Hmmmm.... What lures should I use under a float in late March, early April

I'm thinking that cold water requires a slow presentation because fish aren't yet prespawn. What better way than lures under a float. (I refuse to use live bait no matter how good it catches fish.) So, as usual while smoking my pipe while making some lures by the bube tube, I happened on a few lures I that have been collecting dust for years as well has modifying some of them.

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#1 shape is the usual minnow with its thin subtle tail flutter with the least movement of the float and 1/32 ir 1/64 oz jigs with #8 hook.

#2 shape is for wacky rigging under the float, with slight rod twitches giving the lure a bilateral tail quiver as the body opens and folds

#3 is my usual super finesse shape - the spike tail grub - with its tail quiver.

#4 shows a thin curl tail attached to a minnow shape which should flutter with a slow retrieve and pauses.

The only floats I use are a foam float with pegs or spring loaded.
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There are other lures that I've caught fish using a float like this Crappie Magnet which might work better in its original size:
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...and this prong tail:
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Can't wait until the weather is more comfortable to be on the water.

They all look killer, spoon. Please let us know high combos struck their fancy…
Bob

Looks awesome

A buddy just emailed me pics of fish he's been catching under a float. He says they been going after surface flies. In March!!!??
Amazing!

Early spring for sure

Cool lures spoon. The one that has my interest but I haven’t tried yet has a flat ribbon type tail and rigged horizontal has exceptional action. Something else I need to try in all the time I don’t have.

Thin flat tails rule!! Tail flutter works like magic and tickles the fish's senses, whereas lures like the Beetle Spin & curl tail grub and crankbaits with wide body wobbles, thump their senses. Either can provoke fish to strike but sometimes finesse gets it done better.

I forgot to mention that #2 lures will be tried wacky rigged and rigged from either end. I've never used that small size and shape wacky rigged, unlike spike tails (whiskers):

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Originally Posted by Spoonminnow

A buddy just emailed me pics of fish he's been catching under a float. He says they been going after surface flies. In March!!!??
Amazing!

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Seen some top water popping the other day myself, interesting

A bud just sent me this email:

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Quick trip on way home. One keeper crappie, a small bass and a bluegill. All topwater! Rapala 2”- 2 ½” inch one (black/silver).
Had fish smacking, jumping over it, hitting it and not getting hook.

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Freak'n early for surface action in my area and in March no less!

dying baitfish on the surface program is likely the culprit , they will feed on them for sure , see it early in the morning here lately myself

Could be, Ketch.

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Originally Posted by Ketchn

Seen some top water popping the other day myself, interesting

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I’ve caught bluegills on top during winter on warm days using a small Rapala out of ponds .

I’ve always been a big fly rod bluegill catching type of fella. With all these shoulder surgeries all lined up for the past year , I’ve been tinkering with an ultra light to catch some bream. I’m afraid my ultralight rod isn’t as sensitive as it needs to be because I catch some bream without feeling the strike while using small jigs. I thinking about shellcracker as they tend to be deeper than bluegills. Just may be my rod/line setup. I’ve got some testing to do.

Suggestion:
A light action rod is plenty sensitive enough for crankbaits abd spinners when retrieved steadily but not for small soft plastics on light jigs under 1/16 oz. unless the following is observed.

The key for detecting strikes for light lures is the forefinger which must be touching the line during the retrieve. A 1/32 oz jig + plastic weight is enough weight for not only casting and working that lure at long distance, but feeling when lure weight-resistance is slack.

The other requirement for that to occur is the use of very small-diameter, no-stretch line such as 6 lb test braid. Braid sinks when wet and has the least bowing when using light lures. Bowing creates too much slack which makes it double hard for the finger to detect the lightest of strikes on paused retrieves.

Braid allows the lightest of hook sets using small hooks (#6, #8) without the fish yanking the lure free. Over-the-shoulder hook sets are fine for 3/8 oz bass jigs & trailers, but not for light set-ups. Even the smallest fish set the hook for you with slight rod tip elevation keeping it hooked.

Works for me.

A Berkley Nymph on 1/32 jighead on a loop knot is pretty deadly

I forgot to mention and most important when using light finesse lures: as you turn the reel handle, any resistance is transmitted up the line to it, even from the slightest hit. It will seem like resistance to turning the handle, which is when the rod tip is raised slightly for confirmation of the strike and a possible hookset from a panicked fish.

