the Dobber Nest under the Flywheel of the 70Hp. These Yamaha 2 Stroke TLR engines attract Dobbers. I put a piece of very coarse foam in the back of every one I own to stop them from building Nests under the Cowl.
Attachment 477280
You can see the Caulk job here, maybe 5200 or other Urethane sealers didn't exist in 1985, I don't know I was working on Drilling Rigs then.
Attachment 477281
The Jackplate here has a relief for the Transom Cap but the factory cap interferes so I have to remove it. Below in the picture you can see how close the Cap is to the engine mounting holes.
Attachment 477282
My first thought was to just trim it up a bit but when I popped it off I saw the Funky sealer job underneath.
Attachment 477283
I realized this Cap didn't fit. I could not reinstall it knowing that.
Attachment 477284
Just look at the Goop job that was under the Transom Cap. I couldn't let that go. My nickname by all the locals when I moved here was Mr 100%. Well they were right.
Attachment 477285Attachment 477286Attachment 477287
They just pumped that stuff everywhere, it provided no structural integrity at all. You can see the Cap side of the Transom joint has cracked Gelcoat all over it.
Attachment 477288
West systems Epoxy to the rescue! Every Transom I replaced while in business I pumped the Cap to Hull joint at the transom with thickened Epoxy. This boat is no exception. I dug all the sealer I could out from between the joint. Used a 3in 36 grit disk on a 2in Backer so I had a thin edge to slip inside the joint to grind above as well as below to improve the Epoxy adhesion.
Attachment 477289
Epoxy Syringes, not just for injecting my "Secret Weapon" inside Tube Jigs.
Attachment 477290
i injected Epoxy to refusal then used a Bondo spreader to finish out the joint repair job.
Attachment 477291
Surely this was not a factory Transom Saver, I didn't like it so I make a Jethro Bodine version. this one I like.
Attachment 477292
When you make these radius the edge going inward to the Gelcoat to reduce damage to the finish.
Attachment 477294
I installed the Jackplates sealing very well with a below the waterline silicone.
Attachment 477295
the new Transom Saver was also bedded with the same silicone.
Attachment 477296
here comes the Fresh Yamaha C90TLR.
Attachment 477298Attachment 477299
For those who have not regularly removed and installed outboard engines, hook up the battery any way you can. Rarely does the C-Clamp's static angle match the Transom angles where it is getting installed. If you hook up the battery you can use the TnT switch in the Lower Cowl to match the engine C-Clamp angle to the Transom angle so the bolts align.
Attachment 477300
All I did today was the swap posted here. Back to Moth-Ball status till the Caddy runs.
16 Attachment(s)
Time to Replace the 1986 Helm & Steering Cable
The entire helm system is original. The Steering Cable will not align with the Tilt Tube location now that the Jackplate was added. Also the steering cable is now too short.
Fortunately when I rig & re-rig a boat I keep any parts that are in very good condition. This helm I'm using to replace the original helm was in service for only about 9 months. I box everything up and label the outside well.
Attachment 490843
The original helm is rough, the trash can is too good for it.
Attachment 490844Attachment 490845Attachment 490846
None of this hardware is still manufactured the same. The old steering cable still had a threaded collar, no pins.
Attachment 490850Attachment 490847Attachment 490848
I put this up as a unit, the same way it is sold, complete. The Tilt section separates from the Mounting Hub and the NFB Helm itself.
Attachment 490849
First is mounting the mounting hub. Big hole, 3 1/4in bolts and it's installed.
Attachment 490851Attachment 490852Attachment 490853
2 1/4-20 Screws with external locking washers hold the Tilt mechanism to the Mounting Hub but a Set Screw locks the Steering Shaft of the Tilt Mechanism to the actual Helm Shaft. I torqued both screws before moving on.
Attachment 490854Attachment 490855
To complete the Helm install the trim was all that was left to add.
