Stator/ rectifier output

I am trying to chase some demons possibly in my motor. I have a 2001 Johnson 115. Model is j115plsie. Reading through the technical manuals it says the charging system should be outputting 14.1 volts. I am not able to get anywhere past 12.7 to 12.8. I have recently replaced the battery and have a CDI stator and rectifier. I have been doing some at home testing and I'm getting around 36 volts AC at the stator output. On the rectifier when the red wire is disconnected from the solenoid I was getting around 50 volts DC when it is connected to the solenoid it drops down to 12.7 to12.8. I'm not able to get the charging system to stabilize at 14.1 like the manual says. The tachometer works as it should so just wanting to ask the group if it's possible that either the stator is not outputting enough voltage or is the rectifier not converting enough voltage I'm just kind of at a loss right now. When fishing on the lake the battery voltage drops to around 12.3 after running the electronics for a while but when I start up and take it to wide open throttle 12.8 is about the max that I'm able to get. I did attempt an amperage test on the rectifier but since my multimeter is a 10 Amp Max I ended up blowing the fuse so I know it's putting out at least that much. It just has me wondering if there could be a problem with the rectifier since everything checks out as far as testing the diodes but it's not putting out the voltage required when it's connected to the battery

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We just changed out a buddies a couple days ago. His was charging 14.5 all the time.
Problem was most likely rectifier but we went ahead and replaced the stator and rectifier.
His motor is an old Evinrude 88 Special.
Now charging 13.5.


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I read that CDI recommends not using agm or maintenance free batteries or it voids the warranty. And my regulator/rectifier is only to maintain battery voltage and replenish lost voltage by starting, not designed to charge the battery so i may have to get a separate cranking only battery. I have a deep cycle battery currently that I am using to start the outboard but also have all my electronics on it also. The more I read the more conflicting information I get, some say its okay to use the battery I have and then others say it's a no go. I was trying to keep my weight down and not have to get another battery since I already have 2 group 27 for the trolling motor and the current 27 I am using now.

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Originally Posted by huntersdad

I read that CDI recommends not using agm or maintenance free batteries or it voids the warranty. And my regulator/rectifier is only to maintain battery voltage and replenish lost voltage by starting, not designed to charge the battery so i may have to get a separate cranking only battery. I have a deep cycle battery currently that I am using to start the outboard but also have all my electronics on it also. The more I read the more conflicting information I get, some say its okay to use the battery I have and then others say it's a no go. I was trying to keep my weight down and not have to get another battery since I already have 2 group 27 for the trolling motor and the current 27 I am using now.

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The reason behind that is because the charging system is unregulated, if ran for extended periods it can cause some electrolyte loss in the battery. Typically with those systems you will not see much at idle, but after running at speed for a good while you should see some voltage increase, often higher than 14v. If you're making a lot of short runs it may take a while to come up.

You need a DVA that plugs into your multi meter, to accurately read voltage.

Agree that voltage will be lower at slow speeds.

Have you checked your battery? Charge it unhook every thing check voltage let it sit for a day or two and recheck voltage. Many times a battery tester will show a bad battery as good.

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Originally Posted by Bricks

Have you checked your battery? Charge it unhook every thing check voltage let it sit for a day or two and recheck voltage. Many times a battery tester will show a bad battery as good.

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Definitely worth looking at. I don't trust digital testers either. Best to put it on an old school load tester with the toaster windings.

The battery is brand new, well to me anyway but has a production date of may 22. I charged it overnight and unplugged it and went straight to the lake. The rectifier is regulated I assume, it's water cooled. I'm going to purchase a starting only battery and separate my electronics from it since that could be part of the issue. I'm running 3 helix units, mega live w/target lock the heading sensor and the occasional radio. I was just thinking that on my volt meter, I could see how much voltage was being put in the battery by the charging system instead of just the battery voltage itself. Is there a way to check that? I'd like to know how many volts are going in the battery from the rectifier throughout the different rpm ranges if it's possible.

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Red Flag…Now what??
As I wrote a couple post back
Put new battery, stator and rectifier on buddies 1994 Johnson/Evinrude and NOW it is charging 17.2 volts. Pegging out volt meter on dash.
I would have thought it was the meter but the Garmin on the console is also reading 17.2 volts.
He has that unit wired to start battery. Don’t know why!!
I think he has a bad rectifier but who knows since it was new also.
Any thought will be appreciated.
Not trying to hijack the thread.
Chuck.


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Footnote…
The voltage does go down when he trims motor.
But as soon as he stops it goes right back up.
Assuming the load from trim motor is causing the decrease.
I have about exhausted all my resources to supply him with an educated diagnosis.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by huntersdad

The battery is brand new, well to me anyway but has a production date of may 22. I charged it overnight and unplugged it and went straight to the lake. The rectifier is regulated I assume, it's water cooled. I'm going to purchase a starting only battery and separate my electronics from it since that could be part of the issue. I'm running 3 helix units, mega live w/target lock the heading sensor and the occasional radio. I was just thinking that on my volt meter, I could see how much voltage was being put in the battery by the charging system instead of just the battery voltage itself. Is there a way to check that? I'd like to know how many volts are going in the battery from the rectifier throughout the different rpm ranges if it's possible.

