I have 2 batteries to make 24 volts to trolling motor. If I hook my helix to one of them does it pull from both? I ask because I have a new helix coming. Will have 2 units running at this time. Do I need to hook to the other battery?
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I have 2 batteries to make 24 volts to trolling motor. If I hook my helix to one of them does it pull from both? I ask because I have a new helix coming. Will have 2 units running at this time. Do I need to hook to the other battery?
If you are hooked to one battery it will only see 12 volts. Most electronics recommend a separate battery so the trolling motor does not produce interference
I run 2 x 10” helix all day off cranking battery . No issues
if I had room I’d run separate battery for units but no room so I carry a set of jumper cables just in case I ever get in a bid and need a boost!
Interference from TM and stealing power from your 24 V. system is not good in my neck of the woods cause my TM runs a lot in current. Mine are on my start battery but that is not ideal either. I just don't have room for another bat.
I have a stick boat. One battery up front and one in the back. My control board is hooked to front battery plus my helix 10. Havent noticed any interference. Nothing to rear battery. Was going to run new power from back battery. Nothing is hooked to starting battery, that scares me . Don't want to get stranded.
I kept a pair of jumper cables. It has saved a trip sereral times.
Independent battery to electronic devices is my recommendation if you have room.
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I have put together a dewalt 20v system for my electronics! This way I never have to worry about draining any power from big batteries.
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Did you use a dc/dc converter to reduce the voltage?
Yes I did! I have a 2 battery system in parallel! I can run my Garmin Echomap UHD 7 SV all day on 2 batteries.
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Those 4 and 5ah batteries will run a lot
Don't connect your Sonar units to the Trolling Motor batteries. You'll have interference issues on the sonar units. I went with a larger cranking battery, group 31, for all my boat electrical needs (pumps, sonar, main motor, lights, aerators, stereo, etc. Always had plenty of power to start the main motor even after a day of spider rigging during a Crappie Tournament. Pumps running, sonar, M360, etc. all on, even the stereo is on. 8 hours running all of it and the main fires right up.
Never had an issue taking the grandkids out swimming off the boat either. Anchored up in a cave cranking the tunes, and swimming all day. Fires right up.
I too don't have room for a dedicated electronics battery, but I do have room for a group 31 and it has performed flawlessly.
Be an easy way to get power at the front of the boat. Provided you already have the batteries
I already had 5 batteries for all of my tools! I used a Cabelas ammo box to mount the system in. Attached it to the boat with a cheap Johnny Ray mount. Bought my battery bases from Makermotor for a lot less then anyone else sells them. The DC converter was $9 on EBay. I also put a USB charger and voltage meter on the top. It works great.
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How long will they run your electronics?
I’ve been out 8 hours and have yet to have my 2 battery setup be below 2 bars on each battery. Last Friday my buddy and I were out for 5 hours and my single battery setup on the console still had 1 bar and was showing 11.9 v on the screen when we finished for the day.
Keep in mind, I’m only running the Garmin echomap uhd 73SV.
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I can post pics of my setup tomorrow if anyone wants to see it. I did all of the work myself.
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Good amount of run time. Do you notice decreased run times in cold weather?
I know when using power tools the batteries do not last as long around the freezing point. The electronics may fair better since it is a lower amp draw
Well, I’m not one to be fishing around the freezing point! Most likely hunting! LOL
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That is understandable
Lots of us run our ice fishing electronics on tool batteries. I had a stash of ryobi batteries so I went that route last year. Just need an adapter with pigtails (mine was $8), an adjustable DC voltage regulator ($9), and some kind of project box to keep water out. I've ran them down to 0F and had no issues. With garmin units, you dont have to use the DC regulator as they will run at 20-22V without issue. My humminbirds will not run over 18V even though they are supposed to be rated to 20V (all 18-20V tool batteries should be 20.5V charged and 17V dead). I knocked mine down to 13V with the regulator so it just outputs that until the batteries are dead. I will be using garmin this coming season, and will use a normal 12V lithium 12ah battery.
Math is pretty easy, you just take your draw and divide your battery capacity by that draw. So a 6ah battery will power a echomap 7sv (1a draw) for roughly 6 hours. That's max draw from garmin, and as you increase voltage the power draw is reduced slightly so keep that in mind.
The new 12V lithium batteries out now are pretty impressive, you can get a 12V 18AH lifepo4 battery for around $100. That'll run all your electronics for the day without issue if you aren't running massive stuff. The lithium is 5 pounds and takes up hardly any room.
I have looking into the 12v lithium batteries as well. I haven't figured out which electronics I will put on the front deck yet so I have some time
If you use the whole 24V from the trolling battery and run it thru a step down DC-DC device ..... It's POSSIBLE you would get enough isolation from the trolling motor battery to prevent interference .... but I have not tried it.
I thought about trying that, but in the end decided I wanted the electronics totally isolated from everything else and got a dedicated LiFeP04 battery just for electronics. Mine has a Bluetooth BMS and status and parameters can be adjusted from a phone.
If you have a while before you need to decide, order one direct via Alibaba and save some money ....all the LiFe batteries come from China anyway .... or make your own using individual cells if you are handy with this stuff. If you decide to try ordering direct, shoot me a PM and I will give you a forum where you can do your homework to find a reputable seller.
The more I think about the voltage regulator. The more it seems like a possible fail point. I do realize that it would not leave you stranded yet I get very few days a month to get on the water. Having your electronics crap out on you would put a damper on the day. I work with robotics and industrial automation. Electronics crapping out at the worst possible time keeps me employed well that and operators that find the right pushbutton combinations to lock up the controls system. Buying the cells and building your own battery would be a good way to go.
One of my boats is a Key West 1720 which has the battery compartment in the stern for both my batteries.
The factory prewired for the bow trolling motor, but there is no good way to get a wire up there for a seperate fish finder.
There is an anchor compartment however which i dont really need for fresh water fishing.
So i bought an ammo box and installed a small gel cell battery in that.
I also installed a small charging unit in there.
I only use a small basic fish finder unit up there which does have down imaging.
I can run that unit for 2 full days without recharging.
I can also remove the whole setup by just removing the ammo box and unpluging the wires.
There are some holes in the box sides for feeding the wires, but i drilled a small one in the bottom also for drainage if necessary.
I used a small gel battery to power the electronics in the kayak. It worked great for the fish finder I had then
I watch a lot of his videos