Attachment 490856Attachment 490857Attachment 490858
The boat is full of small Wasp Nests like this. So when I'm rigging something like this I don't want to add holes if possible and I have found bringing the Steering Cables thru the Vent Holes on the Starboard side as a good cheat. I like Hydraulic Steering and if I decide to use this boat Hydraulic Steering will be installed but for right now I'm passing the Cable thru the Vent hole. Also I tape up the steering cable areas that I do not want dirt to contaminate. Best to keep the dirt out than clean it out. I don't have a new Steering Wheel in my stash of parts so tomorrow will be working on the Controls.
1 Attachment(s)
5:30am Callout for Pulling 36ft Boat
We can only put this boat on a trailer on high tide. This is the boat I rebuilt the hydraulics on in a previous thread. Now the engine on the other side is leaking down and won't lift the engine much. Apparently another hydraulics rebuild is in my immediate future. Working on boats is fun, having everyone's boat available for use, Priceless.........
Attachment 490949
8 Attachment(s)
Finishing Up the Helm Steering
Now that the Hot Foot is done I switch to Steering.
Attachment 491112
I received the steering wheel, it is a adjustable type allowing adjustment for centering. For the moment I just need it to turn the Helm so I can thread the Steering Cable into the NFB Helm. The Wheel is just tacked on with two screws for now.
Attachment 491113
I always regrease steering cables recycled with this Extreme Grease. Good stuff.
Attachment 491114Attachment 491115
After getting the steering cable started into the helm I slowly turn the wheel guiding the steering cable core centered into the helm till I have to put the protective Liner on the upper cable exit point. Then I continue turning the wheel.
Attachment 491116
Once the steering cable housing goes all the way in a cotter pin is installed to lock it in place. A cotter pin is also used to lock the protective liner in place.
Attachment 491117
This cable is 1 foot too long. If I keep the boat it will have a 115 on it so Hydraulic Steering (the good one) will be installed with the final install of the engine. I will re-gelcoat this boat if I keep it too.
Attachment 491118
I mentioned earlier that the steering wheel is adjustable well I have centered the engine well within the allowances of the steering wheel and now am rotating the mounting holes in the steering wheel to straighten the wheel up.
Attachment 491119
Everything is aligned and ready to continue on.
P.S. that is the "Bat Mobile" the Caddy sitting next to the Skeeter. It is fixin' to get it's new Air Shocks & Brakes.
11 Attachment(s)
Removing Old Boat Registration Numbers
We all come across a time when we need to remove the old decals on our boats. This works on most things but be careful on how much you heat automotive paint when removing the decals. Also a quality adhesive remover is required. The photo is the best adhesive remover I have ever found.
Attachment 491151Attachment 491155
To start out you need a heat gun on the low setting & a plastic razorblade scraper.
Attachment 491152Attachment 491153Attachment 491154
Starting out you just warm up one decal at a time. I like to work from left to right because I am left handed. Control of the scraper is key to a quick & easy job. Once you have warmed the decal up a bit test at a corner if it is ready to release. If not warm some more, if it is just push the plastic razorblade under the decal and remove it. The State decals was about 5-6 decals thick. In that case I warm the whole decal a bit then once one corner lifts I use a pair of pliers to hold the corner, pulling at a angle till the whole decal is removed.
Attachment 491156Attachment 491157
Using the adhesive remover spray a lite coat on one decal glue residue spot at a time. Completely clean the spot before moving on. Once I get done I do a last wipe spraying the entire area with adhesive remover then wiping again.
Attachment 491158
To remove the outline left by weathering you have to polish the gelcoat enough to blend the colors together.
Attachment 491159Attachment 491160Attachment 491161
On a boat this oxidized I use a heavy machine compound with my rpm around 250 rpms a minute. To build up a little heat I push the pad down and do not use more speed. I have found color & shine will come back with the right pressure & speed faster than any other method I have tried. If really bad I will water sand by machine with 2000-3000 grid before polishing. Now your hull is ready for new numbers, don't forget to wax over the number after waiting a few days for the PSA to cure.
2 Attachment(s)
Supplies Arrived and My Stash Parts for the Updating
UPS didn't run till almost 5pm today. I received the supplies and laid out the parts from my stash to work on organizing the flow of work. Working from a plan you don't regret doing a different task later. I visualize each action or process of work flow then write down the order I need to install the parts. Keeps my mind from cluttering up while I really have to pay close attention to what I'm currently doing, precision work.
