Is 1/2" osb sufficient or need 5/8 for raised decks?
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Is 1/2" osb sufficient or need 5/8 for raised decks?
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With the right support structure underneath it should be fine.
1/2 is fine if supported properly but you do not want OSB. Plywood holds up much better to getting wet. No boat manufacturer has ever used OSB for decking.
Advantech is supposed to be waterproof
If you live in Pontiac, try Menards lumber. They don’t stock marine grade stuff but you can order it with tongue and groove joints. Mine is 16 years old and still solid. Best of luck.Quote:
Originally Posted by DockShootinJack
Good to know
I agree.Quote:
Originally Posted by Atimm693
My confusion comes from the lumber yard telling me that osb is stronger and has better exterior glue than plywood.
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Ok guys I was mistaken. At the lumber yard we were comparing exterior plywood to marine plywood. Sorry
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Marine plywood for sure. Exterior plywood isn't what it used to be
Marine plywood has more plies and no voids. Same material, same glue. High quality exterior ply sheathing is fine, get a decent grade like BCX and seal it.Quote:
Originally Posted by silverside
is anything?? :donoQuote:
Originally Posted by DockShootinJack
Very trueQuote:
Originally Posted by wannabe fisherman
I know I'm not what I used beQuote:
Originally Posted by wannabe fisherman
You aren't the only one
According to the scale, I’m more than what I used to be.:biggrinQuote:
Originally Posted by DockShootinJack
When I went to buy marine ply the price as ridiculous. As already stated, marine has little to no voids and exterior glue. What makes it the best is how it is sealed while you install it. What I bought for my Carolina Skiff decks was B/C exterior. The wood quality is one step down and I found no voids when I cut it to fit. And it was less than half the money. Now for install, cut, sand and drill all holes and test fit it. Then remove it and get some polyester resin, or epoxy resin if you feel like Rockefeller, and mix it to cure very slow and thin it 50/50 with acetone. This thinning lets the resin absorb deeper before hardening. Coat the edges, then do one side. Then do the edges again and flip it over. Do the other side and then do the edges again. All holes are also done multiple times. Then let it cure overnight or until it isn’t sticky anymore. Some time in the sun helps too. After it’s cured, redrill the holes and sand any drips and rough edges and she’s ready to go. That wood will outlast anything else but metal. This isn’t my opinion but the way we treated all wood in the correct craft ski nautiques I built for a while. We never had any wood repairs come into the shop. Hope this helps.
I have heard you mention this method before. Those boats were built to last
:hesaid That was what I was going to suggest is coating the whole piece, All edges to seal it up. If their is a pin hole opening you can expect to be redoing in a year or so. Good luck with it.
1/2", 5/8" or 3/4". The thinner the plywood, the closer the support structure must be to support the deck and weight of occupants. To thin and structure too far apart and the deck will feel soft, it will give under your weight.
Another thing to consider it hatch thickness, especially when it comes to hinges. 1/2" ply won't hold screws very well. Plus you may have a hard time finding hinges that will work. If you get piano hinges, you may have to cut them to width to fit. Support structure is one thing, hatches are a different animal.