New DIY Rig

Okay......so before any thoughts or comments of how I'm using PVC on a brand new skiff, a little history should be told. Haha. I've waited almost 8 years to be able to afford to purchase this skiff. Prior to this I hadn't tried speck fishing but wanted to get into it after I got the boat. After all the bells and whistles, I just couldnt justify puttinf on some high dollar trolling/drifting system.

With that said, after my first trip a few weeks ago with my 5 year old son and 8 year old daughter.....WE ARE HOOKED! I wanted something that was easy to remove and did not want to drill any holes in the deck. After playing around with some ideas, I decided to utilize the under gunnel rod holders as the foundation of the rig.

Any suggestions or thoughts on ways to improve it's function? (Primarily long lining)

As of now, I don't have any true speck rods with any length so with the current layout I will only be able to run the six rear olders. (3 on each side) I've been wondering though, and this may be a stupid question but has anyone ever tried spider rigging and long lining at the same time? I typically troll around .08 mph and was thinking I could possible rig the front two holders towards the bow with weighted down jigs or tipped minnows? Thoughts?

Attachment 393873Attachment 393874Attachment 393875Attachment 393876


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You can absolutely long line and spider rig at .8 mph. It's really just slow longlining. And more so, side of boat spider rigging with extra weight. lol

Keeping the jigs in the zone (how far off the bottom) is really all you are trying to do. And also the right speed. Finding the zone and the speed is the trick. And you vary it all, with obviously your speed, but also how far out you let the line out and how heavy your jigs are. If you want more speed and lower depth, you have to let line out and or add more weight. Play with it. Pick you line up often and see if you're collecting muck. I've found here on Griffin I seem to have to be close to the bottom to catch'em. And I also know that if I got muck on the jig, there will not be fish on it too. You'll see me checking my lines and tossing them back out very often. Always gotta be doing something. Good luck, and your idea looks great. IMHO you could have placed a few closer together for more convenience, and changed their angle, or even perhaps use different rod lengths to get clearance from each other. I use all 6 footers off the back, and I use nine footers and 14 footers off the front to get the spread.

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Originally Posted by Slab

You can absolutely long line and spider rig at .8 mph. It's really just slow longlining. And more so, side of boat spider rigging with extra weight. lol

Keeping the jigs in the zone (how far off the bottom) is really all you are trying to do. And also the right speed. Finding the zone and the speed is the trick. And you vary it all, with obviously your speed, but also how far out you let the line out and how heavy your jigs are. If you want more speed and lower depth, you have to let line out and or add more weight. Play with it. Pick you line up often and see if you're collecting muck. I've found here on Griffin I seem to have to be close to the bottom to catch'em. And I also know that if I got muck on the jig, there will not be fish on it too. You'll see me checking my lines and tossing them back out very often. Always gotta be doing something. Good luck, and your idea looks great. IMHO you could have placed a few closer together for more convenience, and changed their angle, or even perhaps use different rod lengths to get clearance from each other. I use all 6 footers off the back, and I use nine footers and 14 footers off the front to get the spread.

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Thanks Slab! Great info/feedback. I'll let you know how it works when I get out there next!


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If later you decide totry something else, that tower on the stern looks like a great opportunity. Looks like you got the boat you wanted and it looks like you are serious.

Nice looking boat ! I like your set up. some good thinking went into that. I also would move the holders closer together for easier reaching.

1st off beautiful skiff, my Salt Marsh has that same "mini" console centered like yours, did Mel @ Anakona boat works do your build? Just curious....the poles aren't that big of a deal, other than different lengths (long-lining), however, you will find with the rod tips closer to the water will allow depth & turning control better as well as wind affect on the lines...tight-lining out the front w/weights u-can turn on a dime (Usually want longer poles 10FT plus to keep away from trolling motor, ect..), which unfortunately you'll never be able to make turns so tight long-lining while turning, but on a lake you can do both w/wide sweeping turns. Good luck & take a little bit of info from different set-ups & make your own that your comfortable with...here's a couple pics poles top to bottom 10ft, 8ft, 6.6ft, 5.6ft & 4ft(standing up against back rod) both rod holders built under $50 alum 1"by 1", stainless fasteners, rod holders(when they were $3 each)....nothing wrong w/what you've got, just some some ideas...bases that hold the racks unscrew in seconds when converting back to "salt" inland fishing...

