Checking for source of electrolysis - good info read whole thread

I’ve recently noticed some slight corrosion on my Ultrex motor foot. Looking closer in other areas, I’m seeing similar corrosion. I checked with my local electronics dealer as well as the tech guy at my boat company. Both say there is some kind of voltage/current running thru my hull.

Rickie and I rigged this boat from bare hull and can safely say there are no grounds hooked to the hull. I’ve recently switched to Lithium batteries and lithium individual chargers.

Can somebody point me toward info as to where I need to start my search for an electrical issue? How would I even try to identify stray voltage/current? Everything on this boat is two years or less old.


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Start from the latest additions and work back. Sounds like something is seeking ground, perhaps the chargers pulling current back when unplugged?
Can your battery app show any unusual current spikes when you plug/unplug chargers?

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Doing some reading Capt Doug..

one thing I found.

Electrolysis on Boats: What You Need to Know

Something else…

Electrolysis, Stray Current, Galvanic Corrosion on boats explained

Saw a video on YouTube on a tuneup of a 250 Yamaha. They replaced both anodes on the outside of the motor, as well as one that was hidden inside the lower unit.

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A good ohm meter would could definitely help

The cranking battery negative post is connected to the hull via the motor.

Very true

An inspection didn’t cause any issue to jump out at me. In the process of now pulling each battery out and checking all wiring to that battery. As you can imagine, this boat has a half dozen pumps BURIED in the deep bowels of the hull. I’m going to take all 3 batteries out and then the battery box floor and check for the obvious.

I’ve read all I can find, including what was sent to me(thanks Buckeye) and watched every YouTube video I can find. Most deal with salt water hulls. Mine has never seen salt water.

I have and know how to use a high end VOM but can’t find instructions as to use it to check for a source of stray voltage.

I have calls in to an electronics and aluminum boat dealer, an Excel dealer, and my lithium battery company.

More later.


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During my checks , I decided to check out my corroded (slightly) anodes. The boat has a pair of R3 zinc anodes on the transom. Zinc is designed for salt water use only. Aluminum is for brackish water and magnesium is for fresh water. I am afraid since my zinc anodes had a film of oxidation over them, they weren’t providing the protection they did when the boat was new.
I’m going to keep checking for issues.

Blake from Skinny Water Marine got with me and told me how to check for voltage leak. I’m going to check that. I’m afraid a slight issue over two years time could have caused this and without pulling every piece of electrical equipment out along with inspecting every inch of wire, it may be a phantom I have to deal with.


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Originally Posted by M R Dux

During my checks , I decided to check out my corroded (slightly) anodes. The boat has a pair of R3 zinc anodes on the transom. Zinc is designed for salt water use only. Aluminum is for brackish water and magnesium is for fresh water. I am afraid since my zinc anodes had a film of oxidation over them, they weren’t providing the protection they did when the boat was new.
I’m going to keep checking for issues.

Blake from Skinny Water Marine got with me and told me how to check for voltage leak. I’m going to check that. I’m afraid a slight issue over two years time could have caused this and without pulling every piece of electrical equipment out along with inspecting every inch of wire, it may be a phantom I have to deal with.


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Can you share the process Blake shared with you? One of these days, it may be one of us that needs to check ours... :dono

He said touch meter ground to the battery - post then positive to the boat. This will show if there is a circuit trying to make up. It could be a frayed wire touching aluminum somewhere or bad ground.

I use an analog tester with a needle. If it moves + or - it just shows stray electricity in the hull.

After I get my electronics battery and crank battery back in and hooked up, I’ll check each battery and should be able to at least isolate which circuit is involved.


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OK!! I have solved my problem. I am the cause of the problem.

I talked to Rickie this AM and he convinced me to test my new 36volt 100amp Skinny Water Marine battery circuit before I totally tore my boat apart. I did as Blake from Skinny Water had told me, I turned my trolling motor circuit Perko on with the trolling motor powered up. I put the negative lead from my VOM (volt/ohm meter) onto the negative post and the positive lead to a well grounded spot on my hull. With the VOM on 50 volts DC setting, the needle instantly went to 36 volts. OH CRAP!!!!

My boat was custom wired with 6 gauge marine wire. I had installed a 220Volt heavy duty twist lock receptacle and plug for my TM. A friend had talked me into this about 5 boats ago and I had NEVER had an issue until now. The plug had internally shorted out to ground and into the hull. As soon as I removed the plug from the hull, the voltage went to zero. I am now installing a Marinco 70 amp 36 volt plug and receptacle.

I feel sure this has been a short time thing. The Ultrex has lately done some unexplained things, like shutting off when I knew I have plenty of battery left. A new plug and receptacle along with an upgrade program on my Ultrex I Link and remote should solve my issues.

Thanks everybody for your help and encouragement. This had me scared big time. Hope my stupid mistake helps somebody else avoid it.

BTW, I used the term electrolysis in my title. This was NOT electrolysis as I now know after reading PAGES from any source I could find to solve this. This was stray voltage corrosion. Big difference.

That’s great news Doug. Glad you figured it out AND shared with us. Fishermen helping other Fishermen. C.com is awesome!

Awesome job figuring it out, and sharing your experience. Thanks Dougy, glad you got it figured out. One thing though, I'm surprised Ricky didn't move into your house (or even boat!) once he heard about the problem until it was all figured out!

Glad you got it figured out

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Originally Posted by Slab

Awesome job figuring it out, and sharing your experience. Thanks Dougy, glad you got it figured out. One thing though, I'm surprised Ricky didn't move into your house (or even boat!) once he heard about the problem until it was all figured out!

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He had already worked on my boat for 40 hours this week. After that I’d have to pay overtime. [emoji12]

He was in contact by phone but there’s no doubt we both learned a bunch.

I realized this was a problem that others could experience, maybe not from the same reason. Knowing how to check for the stray voltage was the only way I could have figured it out. Thanks to Blake at Skinny Water Marine!


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Glad you got it figured out and able to get the problem fixed. Hunting for electrical ghosts can be a major headache for sure. And thank you so much for sharing with us.

Haven't read all post, was 1-2-3-4 Bank chargers , which ever you have. Where they isolated when bolted or screwed.

Most glass boat's don't have that, tin boats can