I have to redo the carpet on my Ranger. I’m going to go ahead and replace the wood and carpet.Ranger said to use regular pressure treated wood from Home Depot.I will be getting 24 oz bunk carpet.
Any opinions?
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I have to redo the carpet on my Ranger. I’m going to go ahead and replace the wood and carpet.Ranger said to use regular pressure treated wood from Home Depot.I will be getting 24 oz bunk carpet.
Any opinions?
Try using the 1x4 pvc boards in leu of the carpet. Use stainless steel fasteners and countersink them below the surface of the PVC. Should make the Surface slicker and rot free.
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Sounds good to me. Be sure to use Stainless Steel Staples. Some good videos on Youtube showing how to get neat ends with a clean, tapered fold. I like a little opening along the bottom, helps it all dry out. Take your time, and have fun with it, it's not too bad.Quote:
Originally Posted by striperking
I replaced the bunks on my trailer with composite and they are very slick, if you go that route just be prepared to change your launch routine.
Would you glue and staple or just staple?
I’ve talked to a few places that do them and they said they glue and staple but how does glue stick to wet pressure treated wood.
And there saying 24 oz carpet is to thick and won’t dry out and causes blisters.
I have used stainless steel staples with good results. An air stapler is also nice. I believe the staple size is T50. Think I got them 9/16 or 5/8's. The air stapler really sinks them in there. Doesn't cost much more than a regular hand stapler
I'd use 2x4 pressure treated and a 4 inch vinyl downspout cut in half. Use stainless screws on the side.
The CE Smith bunk carpet has good reviews
Has anyone used any?
I like glue AND staple. I just hand staple, and if some don't go in far enough to suit you, just light hammer tap them down. You sure don't want them forced in too deep.
T50 Stainless is correct. Oh, and my technique for loading my boat is to back in a little deep, then pull out to THE SPOT to wet the bunks, then drive the boat on.
And, as mentioned, a gap in the middle of the bottom is a must IMHO.
Some folks paint or stain the boards, at least any cut ends. Do it right, and they may outlast you or the rig.
I did the same. I Go to the waters edge before I unhookQuote:
Originally Posted by cattoon
That is a good practice to have. I have seen a few boats dumped onto the ramp. Mine stays hooked until the trailer wheels go into the waterQuote:
Originally Posted by Dollfly
If your boat is aluminum don’t use pressure treated wood.
I did that first time taking new boat to the water! That boat is slick on the bottom!Quote:
Originally Posted by DockShootinJack
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What do manufacturers use then? Brand new Tracker and I’d assume the bunks are PT!Quote:
Originally Posted by slabin
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Aluminum boat manufacturers may be using a different product for the bunks. The chemicals that are used in the new eco-friendly pressure treated wood will Leach through the carpet and into the aluminum and eat pinholes in the hull. It's the same reason why there is a disclaimer on a box of aluminum trim coil that says do not use directly over treated wood. I did this on some treated 4 x 6 post one time and the chemicals in the wood ate the aluminum at the ground level
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My take is that gluing bunk carpet holds water too much. Some multi purpose glues aren’t applicable for long term wet situations. If you have questions about chemical content compatibility then consider cypress. Very strong and long wet life. IMHO, I’d rather get the right wood and replace the carpet a couple of times. I don’t care for the plastic slide stuff. Guess I’m just old school.
I did mine and just used indoor/outdoor carpet from Home Depot. Yes, definitely stainless staples. I borrowed my neighbors air stapler which made it way easier.Quote:
Originally Posted by striperking
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