Rod Balancing

Hello all ! Well I finally put my money where my mouth is and built a 9 ft medium light crappie rod . The objective is a casting rod for casting 1/16 to 1/8 oz jigs which the blank I bought is rated for . I used the Fuji KR guide system hoping to improve casting distance and reduce wind knots . The build went well I had studied a lot before starting . Now down to the purpose of this post . The rod is done other than gluing on the butt cap . Its obviously tip heavy , but the rod itself is fairly light , the blank weighed 2.1 oz when I started . I have been reading on rod balancing since I started this project and find it interesting . I have a delima though to balance my rod I would have to add 4 oz of ballast to the butt of the rod . That seems a lot to me and I fear it will deaden the overall sensitivity . If I were to do it again I would have adjusted the grip position a bit to help compensate for the long rod . Ok not knowing what to do I am seeking advice from the more experienced rod builders on reccomendations to balance or not to balance in this situation . As usual I thank you for your help its a huge plus for me.

Put the reel your going to use on the rod and add weight until it gets balanced. The weight will not affect the rod in anyway. A tip heavy rod after a long day will feel heavier then a balanced rod even with the added weight. I know is sounds backwards but some rods like flipping sticks I add 2 to 3 Oz tungsten bbs to the butt just for that reason.

I have an 8’ rod that is tip heavy and I hate it! It came with weights to add to butt and I’ve added them all and it’s still tip heavy. Guess I need some tungsten or a gift bow...... Lol

Definitely add the reel. That will shift it's balance point of the rod to the back toward the handle. Once your reel is on then you can adjust the balance point to your liking

Put the reel your going to use on the rod and add weight until it gets balanced. The weight will not affect the rod in anyway. A tip heavy rod after a long day will feel heavier then a balanced rod even with the added weight. I know is sounds backwards but some rods like flipping sticks I add 2 to 3 Oz tungsten bbs to the butt just for that reason.

Two things I don't want to be tip heavy is a fishing rod and a shotgun. Both of those are a pleasure to use when they are balanced. They seem to float to where you point them

Thanks for the replies . I assumed it would be a given that I put the reel on to calculate the amount of weight needed to balance the rod . Seems like go ahead and add the weight is the concensous . Will adding the weight negatively affectcthe rods sensitivity ? I know it will be more comfortable to use balanced .

I would think it would add to the sensitivity. If the rod is floating in your hand with neutral tip forward weight surely a smaller peck would be more noticeable than if the rod was tip heavy

Thats my insticts too that it will add to sensitivity . It just seems backwards thinking to add weight ,but , when I tape a counter balance weight on it feels much more comfortable to hold . As in MUCH more comfortable . Ok thank you all for the help I am gonna do this !

To allow adjustability in the future I would not glue the butt cap on. If something is needed to secure it a short section of heatshrink tubing does a nice job. Can be removed and the rod balanced again to a different reel.

Adjustability in the future is a good idea i will ponder that !

Just curious. Why a 9' rod. I've built probably 20 ultra light and light power crappie rods. All of mine were from 5 1/2' to 7' long. Micro running guides on most of them. They were fairly well balanced without any additionally balancing weights.

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I fish the banks and feel the longer rods cast farther . Not saying I am right just my personal preference.

Instead of adding weight, why don't you just do what the fly anglers and salmon/steelhead anglers do, grab the rod after casting in front of the reel and use it as your counterweight, no extra weight, less mass, more sensitivity. If your rod is massively tip heavy you put the wrong guides on, or to 0many of them. Any increase in mass, no matter how it is positioned will rob sesitivity, remember one of Newton's laws says any increase in mass is harder to start, or stop, exactly the opposite of what is needed for maximum casting efficiency.

The idea of moving my hand up the rod to a balance point was considered. Ultimately AFTER casting the rod several times with and without a balancing weight taped to the rod . I felt it was more comfortable for me to counterweight . The guides I used were Fuji micro guides and the number I used was the recommended number Fuji reccomends. I was concerned about the mass increase but we are talking balance point here and experienced rod builders assured me it was not a big issue . I really appreciate your thoughts as I have other longer rods that I intend on moving my had position to balance as I fish . Seems to me the main issue for me now is to use a light hand as I hold the rod and utilize the balance point regularly . Not sure I will build another rod again as this one cost me $160 and I shopped around for that price . BUT! I may just find the rod fishes better than other rods I have had in the past in that case I will build a few more rods for specific applications. Time will tell reguardless all the people here have been great to me . I have learned a lot about fishing rods .