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You would need a DC current clamp meter to monitor that. If you borrow or buy one, make sure it measures DC current, it's not a common feature, but AC current is.

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Originally Posted by Chuck Adams

Red Flag…Now what??
As I wrote a couple post back
Put new battery, stator and rectifier on buddies 1994 Johnson/Evinrude and NOW it is charging 17.2 volts. Pegging out volt meter on dash.
I would have thought it was the meter but the Garmin on the console is also reading 17.2 volts.
He has that unit wired to start battery. Don’t know why!!
I think he has a bad rectifier but who knows since it was new also.
Any thought will be appreciated.
Not trying to hijack the thread.
Chuck.


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That's what I was referring to earlier as an unregulated charging system. They do not shut off charging current.

CDI makes some retrofit regulators, look through their catalog and see if they have one that fits his model.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by huntersdad

The battery is brand new, well to me anyway but has a production date of may 22. I charged it overnight and unplugged it and went straight to the lake. The rectifier is regulated I assume, it's water cooled. I'm going to purchase a starting only battery and separate my electronics from it since that could be part of the issue. I'm running 3 helix units, mega live w/target lock the heading sensor and the occasional radio. I was just thinking that on my volt meter, I could see how much voltage was being put in the battery by the charging system instead of just the battery voltage itself. Is there a way to check that? I'd like to know how many volts are going in the battery from the rectifier throughout the different rpm ranges if it's possible.

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Connect your VOM directly (set to DC volts) to the battery and monitor it at different RPMs.

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Originally Posted by Barnacle Bill

Connect your VOM directly (set to DC volts) to the battery and monitor it at different RPMs.

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This is how I was testing over the weekend. At both idle and WOT the max I could get at the battery was 12.8v, as soon as I come off plane it drops down to around 12.3 Only thing I can think of is that due to the size battery and being a deep cycle that it is just going to take alot of running to put anything back in the battery. I'm going to get a group 24 starting battery and see if it makes a difference. Otherwise I'll be contacting CDI because both the stator and rectifier are still under warranty.I just don't know if the stator or Rectifier could be possibly losing voltage due to temperature rise at higher RPM. I'm getting good voltage out of the stator while testing at the house but can't really test it under a load

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by huntersdad

This is how I was testing over the weekend. At both idle and WOT the max I could get at the battery was 12.8v, as soon as I come off plane it drops down to around 12.3 Only thing I can think of is that due to the size battery and being a deep cycle that it is just going to take alot of running to put anything back in the battery. I'm going to get a group 24 starting battery and see if it makes a difference. Otherwise I'll be contacting CDI because both the stator and rectifier are still under warranty.I just don't know if the stator or Rectifier could be possibly losing voltage due to temperature rise at higher RPM. I'm getting good voltage out of the stator while testing at the house but can't really test it under a load

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CDI makes some good equipment but I would be suspecting the rectifier/regulator. I use to work on them but my memory is shot. You might try the forum at iBoats and ask them. Some real sharp people on that site.

Purchased a group 24, 1000 mca battery tonight. Gonna put it on charge and try this weekend. Hopefully this resolves the issue but if not I will be looking into the regulator/rectifier

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Think I'm all set. Took out the boat today and put all electronics on the deep cycle and just the boat equipment ( aerator, radio, and bilge) on the cranking battery and all seems to be working fine. Boat maintained 14v at just above idle speed. Now just have to figure how to keep the deep cycle charged while on the water.

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If issues persist, I highly recommend you to call CDI directly. Great people to deal with, and they will be happy to work with you.
They really know their stuff, and proudly stand behind it. Far superior to the original stock stuff.
I replaced my stator and rectifier (They should always be replaced together, IMHO) about 3 or 4 years ago, and I could not be happier.

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Originally Posted by huntersdad

Think I'm all set. Took out the boat today and put all electronics on the deep cycle and just the boat equipment ( aerator, radio, and bilge) on the cranking battery and all seems to be working fine. Boat maintained 14v at just above idle speed. Now just have to figure how to keep the deep cycle charged while on the water.

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Here's the answer - This one is called an Echo Charge, other versions call it a Battery combiner, whatever, same process. Automatically, when Battery #1 (Starter) reaches full charge, it starts charging Battery #2 (Trolling, etc.). Will not drain Battery #1 in any way. Common on yachts, houseboats, motor homes, etc. Several videos on YouTube go in detail.
Amazon.com

Thanks, I will have to check in to this.

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I had a similar problem on Evinrude 115 Ficht. Turned out to be corroded battery cables. I use the boat in salt water sometimes, and it is 24 years old. Hope this helps. I did also get a new battery, but that didn’t fix it until I got the cables.