JDM Rod Tip Repair

So I broke off the last two inches of my Yamaga Blanks 71 TZ Nano trying to pull it from the rod sleeve. To get the rod out of the sleeve, you have to push it up from the bottom until you can see the top of the sections in the opening of the sleeve. If you push it too far (as I did) it ends up in a “pocket” of the rod sleeve and if not careful, you can break a tip. I think this is a bad design of this rod sleeve. I will likely alter it, so this doesn’t happen again. The sad thing is that we knew this would happen eventually with this rod sleeve. Those who have a YB know what I’m talking about. Enough about that...

So I think I will attempt a repair myself. I have watched several YouTube videos (I’m an expert now, ha ha ha). If it feels like the action isn’t right after the repair or I mess up the top section of the rod, I will order a new rod section. This rod is 7’ 1”, so it will end up being 6’ 11” after the repair. Who knows, it might still work out good for me. The question I have is does anyone know what type of adhesive JDM rods are made with? Is is a thermoplastic or some other kind of adhesive? If it is a thermoplastic, I should be able to heat up the rod guide and pull the tip top off the broken rod section. Then I can heat up some thermoplastic I have and make the repair and reuse the rod guide. Several YouTube videos indicated that custom rods are made with thermoplastic and production rods are made with other types of adhesives that have a melting point that is often higher than what would damage the rod blank. With this type of adhesive, it is more difficult to remove from the damaged rod blank.


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Originally Posted by D10

So I broke off the last two inches of my Yamaga Blanks 71 TZ Nano trying to pull it from the rod sleeve. To get the rod out of the sleeve, you have to push it up from the bottom until you can see the top of the sections in the opening of the sleeve. If you push it too far (as I did) it ends up in a “pocket” of the rod sleeve and if not careful, you can break a tip. I think this is a bad design of this rod sleeve. I will likely alter it, so this doesn’t happen again. The sad thing is that we knew this would happen eventually with this rod sleeve. Those who have a YB know what I’m talking about. Enough about that...

So I think I will attempt a repair myself. I have watched several YouTube videos (I’m an expert now, ha ha ha). If it feels like the action isn’t right after the repair or I mess up the top section of the rod, I will order a new rod section. This rod is 7’ 1”, so it will end up being 6’ 11” after the repair. Who knows, it might still work out good for me. The question I have is does anyone know what type of adhesive JDM rods are made with? Is is a thermoplastic or some other kind of adhesive? If it is a thermoplastic, I should be able to heat up the rod guide and pull the tip top off the broken rod section. Then I can heat up some thermoplastic I have and make the repair and reuse the rod guide. Several YouTube videos indicated that custom rods are made with thermoplastic and production rods are made with other types of adhesives that have a melting point that is often higher than what would damage the rod blank. With this type of adhesive, it is more difficult to remove from the damaged rod blank.


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If it were me I would use Pro Glue. Simple and quick.

http://proproducts.us/portfolio-product/proglu-glue/

ProGlu Premium 5-Minute Rod Building Epoxy Glue 24ML Pre-Loaded Syringe Kit | mudhole.com

I've used Fuji rod glue sticks and it works but you have to heat it with a lighter.

All of my JDM rods came with sleeves but I don't use them. I keep my active rods stored on a rod rack and transport them in either tubes or a hard plastic Plano gun case.

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Originally Posted by MtnFisher

All of my JDM rods came with sleeves but I don't use them. I keep my active rods stored on a rod rack and transport them in either tubes or a hard plastic Plano gun case.

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Same here.

My input is regardless of the manufacturer. I reclaim the tip with just enough heat, applied slowly, to separate the tip. For installing, if heat is something you don’t want to fool with, and the fit is tight, I use epoxy and set it slightly uphill towards the tip with the guides on the bottom for alignment til it’s hard. It’s worked for me so far. Sorry to hear about your problem, sucks to have an issue with a favorite rod.

I threw the sleeves out. Tict (2), Yamaga, and a Major Craft. They are completely worthless and of no use IMO. I bought a Prox hard rod tube for the rare occasion I take them apart. I usually keep them full length, and they ride in the truck cab with me. Last thing out of the truck when I get there, and first thing out of the boat when I am done. \

I broke my MC Triple cross an inch below the tip, but was able to just super-glue the tip guide back on the blank. The glue doesn't matter, really. I ordered another top half anyway, the repaired one is a spare.