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Originally Posted by Speck Detector

1st off beautiful skiff, my Salt Marsh has that same "mini" console centered like yours, did Mel @ Anakona boat works do your build? Just curious....the poles aren't that big of a deal, other than different lengths (long-lining), however, you will find with the rod tips closer to the water will allow depth & turning control better as well as wind affect on the lines...tight-lining out the front w/weights u-can turn on a dime (Usually want longer poles 10FT plus to keep away from trolling motor, ect..), which unfortunately you'll never be able to make turns so tight long-lining while turning, but on a lake you can do both w/wide sweeping turns. Good luck & take a little bit of info from different set-ups & make your own that your comfortable with...here's a couple pics poles top to bottom 10ft, 8ft, 6.6ft, 5.6ft & 4ft(standing up against back rod) both rod holders built under $50 alum 1"by 1", stainless fasteners, rod holders(when they were $3 each)....nothing wrong w/what you've got, just some some ideas...bases that hold the racks unscrew in seconds when converting back to "salt" inland fishing...

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Speck Detector- I didn't work with Mel, mostly Erin the whole time but they are some awesome people and build some awesome skiffs! Ive been eyeing them for some time and wanted a boat I could not only fish out of but get skinny and hunt as well. After covid, the finished product took a little longer than expected while waiting for the Tohatsu 50 to come in. I just got it in December and I absolutely love it!

Great feedback and I appreciate it. The previous PVC rig I had was mounted to the poling platform and got a little hectic with my two kids and I trying to handle numerous rods going off haha Basically this current option is just something that'll get the job done for now and will allow us to be able to spread out a bit more.......at least until I know exactly what I want and will be confident enough to drill holes [emoji23][emoji23]

I really like your setup. Initially I was thinking flush mounts along with other ideas. Like your rig, I just want something that is removable. What area are you from?


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And what seats are those??


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Thought that console looked familiar, yep their boats were the only ones I could afford w/kevlar.... I'm from Oviedo in Central Florida & the seats are Millennium salt rated pedastal type, have been very satisfied with them for wash down, back support, ect....you"ll add personal touches to your boat as time goes on, but looks good as is, btw what model is yours?

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It's the SM 1656. I'm from Brevard but go all over the place exploring. If you ever see me, give a holler!


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Here’s my setup similar to Detectors. Attachment 393976

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Originally Posted by sc53

Here’s my setup similar to Detectors. Attachment 393976

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Nice, I like it! how is it mounted?


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I have mounts for removable rod holder, like you get at academy or BP.
1/2” pvc fit perfect into the mount holes.

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Originally Posted by 321Speckn

It's the SM 1656. I'm from Brevard but go all over the place exploring. If you ever see me, give a holler!


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Wow, mine is SM 1656 ...(2015 version) the cap is so different on yours, wider gunnels, front hatch, double rear hatches, like my rear hatch (Mel modified mine from original cap) for the seat arrangement, but would have liked a front one, as both batteries are installed there w/ gas tank to offset weight front to back, & for access, will definitely look out for ya....work @ the space center & fish Mosquito lagoon on Fridays, when the speck bite slows....

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What size PVC is that, 1.5"? Looks pretty functional to me! Could try doing a 3 rod holder in the back corner with a PVC cross fitting and a couple elbows.

It's 1 1/4.

Back two hatches - livewell and battery/storage.
Front hatch trolling motor battery, 12 g fuel tank and dry storage. It's crazy how much they have changed. I've been wanting one since around 2014/2015


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Very nice project of Plastic Variable Configuration = PVC - measure/cut/re-cut:Rofl Should offer plenty protection against your fishing trips going "down the tubes"! As suggested/illustrated L/l'g is less hassle w/horizontal presentation= simple fix for you...replace coupler from 45* to 90* OR add 45* @point of preference.:cheers2 Also if you don't have/want the longer rods>18':yikes you can configure your rod holders to give a lift "tweak" from rear rod(lowest tip to water) progressing forward rod. Definitely an easy-peasy for you in particular.:ThumbsUp

u2s:fish

Do you have any ideas for rod holders on the bow of the boat? Maybe for tight lining or spider rigging. A propane torch or heat gun can easily bend the pvc and get it just where you want it. (pipe will minimize folding of pvc). Also if a bimini top is on the horizon those holes could serve double duty.

great thread on different options for someone trying different stuff out and methods. fished on Slab's boat and he has his side rigs out with different length poles and gets good coverage with two shorter poles off of back. that's what so great about CDC you get such quick feedback when you have ideas and it's usually things that you didn't think about! Best of luck for you and the two utes.