Trailer bunks

I'm getting ready to move my bunks over a bit and extend them a little for another hull. My previous boat is 17 and the new is 18. I can move the bow stop up 6-8 inches. And make the bunks 6-8 inches longer. Right now the bunk extends about 4 inches past the back bracket. Along with asking for suggestions & recommendations my question is....if I put 4 inch channel underneath my bunk boards to strengthen it will it make it too rigid and harm my boat?

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I wouldn't think so.

You will have to look it over and think it over. Weight distribution is very important.
My boat loaded on the trailer pulled great with about half a tank of fuel or less. (20 gallon tank) If the tank was full, as I hauled it I could feel "Tongue Lift" at the rear of my truck with just about every bump in the road. In my opinion, with the engine AND most of the fuel tank behind the axle, I decided to move the bow stop post forward 6" to move more weight to the front or more on the axle. It worked.
Funny how just a little redistribution of where the boat sits on the trailer can make such a difference.

Thanks GPB.

Why do some trailers have bunks with the boards laying flat and some laying standing up....did that make sense... face up or side up? Which way is stronger.

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I think it’s boat model and hull configuration layout (angles etc).

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Originally Posted by catchNgrease

Thanks GPB.

Why do some trailers have bunks with the boards laying flat and some laying standing up....did that make sense... face up or side up? Which way is stronger.

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Side up is stronger. Just like an I-beam but without the top and bottom cords. Most bunks are faced up/down though because they have multiple connection points to the trailer and the boat itself is rigid so the load goes straight from the boat to the bunk and the support points and into the trailer. The bunk itself in the midspans is just really supporting the boat while it's being loaded and unloaded. It also helps the boat sit lower on the trailer which is usually beneficial. The bunks turned up on their side are more common on jon boat trailers where the trailer only has a couple of mounting points for the bunks and if the bunk is cantilevered off of the rear support a good ways. I think a lot are cantilevered like that because jon trailers are more universal and made to fit many different length of hulls while most larger boats have semi to fully custom matching trailers.

If you extend them back a little ways based on the boat being longer you could add some sort of angle to the underside of the bunk or maybe fab up some type of gusset or strut from the bunk end to the bottom of the trailer cross member. I'd probably extend it without any other modifications and then see if it deflects any when you put the new boat on. No noticeable movement you could leave as is. If there is some you explore adding supports. Although extending the tongue may be be practical solution as it helps you keep the boat balanced on the axle.

Scout-jm

Thanks for that. My trailer only has two contact points. I did stand the boards up. I also added two more bunks. Do you see it being a problem not adding carpet and putting the boat on the bare wood? The wood is not treat.


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Originally Posted by catchNgrease

Scout-jm

Thanks for that. My trailer only has two contact points. I did stand the boards up. I also added two more bunks. Do you see it being a problem not adding carpet and putting the boat on the bare wood? The wood is not treat.


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If its an aluminum boat with a less than perfect bottom paint job I dont think it would matter. Would want carpet or something else if its glass.

A brand new aluminum boat. Will it hurt the aluminum?

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It want slide good on just the wood ! And the wood will splinter up pretty quick if not covered !
Also it will scratch/scar up the bottom of the boat !

I would definitely want to carpet them, personally, especially on a new boat.

Dirt embedded into the wood. Will eventually polish a hole into the bottom of the boat. Carpet is a pretty cheap cushion to help prevent that

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Originally Posted by DockShootinJack

Dirt embedded into the wood. Will eventually polish a hole into the bottom of the boat. Carpet is a pretty cheap cushion to help prevent that

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Good point

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In addition to hauling, I think of my trailer as a bed for my boat to lay and sleep on.
No carpet on the bunks would be like you sleeping on a bare hardwood floor.
I also think about overall support for the hull - bunks rearward enough to help support the transom and forward bunk area and keel roller to support the bow area.
And of course, as mentioned before, good weight distribution.
CE Smith and others offer good bunk carpet in a variety of thickness that drains and dries fairly well. If building from scratch, a slight taper cut on the stern ends is good, Stainless Steel T50 staples in the appropriate length (They have a chart on the back of the packages, I tend to use 9/16").
Oh, and let us know if you stay with rear straps or go with buckles. I am curious about those things, and will decide between now and my next bunk job too.

I had a set of trailer mount ratchet straps. They work nicely. On the new boat I have two of the cam buckle straps to tie the boat to the trailer. They work well also

Hadn't thought about a keel roller but that's easy enough. And I definitely want this boat to rest easy. I hope this is my last one. As far as the buckles I wanted make sure what was being asked. If we are talking about these things. IMO they are worth every penny. I've had these on both my fishing boats and the family pleasure boat. They are really nice.Attachment 420275

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Those are definitely great. I had a set on my last boat trailer.

Yep, that's them. Guess that will be on my list. Thanks!

I put caliber bunk wrap on my bunks & have been completely satisfied. I was told not to put them on gelcoat boats because it would skin them if power loading. I put trailer a little deeper, pull up to bow eye & tighten winch up & have not skinned mine up a bit. You definitely want to leave winch connected until you're at the waters edge, but other than that i haven't had a single issue.

May also want to consider bunk slides but they are super slick. But you can use quality marine carpet and use silicone spray on them..

I replaced my bunks with synthetic, one thing I did not take into account is how slick they are. Be cautious if you use spray or anything to make them slicker. It actually made recovery harder because when I got to the bow stop I had to leave the motor in gear until the bow hook was attached. Not a huge issue if you have someone to hook it, pain in the neck if you’re alone. I ended up installing a Drotto latch and it is much simpler to load and recover alone now.

I know what you mean my sea nymph came on a trailer with rollers always have to keep it in gear or it rolls back in the lake :yikes

Just thinkin', it might be that most carpeted bunks that didn't slide well for my family years ago was similar to household carpet, and not anything like today's bunk carpets that are not cotton based, but more synthetic type material. They say the newer stuff dries faster where as cotton based would hold water longer presenting all kinds of problems (Mold, wood rot, etc.). It's a fine line between slick, and too slick. I used to have the habit of backing my empty trailer deep down the ramp to wet the bunks, but I have not done that in years, I just don't need to. However, I do keep my winch tight until the transom is at the water edge during launch, just to be sure!

the bottom of the boat is curved. If you stand the boards up, you won't make full contact on the bottom of the boat. Posible causing dents/damage to the boat. Lay the boards on there side, and craddle the bottom. Add carpet, or other material to protect the bottom.