Attachment 491292Attachment 491293
I'm going to go ahead and rewire the entire boat while I'm at it, that Rabbit Hole sees I'm a Sucker and gets me to Entering it............
5 Attachment(s)
New Anodes - Look Close at the Prop Clearances
60-90Hp Yamaha 2 Strokes are still around and if you want to run better props you need a different Anode with a offset. The Yamaha part number is hard to find but I buy Martyr Anodes anyway so I took a picture of the packaging back card to show the part numbers. Here we are in Saltwater & Brackish Water a lot so I went with the premium aluminum anodes this time.
Attachment 491453
You can see how these Prop end Skeg Anodes are made. It allows you to run almost any kind of Prop.
Attachment 491454Attachment 491455
The old anode needed cleaning and could be used but I think it is Magnesium.
Magnesium anodes are for Freshwater use only.
Attachment 491456Attachment 491457
Zinc is for Saltwater, Aluminum is for both Saltwater & Brackish water, and Magnesium is for Freshwater only.
13 Attachment(s)
Further Rigging the Yamaha C90 on the Skeeter
I realized the Yamaha rigging wiring harness was not correct for the C90. Also I needed to work a Water Pressure Gauge tubing & Running Lite wire thru the grommet. The OEM Tach & Gauges were all original, I'm replacing them with newer gauges.
Attachment 491557Attachment 491558
The Tach mounting hole is too small for a modern tach. I will need to open it up.
Attachment 491559
Yamaha manufacturers their rigging wiring harnesses long to fit more applications. Here I fold the excess rigging outside over the gunnel until I'm fully complete on terminating both ends. At that point the balance of the excess can be folded neatly, secured with tie wraps, and tucked out of the way. Normally I secure to the steering cable but this one is a foot too long for long term use, it will be replaced or hydraulics installed soon.
Attachment 491560
The rigging wiring is all tucked out of the way in this little boat, I'm folding like a pretzel to reach some of this stuff.
Attachment 491561
Dirt Dauber nests are everywhere. I can fill a 5 gallon bucket with them. Well the bright side the boat is getting lighter.
Attachment 491562Attachment 491563Attachment 491564
Pulling rigging back and forth I'm keeping 2 fish tapes working. Running lite circuit & water pressure tubing heading to the engine here.
Attachment 491565Attachment 491566Attachment 491567
When working everything into the molded Lower Cowl Grommet you need patience. So many things need to line up with the exact spot Yamaha designed it to be once rigged. The clamp for the grommet is not just tightened down smashing everything in place, these older engine clamps will bend and break. I grab the entire bundle with my right hand twisting the bundle back and forth while pressing down on the clamp with the other hand. As items in the bundle snug together I can turn each bolt in the clamp by hand a little more. I keep doing this till the clamp is almost bottoming out on the lower cowl before tightening the bolts to secure it.
Attachment 491568
The water pressure tubing is routed to where the fitting screws into the water cooling system in the engine.
Attachment 491569
To accomplish a nice neat ambilocal connection like this takes time. I never rush this part, if the contents don't want to lay right for me I walk off to return later finishing the task. Seems walking off if needed always works when things just do want to work like I expect them to.
16 Attachment(s)
Continuing the Upgrades to the F-80 Strada
I noticed the OEM Tach opening is smaller than the current standard. I'm going to have to open it up to fit the Tach I want to use. This will be done later when the AC is not running, I don't want any fiberglass dust sucked into the unit.
Attachment 491655Attachment 491656
So I don't think the pumps are original but they are very old. To make it easy for me to get access I pulled the Aft Hatch Assembly. Removing it really opens the back of the boat up.
Attachment 491657Attachment 491658Attachment 491659
I called Tiny's Fiberglass in Longview Tx., the owner is the most knowledgeable person I know on Skeeter boats. He has been in business I would guess close to 50 years. Anyway after looking at the center hatch hinge mount I was getting the impression it was structural connecting the Splashwell to the rest of the Cap. So I called to get his opinion if he thought I could eliminate the Dual Hatch System and fabricate one big hatch but he brought to my attention this boat does not have Knee Braces between the Transom and Stringers. That idea is out the window for now.
