I’ve just started I used 1/16 oz jig heads crappie magnet and Danny garland plastic tipped with minnows. Question is any ideal why I have more fish get off right at the top of the water or just before I get the net under them than I catch?
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I’ve just started I used 1/16 oz jig heads crappie magnet and Danny garland plastic tipped with minnows. Question is any ideal why I have more fish get off right at the top of the water or just before I get the net under them than I catch?
Open the gap on your hooks just a little bit.
Possibly poor hook sets? I like to cross their eyeballs when spider rigging. Could be a number of thing's, also you may be to slow on noticing the bite.
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Put plastic inline beads between your first and second eye on the outer ends of your rods. You can hear the tick before you see a light bite.
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Guess I don’t really set the hook just pick the rod up?
Possibly soft action rods &/or not setting the hook "fast enough" or with "authority".Quote:
Originally Posted by no luck
Possibly you're hooking the fish in the lip membrane, rather than the roof of the mouth, and they (or you) are causing slack in the line just long enough for the hook to slip out the hole.
You have to set the hook when rigging. If done properly it should put the hook in the roof of the mouth. They do have soft mouths but shouldn't matter when doing it right. I've flipped many shorts over the boat in my day, but without setting the hook I would have missed many fish.Quote:
Originally Posted by no luck
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My rods are pretty wimpy. I wanted to try before I spent a bunch of money
:popcorn
If you would elaborate more it would be a great benefit. Rods, reels, boat, tm and trolling speeds etc. I don't neccesarily believe in wimpy rods and you definitely don't need a loan to successfully spider rig or troll in general.Quote:
Originally Posted by no luck
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Ok, I was using a different technique, but still using jigs in open water - I was a firm believer in using needle nose to open the gap a tiny bit, AND put a sideways twist. I believe the proper terminology is a kirb, or reverse, depending on which direction. Don’t think direction really matters. But I got good hookups, usually way back in the roof of their mouth. Some cheap usually gold hooks would snap when I tried that. I used jig heads that were made locally with good bronze hooks. I would touch up the point with a diamond hone as well. I would pick up a bite and lift fast till had a good arc in the rod.
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My rods are all different brands that I have collected over years. They are 12 ft long I use 1/2 or 3/8 weight spinning reels on all of them. I have a ranger 178c 48 edge trolling motor. Speed I make sure I stay under .50 most of the time .30 to .45. Jig heads are crappie magnet brand.
Your good with 12 foot rods and your setup in general. I would focus on hook sets first and foremost. Also, play with your speed a bit. I consider true spider rigging at speeds between 0.1 and 0.5 mph. Sometimes a little more speed makes them commit. If getting to fast and need more weight you will be into power trolling. Focus on the basics at first.. spider rigging is my favorite way to fish for sure. You still have to catch them!
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Thanks everone
Long rods need an aggressive hook set to account for the bend in the rod and stretch of the line (not braid) ... experience with your rod will dictate how hard you can set the hook without breaking the rod ...
——-
Now, I will venture into another discussion with more than one opinion ...
Some feel all fish need to be netted ... to me this lax time of the fish at the surface while trying to get the fish in a net, just gives the fish more opportunity to get off ...
I know by feel of the hook set (and the resistance needed to get that fish headed toward the surface) if my rod will handle the weight of the fish just hooked ...
I’m setting the hook hard … and as soon as I have that fish headed toward the surface - he’s coming all the way into the boat ...
Rickie
Gap the hook definitely helps. Something you mentioned about the net in post.
I’ve lost more crappie messing with nets than anything else.
I switched to a 12’ Jenko net and rarely lose one now.
I don’t think brand specific matters other than weight but if you’re using a long rod and not boat flipping, a long net helps.
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One of the main reason crappie are lost on top of the water is the fact that the hook usually tears a larger hole in the soft membrane of the mouth. When they are allowed to flop on top of the water, while trying to get the net, over half of these will come off.
A good hookset and swing straight into the boat will work much better for you with far fewer fish lost. If you do feel the need for the net keep the fish swimming just below the surface until you’re ready to net him.
One other tip is to ever so slightly open the hook so the point has just a little better chance to stick the fish.
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Cheap rods work just fine spider rigging. I can attest to it. I use 10’ ers and catch just as many if not more fish than my buddies do with their 14’ top of line setups with livescope btw. Sharp hooks and give a quick hookset youll find the sweetspot.
I use 8lb braided line with a 6lb floro leader. The fish normaly hook themselves because theres no stretch. I use 300yds of KastKing highvis yellow from amazon for $10. My uncle showed me how braid vs mono works back in the 90's by holding a hook in his hand and betting me $5 that i couldnt pull the hook from his had with 20yds of line out using a normal hookset. I lost the bet but stopped loosing fish. As others have said opening hook a little really does make a big difference on lite bites