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2 Lowrance HDS units, a 9 touch and a 8 manual. Going to add livescope a Garmin 1222 screen. Ulterra 24 volt trolling motor. Got one starting battery which I assume has the 2 HDS units drawing from it. Gonna need a 4th battery to service the livescope?
You might want to look at a lithium.
My ulterra 24V drains batteries pretty quick. I just bought a livescope and ordered an Ampped outdoors 19AH lithium battery to run just the livescope. With my fishing usually no more than 5 hours at a time it should serve me well.
Look on Ampped outdoors website and check there information based on your system.
I have that battery & use it to power my 93 sv & gls10 & have no problem fishing a 10 hour day so you won't have any problem fishing 5 to 6 hours at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by Grumpa
I would definitely run separate battery on your LS!
i don’t see the outrageous price for the lithium .( But each to their own) . I can run 2 10” garmins one with Ls 8 hours on group 29 interstate before low battery warning comes on . I’m pretty much whooped after 8 hrs anyway if not before ! :twocents
I have a neighbor that runs his 1222 and his GLS10 Livescope module on a Amped 30 AH battery.
He’s been running it for about 3 years and he’s happy with his.
Great, thanks for confirming my choiceQuote:
Originally Posted by Les Young
If you have a 24v TM, 2 of your batteries should be dedicated to the TM only, everything else should be running of the starting battery (Graphs, Gas engine, Livewell etc). Im running a 100amp hour battery for my Garmin 106sv, 2 10" Hummingbirds, Livewell etc.. without any issues. The popular thing is to run a 4th battery for Livescope and most are going with Lithium set ups, but I'm not sold on the value of Lithium set ups yet, when you add up the cost of a Lithium charger, 100amp/hr Lithium battery and the hassle of plugging in another charger and finding a place top mount the battery, it just doesn't make sense. I was quoted over $1100 to change over and from what I read Lithium's have a 11yr life expectancy where as a Lead 100amp costs me $140 and should last 3 to 5 yrs, plus what no one mentions is that you cant safely jump a lithium if it goes down. Maybe Im old school but for now im sticking with a 3 lead battery set up.
Just so you know it's very easy to run a lithium battery in the rod locker. You can easily run all electronics off of one & never have to worry about running the starting battery down. A battery to power the 106sv, gls-10 & both hmminbirds would be way less than$1100 bucks. I still run a everstart group 29 for a starting battery & 2 for the trolling motor with absolutely no interference in my electronics whatsoever. My little livescope battery was just under 200 bucks from amped outdoors. :ThumbsUpQuote:
Originally Posted by Tom 513
I have an amped 19 and run a livescope and 93 sv for ice fishing and it will last 10-12 fishing day no problem. In the summer I use it to power the black box only in my boat. Works great
I use 3 group 31 batteries. 2 batteries for my 24v trolling motor. My starting battery powers the boat; 75hp motor, livewell, 2 HB 9" Helix Gen4 units, Mega 360, Mega Live, bigle pump, boat lights, stereo, Heading Sensor, and charges my bait bucket, Android phone while on the water. Never had an issue with everything running off the group 31 starting battery. It is a Deep Cycle Duracell. The key is wiring. Too small of wire offers too much resistance and that kills batteries. I ran new power wires from the battery to my fuse panel. I think its a 60amp fuse panel. Then tied all my power needs back to the fuse panel. I have one switchable 4 circuit fuse panel that feeds the heading sensor, M360, MLive, and ethernet port. The switchable fuse panel was the original fuse panel in teh boat. I tied it to the master switch on the dash. Then used a 12 circuit fuse panel to power everything else, except TM. I have empty circuits for future sonar units and a stereo amp. Yes, I listen to music while fishing. Not loud obviously, well most times.
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