I discovered the ABC's of strike detection yesterday when catching a few small panfish, having taken the sequence for granted subconsciously.

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Originally Posted by Happyfisherman

A Berkley Nymph on 1/32 jighead on a loop knot is pretty deadly

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I have a mold for the Berkley Nymph and it has become one my favorite bluegill baits. I have found that crappie are crazy about them also.

Grain and happy, would one of you please post a pic of the Berkeley nymph. I haven’t a clue.

RJR, one of the combos I keep in the boat is currently spooled with 4lb mono for the abrasive places I sometimes go. But I have run braid on it and I’ve noticed the difference in the sensitivity and how the hits feel. Raid transfers everything to the hand in even this cheap combo I’m talking about. It’s a Shakespeare micro series in 5’6” and a Shimano Sienna reel and it’s nothing special at about $50 for the rig. With braid on it I can feel the tiny strikes very well. My point, it’s nice to have better gear but we have what we have for the moment. The better line makes things a lot easier. I have to run a leader for retying and abrasion resistance but for me there’s no turning back. Hope the shoulder heals well and this UL experiment turns out well also.

Shakespeare micro series in 5’6” - have the same rod and use spinning and spincast reels with it - both with braid.
Casting distance using 1/32 oz jig + plastic weight, a good 50'. Sensitivity even at the distance is good using forefinger touching line and reel handle to feel any slight bumps or changes in lure speed.

I have over four dozen fishing rigs setup. I have only one UL setup. A five foot set up I use for trout. Most of my bream and trout fishing are with my fly rods. I use a 2wt a lot.
So I’m buying a true UL setup to use for my shellcracker fishing on the mussel beds on the two large lakes that I live close to. (Oconee and Sinclair)

RJR, I’m looking forward to your posts as you learn the good UL setup. Be aware that small braid has a personality that isn’t cooperative at first. As it’s used it softens and become more supple, and that’s when you’ll fall in love with it. I too have a lot of setups, including fly rods, and hardly touch most of them except the very small ones. My brother lives in Loganville with his son and occasionally fish Sinclair. Hope you find those crackers, love to hear the drag noise when they take off.

I’ll keep y’all abreast of my travels with this UL setup and fishing adventures. Have used 6# braid a lot but not any braid smaller than that. We shall see :fish

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Originally Posted by skeetbum

Grain and happy, would one of you please post a pic of the Berkeley nymph. I haven’t a clue.

RJR, one of the combos I keep in the boat is currently spooled with 4lb mono for the abrasive places I sometimes go. But I have run braid on it and I’ve noticed the difference in the sensitivity and how the hits feel. Raid transfers everything to the hand in even this cheap combo I’m talking about. It’s a Shakespeare micro series in 5’6” and a Shimano Sienna reel and it’s nothing special at about $50 for the rig. With braid on it I can feel the tiny strikes very well. My point, it’s nice to have better gear but we have what we have for the moment. The better line makes things a lot easier. I have to run a leader for retying and abrasion resistance but for me there’s no turning back. Hope the shoulder heals well and this UL experiment turns out well also.

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PowerBait(R) Power(R) Nymph - Berkley(R) Fishing

A light action rod over 6' is overkill IMO. 5'6" - 6' is more than enough to cast even a 1/64oz jig plus plastic a decent distance with the wind.

Side note: different body and tail designs can really make a difference as to whatever else annoys the fish to strike. For a few days I didn't gotten the fewer strikes using a round taper-tail like the Crappie Magnet has - which is one my subtle tail-quiver favorites.
So I switched to #1 lure labeled in the original post. Man did I get bit!! I can only guess that the zero body quiver and side-to-side darting, along with the bright flashes of metal flakes, really p.o.'d fish. Even some larger sunfish in deeper water that hit hard!

There is a time for subtle, but at other times an in-their-face approach gets bit whether sonically, visually or both. I calll it a tickle vs thump-the-senses approach to lure choice.

Those power nymphs look great, and stink too. Gotta work good.

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Originally Posted by skeetbum

Those power nymphs look great, and stink too. Gotta work good.

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They work great but they are expensive which is the reason I got the mold. Crappie love them also.