Whats the difference? When to use which? I'm just getting into this. Ive been watching a TON of videos while waiting for my stuff to get here. Some guys use the above stuff at different parts of jig making some dont. Is their some general rules I need to know?
Only one of these you have listed I use is UV resin. I use it on my jigheads after I cure the paint and have epoxied the eyes on if they have it. I coat the head with it.
If i had one to choose it would be UV resin. It does everything the the others do but more if you get creative.
Welcome to the site.
All four have a purpose, and each can be cross purposed. As you develop your techniques you will also develop a preference for when to use which. Attaching 3D eyes for example. You can use super glue to stick them to the jig head, or you could use Sally Hansen to stick them, or you could simply overcoat them with UV resin. You could utilize two of them and glue the eyes on and then overcoat with resin. My point is everyone develops a preference based on how things go for them. What seems to work best for them, or what is easiest.
I use super glue to keep plastic baits attached to my jig heads.
I use UV resin to secure 3D eyes to jig heads.
I use Sally Hansen when I think my thread wrap might come undone.
I do not own any head cement.
The search feature on this site can get a little crazy. I get easily distracted as I search for something I want to learn about. The good news is you can always post up and folks will gladly answer. Bear in mind that this site is where kind people hang out and they love pictures, so post up your work and ask your questions. I mean they let me stick around so they are very tolerant.
Welcome from Alabama.
Personally, I will use Sally Henson fingernail polish on the bare hook just to start wrapping the tying thread on the hook. After that I just periodically put a drop of head cement on any knot or whip finish. Here are a couple videos you can learn from. Hope this helps.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPFP-UOKuKc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7fXozWmwVD8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J_Fu2qZqL2M
If tying chenille jigs, I make my own and leaves no hard spot and holds well.
I mix about 50/50 Clear High Gloss Lacquer and Thinner. Goes in and dries fast!
I use Softex for thread neck jigs and is very durable and come in a jar you can apply with a bodkin or wood skewer sticks like I do using the sharp end for this.
Super Glue, I find a few places to use this and one is when I am tying rabbit strips after I tie it in near the bend of the hook. Probably a few more places I use it, but just not on my mind now, but very few!
UV Glue is so different and many ties used on the head of a fly, but there are other places you can use if for sure, but only usually an exposed area. There are some very cool ways to sue this stuff really!
Skip
Top coat clear nail polish or jell works great and easily found in your wife’s nail polish collection,,,…lol
I use Sally for most everything and it’s thinned by half with acetone. Both are at Walmart marts polish aisle. Have used super glue but it always goes hard before I use it again.don’t have any resin, yet, but I will one day. Too versatile and tough not to have. You can do a lot with Sally if you put your mind to it. I begin a jig with a spot of Sally to secure the thread to the shank and finish with between a spot to a full collar to make em tough. It’s worked well for me so far.
Skeetbum - turn your super glue upside down when your not using it. It won’t go hard on you.
Hey guys buying them little bottles of Hard as Nails cost a lot more than what I do and Lacquer is all Nail Polish is. So something like 15 years ago I got a Qt. Can of Lacquer and a can of thinner and I still have a lot of it left and when mixed 50/50 ish it's the same as Sally's and thinner, lol! I bet the cost of them little bottles of Sally's over 20 years which is what I figure this will last me, the little bottles is gonna cost more!
Skip
When you say thinner you mean regular lacquer thinner? I just want to be clear.Quote:
Originally Posted by skiptomylu
Yes, I use it all the time. There are a lot of different thinners out there and I happen to buy MEK when I bought mine, but other lacquer thinner should work the same. Lacquer even the High Gloss Clear like I use has that slight yellow color to it and when I thin it the yellow is pretty much gone. I keep it thin so it soaks in super fast and leaves no spot you can feel when it's dry!Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy Denzer
Just get the same thing if you were going to coat something in Lacquer and needed a thinner to clean up with.
Skip
I'm still planning to do this Skip whenever I run out of the current head cement I have. Just takes forever one drop at a time to use it up.... :Rofl The "no hard spot" is what I'm after.
You may want to explore safer thinners than Methel Ethel Ketone -
Emergency Overview: Clear colourless volatile liquid. Sweet odour. HIGHLY FLAMMABLE LIQUID AND VAPOUR. Distant ignition and flashback are possible. May cause drowsiness and dizziness. IRRITANT. Causes moderate or severe eye irritation. ASPIRATION hazard. May be harmful if swallowed and enters airways.
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Yes it's nasty stuff, but I handle it with Oral Syringes when I mix it with my Lacquer and really use the same syringe for the Lacquer and I put it in one of the little plastic bottles to use it. I even make some flexible glue using even worse things than MEK. Also why I really prefer buying Softex than make it, but have done both.Quote:
Originally Posted by slowhand
I like UV resin for securing thread and material to the hook shank because once it's cured you don't have to worry about it sticking to your fingers like other glues. Kind of a pain having to pick up the curing lamp though. The stuff made for fly tying is expensive for how much you get. I found some odor-free resin for jewelry and model making that is much cheaper by volume and came with tints so I've been using that.
I use Fly-Tite head cement for securing the tie-off but I had a bunch from back when the bottles were 2 ounces. Now they are 1 ounce and the price is the same. It works great and has no smell but once I run out I probably won't buy more.
Howdy All;Quote:
Originally Posted by slowhand
Way back when (1969), I was assigned to the paint locker at the Air Station I was assigned to. After sloshing some MEK around in
a paint pot used for spray painting to soften the contents I just tossed it out onto the road that ran along side the 'locker'. After getting the
container cleaned out I decided to have a smoke. Stepped away from the 'locker' by about 20' or so. Tossed the match towards the road ...
WHOOOMPH !!!:yikes the whole road was on fire. From maybe 2 or 3 oz. of MEK there was now a section about 9' w X 14' l . Used the over
sized CO2 extinguisher to put it out. When I got back to the main shop I called the Fire Dept. to let them know that I'd "noticed" that the
safety tag was missing from that extinguisher and they might want to check it out.
hank