If the tip top I use is 1/3 lighter, and the guides I use feel 48 times lighter for the first guide, 45 for the second guide, 42 for the third guide, etc. from the tip how can anyone say guide size isn't important when balancing your rod? Somebody didn't take their math classes seriously.

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Originally Posted by Spoonplugger1

If the tip top I use is 1/3 lighter, and the guides I use feel 48 times lighter for the first guide, 45 for the second guide, 42 for the third guide, etc. from the tip how can anyone say guide size isn't important when balancing your rod? Somebody didn't take their math classes seriously.

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:popcorn:popcorn:Rofl

[QUOTE=Spoonplugger1;4165048]If the tip top I use is 1/3 lighter, and the guides I use feel 48 times lighter for the first guide, 45 for the second guide, 42 for the third guide, etc. from the tip how can anyone say guide size isn't important when balancing your rod? Somebody didn't

I used the lightest guides I could find .

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Originally Posted by DockShootinJack

:popcorn:popcorn:Rofl

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That is exactly correct. I have rebuilt many factory rods and a number of rods that I built years ago. I used #3 and #4 micro guides. All the weight gone from the top section of these rods. I only build with micro 's now. I build both spin and casting rods. When I pick up a old rod built many years ago with the old high frame guides its like picking up a pipe!! An exaggeration but a world of difference and sensitivity. Some of my bass casting rods have 20 # monofilament with #3 micros for every guide. Cast like a dream.

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Originally Posted by z520tom

That is exactly correct. I have rebuilt many factory rods and a number of rods that I built years ago. I used #3 and #4 micro guides. All the weight gone from the top section of these rods. I only build with micro 's now. I build both spin and casting rods. When I pick up a old rod built many years ago with the old high frame guides its like picking up a pipe!! An exaggeration but a world of difference and sensitivity. Some of my bass casting rods have 20 # monofilament with #3 micros for every guide. Cast like a dream.

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Sure seemed that fella was trolling . That judgment is caused my response. As I look at his other post I realize I was in error.

I use these #3 and #4 micros for my running guides on both my spinning and casting builds. They have served me well. Attachment 407188

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I fish 20 lb braid regularly with 2 mm guides on my lighter powered steelhead rods to 13 ft long. Complaining about a 9 ft rods balance and how fatigued makes me shake my head with wonder. Fished 8 ft 3 in Fenwick Fenglass rods for steelhead and salmon when I was nine, 9 ft. fiberglass than graphite to the 15 - 30 line class since they started building them, never once felt fatigued even when fishing weeks during the long days of Alaskan summers.

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Originally Posted by Spoonplugger1

I fish 20 lb braid regularly with 2 mm guides on my lighter powered steelhead rods to 13 ft long. Complaining about a 9 ft rods balance and how fatigued makes me shake my head with wonder. Fished 8 ft 3 in Fenwick Fenglass rods for steelhead and salmon when I was nine, 9 ft. fiberglass than graphite to the 15 - 30 line class since they started building them, never once felt fatigued even when fishing weeks during the long days of Alaskan summers.

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I dont think anyone is complaining about fatigue here the main issue is sensitivity and comfort . I am trying to learn by posting here not complain .

20 years ago I could have fished with a 3/4 inch galvanized pipe all day and smiled about it. Damage to elbows and wrists over the years and the inevitable arthritis that comes from hard physical work. Fatigue and comfort do beome issues. Rods and reels have become lighter and more balanced over the years. Mainly the advancements have been driven the consumer demand for such equipment.

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Originally Posted by DockShootinJack

20 years ago I could have fished with a 3/4 inch galvanized pipe all day and smiled about it. Damage to elbows and wrists over the years and the inevitable arthritis that comes from hard physical work. Fatigue and comfort do beome issues. Rods and reels have become lighter and more balanced over the years. Mainly the advancements have been driven the consumer demand for such equipment.

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Yeah ! What he said lol !

I think balance is more of an issue when swinging with a two hander, where a well balanced rod will significantly reduce fatigue during the swing (read more here) . Single handers... Not so much.