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Originally Posted by jawjatek

I threw the sleeves out. Tict (2), Yamaga, and a Major Craft. They are completely worthless and of no use IMO. I bought a Prox hard rod tube for the rare occasion I take them apart. I usually keep them full length, and they ride in the truck cab with me. Last thing out of the truck when I get there, and first thing out of the boat when I am done. \

I broke my MC Triple cross an inch below the tip, but was able to just super-glue the tip guide back on the blank. The glue doesn't matter, really. I ordered another top half anyway, the repaired one is a spare.

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How did you get the last guide off the broken part? Did you heat it with a lighter or something to get the glue to loosen? I read that “custom” rods are made using thermoplastic glue. It turns to a thick liquid when heated and hardens when cooled. Not sure if JDM rods are “custom” and use thermoplastic glue.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by D10

How did you get the last guide off the broken part? Did you heat it with a lighter or something to get the glue to loosen? I read that “custom” rods are made using thermoplastic glue. It turns to a thick liquid when heated and hardens when cooled. Not sure if JDM rods are “custom” and use thermoplastic glue.


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I've replaced a few rod tips, most were on "Made in China" rods by Daiwa, Abu Garcia etc. Typically you warm the guide up with a lighter and pull the tip off. It does not take much heat. I think you could try warming up the tip slightly with a heat gun and pull the tip off wearing leather gloves. Most but not all adhesives soften with heat.

I would not use Super Glue, there is a website which explains why not to use it.

3 Reasons to Avoid Super Glue in Rod Building - Mud Hole Blog

It will come off with heat. I have had a couple of guides replaced that the Torzite inset came out of.....and one of those was a tip top guide replaced.


Regards


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This is the way I've done it:

How To Replace A Tip Top Guide - Mud Hole Blog

Next time I'll use Pro Glue instead though.

I got the stub out by scraping off all visible glue, then soaking in acetone, then heating with a lighter AFTER wiping off the acetone - it is flammable. Acetone breaks down super glue. If it won't come out with heat, it is likely a cyanoacrylate (super-glue). It came out clean, and I just super-glued it right back on.

Thanks guys. Looks like I have a project tomorrow.


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When you fix it, it will be a faster/ quick tip. Should not hurt the overall performance. My 2cts.

I fix it a couple of days ago. The tip did not want to come off with a heat gun or with acetone. I ended up using a sharp knife to scrape the epoxy off the tip guide and then broke the broken tip off flush with the guide. Then I had to use a super tiny flathead screwdriver to auger out the carbon fiber from the tip. This took a while. I also had to sand down the new tip of the rod blank with fine wet sandpaper because it was a slightly larger diameter than the original blank tip. I then secured it with the correct thermoplastic cement. It looks like to me but it bugs me knowing that it used to be two inches longer. I’m hoping to test it out soon. Also am trying to buy a replacement rod section but can’t get a response from anyone. I’m guessing no one has any extra rod sections in stock.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by D10

I fix it a couple of days ago. The tip did not want to come off with a heat gun or with acetone. I ended up using a sharp knife to scrape the epoxy off the tip guide and then broke the broken tip off flush with the guide. Then I had to use a super tiny flathead screwdriver to auger out the carbon fiber from the tip. This took a while. I also had to sand down the new tip of the rod blank with fine wet sandpaper because it was a slightly larger diameter than the original blank tip. I then secured it with the correct thermoplastic cement. It looks like to me but it bugs me knowing that it used to be two inches longer. I’m hoping to test it out soon. Also am trying to buy a replacement rod section but can’t get a response from anyone. I’m guessing no one has any extra rod sections in stock.


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I guess it was about 2 years back my nephew broke the tip off his BC TZ 6' 10" rod....just maybe a little over an inch. He got the old tip top off and was able to get it on the rod. He fished it for a while then had me order him a replacement top.....LOL. Then he wanted to buy my TZ and I sold it to him....so now he has two 6' 10" BC TZ rods. You'll be able to get a replacement top but I'm sure it will be a while.


Regards