Attachment 491660Attachment 491661Attachment 491662
Now that the Pumps were accessible I pulled them out. Check out the motor out of the Bilge Pump. How long has it been since this pump was used? All junk.
Attachment 491663Attachment 491664Attachment 491665Attachment 491666Attachment 491667
The first picture is the "Sleepers" I hate in a boat wiring harness. This Grounding Splice was tucked in a place you would never find without ripping all the wiring out as I have done. You loose the splice you loose the entire wiring system. I pulled out the wire I planned to use and started making a new wiring harness. Since the battery is right next to the pumps I will use a expanding battery terminal with individual screws to ground the pumps, aft compartment lighting, fuel sending unit (if a permanent fuel tank is ever installed), etc. That way only one circuit is on one screw. I keep Convoluted Tubing in stock 3/8in to 3/4in. I'm using 3/4in here because I plan on pulling the Water Pressure tubing and Aft Running Lite wire back out to route inside this harness.
Attachment 491668
This is the best wiring harness length estimator I own. It's 10ft long so it makes short work of estimating the length of harness needed. BTW the insulated wine glass is full of Mayhaw Fuji Apple wine since this is evening entertainment.
Attachment 491669Attachment 491670
The new wiring harness is ready to install. Got it connected to the Fish Tape by quitting time. More later.
4 Attachment(s)
Back of the Skeeter is Filling Up........
Finished up all the Aft Compartment wiring, well till I put LED compartment lights in. Got on installing the Bilge Pump and connecting the Livewell Pump hose. Tied all the wiring up well too.
Attachment 493006Attachment 493007Attachment 493008
Not as much room left but wait, the fuel tank need to go in too.
Attachment 493009
If I decide to strip my other Blazer and install everything on this boat I will use a permanent fuel tank.
12 Attachment(s)
Pulling in New Trolling Motor Leads
I always install trolling motor supply leads on the opposite side of my boats or boat builds. The newer pulse width modulated digital trolling motors create a high level of interference RF that can induce a counter EMF if close to transducer wiring or electronics power supply wiring. Since this is a 1986 boat it has some access issues up in the bow that I have to address mainly opening the size of the access opening up. I can't get my forearm thru what's there to properly bolt a modern trolling motor on. Thru bolting the trolling motor plug is needed to, the holes are too big for screws.
Attachment 493154Attachment 493157
First was to work from the trolling motor plug opening feeding the metal fish tape to the stern of the boat doen the Port side.
Attachment 493155Attachment 493156
I didn't have enough #8 Red wire to make the run so I'm using a very HD Red Shrink Tubing to color code each end of one of the black wires to designate it permanently as the positive conductor.
Attachment 493159Attachment 493160Attachment 493161
The coils were so tight in the wire I had to wrap the end around this cleat and stretch & pull removing some of the memory in the wire before pulling. Feeding the wires thru the hull slowly all went well you can see the wires sticking out of the mounting location for the trolling motor receptacle.
Attachment 493158
I use tape to mark what not to cut when opening up a hole like this because a certain amount of level, flat surface needs to remain for the new panel cover to mount properly. What is inside the tape line will be removed then I sand these cuts well so I don't get scratched up later.
Attachment 493162Attachment 493163Attachment 493164Attachment 493165
To secure and protect the new wires I put the entire run in Convoluted Tubing. It is a PITA to install after the wires are run but now I can secure the wiring well with eyelet tiewraps. I like to screw the eyelets down up against the inside of the rod box and along the wire routing in the aft compartment.
15 Attachment(s)
Slow but Getting it Done.........
With these jobs, too much time can not be spent figuring unforeseen needs, layout due to small deck size, convenience items, etc.
Attachment 493216
The first task at hand was cutting access for my arms in the bow of the boat. I will cut a piece of 5052 1/8in thick Aluminum sheet to make a new dash panel including a Trim/Tilt Switch & Livewell Switch for now. If I install Livescope later enough power will already exist to power anything installed.
Attachment 493217Attachment 493218Attachment 493219
I was a Power-Pole Dealer for a long time in the beginning. JL Marine changed the Dealer program rewarding labor but no profit on the sale of the units so I dropped them. Since a few of their hardware kits are still laying around I used one to thru bolt install this old trolling motor base. It is a 55# Motor-Guide SW Digital Hand Control that has been laying around for 10 years. It will do for now. Using JL Marine's high density composite mounting washers I was able to get a good even torque on 5 mounting screws. I don't think it will go anywhere.
Attachment 493220Attachment 493221
On to the new Trolling Motor Receptacle. With the enlarged opening in the Bow I was able to reach around to the backside of this unit and thru screw the mounting, it won't move either. I took a picture of the length to strip the wire for these receptacles because I don't know how many repairs I was able to charge for because the receptacle leads were not stripped far enough back. The wire pushes way into the terminals in the back. Strip enough wire to fill the terminal completely.
Attachment 493222Attachment 493223Attachment 493224
On to the safety device. I personally like this Blue Sea Systems unit. The hardware is all stainless, the material used in the Seal is some form of Silicone, good stuff, and when you push the cover down over the studs it stays in place. Again no plain shrink ring terminal is used in the high current installation. I'm using very large surface area eyelet Stak-on un-insulated terminals made for 8 gauge stranded wire. I like to do it right so I don't do it again.
Attachment 493225
I'm in the habit to check for reverse polarity on any receptacle I install now that I'm older so to be sure all is well I plug a digital charger into the receptacle first. If I made a mistake the charger would tell me.
The need to pull new wiring to the bow was next today, after making a conductor umbilical with the wires needed plus a extra not needed I setup to make the pull thru the side of the Cap. I stayed within the molded rings Skeeter added to the underside of the Cap for wiring support. I fished the nylon fish tape to the bow first then fastened the wires in a tapered fashion to make pulling the wires back easier.
Attachment 493226Attachment 493227Attachment 493228
Just a little bit of back & forth and out popped the wires under the console/dash.
Attachment 493229Attachment 493230
After cutting the bow panel wires to length I securely bundled all the bow wiring together with a couple of cable ties. This will keep everything easy to reach later.
5 Attachment(s)
Making the New Bow Panel for the Skeeter
I need to mount the electrical switches & fuse holders for the Tilt/Trim, Livewell, & Bow Electronics power switch in this opening.
Attachment 493324
The forward livewell switch was a push/pull type installed in the hole on the right. That would just catch fishing line if reinstalled, no that hole gets plugged.
Attachment 493325
First things first is the "Pattern". I made a pattern of the maximum area a flat piece of aluminum sheet would lay flat. Once I had that done I transferred the outline to a piece of drop material.
Attachment 493326
After checking the fit I center punched 4 mounting holes and cleaned the panel up.
Attachment 493327
Wishing I had made this panel sooner so I could have painted it yesterday I got to thinking what it I just polished the aluminum out so I hit it briefly with the buffer. I think I will like it polished just fine. It needs more work but after I drill all the rest of the holes.
Attachment 493328
4 Attachment(s)
Drilling & Mounting the Switches in the Bow Panel
Attachment 493658Attachment 493659
Using a Drill Press, wood, & clamps to align the drill bit with the desired location of the hole in the Bow Panel. In the second picture if you look at the aluminum cutting curl specifically, when drilling aluminum you apply pressure to the drill bit tip till you see a clean curl like that.
Attachment 493660
I de-burred the holes once drilled on both sides so the switch & retaining ring / boot sit flush on the aluminum.
Attachment 493661
So the reason I am installing the switches in the lower left hand corner of the panel is because I use a launching rope secured to the bow cleats. When the switches are higher on the deck the ropes when launching the bow catches on the rubber boots breaking the Batons out of the switches. This is the least likely place for a switch baton to get snagged.
1 Attachment(s)
Got the Hot Foot Installed
Attachment 493662
The leg room on this boat is so spacious I had to move the Hot Foot out towards the Cockpit seat before securing to the Deck. I also adjusted it so at full throttle the butterflies in the Carbs are at 90 degrees to the Carb Bore.
