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Hi guys as the title says ive decided to try to setup my boat for crappie. I know i want a spot lock troller and new graphs. Im trying to decide if i should try to save money and buy used or just buy new. I would love to have a live scope setup but think its probably out of my price range. ive been looking at helix9s and 10s with mega imaging. kinda overwhelmed really would like some of your opinions. my main goal is to be able to find brush and shoot under docks.
Just my opinion but not much difference between 9-10 especially for the price difference. The mega gives some outstanding pictures and I’d say the SI would serve you well around docks. My biggest advice is set you a budget and stick with it. Lots of people start telling you this is better, that is better. We can all help you spend money you can’t afford to spend.
The trolling motor would be my first investment. Spot / anchor lock is awesome while shooting docks
I bought a couple of rods for shooting docks and even practiced in the yard with them.
But you know what, none of the lakes i fish have any docks except the one at the ramp. lol
So think before you jump.
ive been doing alot of looking on the webs. best prices ive found so far is a 80lb terrova with spotlock and the new mega imaging transducer for 1800.00 on cabelas. I have a helix 5 si on the console right now. I was thinking of adding the helix9 mega gn3 ive found it for 999.00 best price i could find. would that make a good combo for brush pile crappie. and are the prices good. thanks
my biggest dilemma would I be better off buying new or trying to save a little money and buy used
I will share my 1.5 cents since I went thru this a couple years ago. Agree with above that the TM would be my first priority. The spot lock is the one thing for me that has changed the way I fish.Quote:
Originally Posted by outback32
Next thing for me is locating fish and structure and that is where side imaging has come in. I have my SI TD on the stern and run the big motor to run the bank or off docks and find the ones with fish in them. In shallow water it can be harder for me to see fish. Then I mark the spots I want to go back and fish.
DI on the bow would be next but not required if you marked your structure or docks. I still use the buoy markers on structure.
Before you buy a TM or graph I strongly recommend you call Brian at BBG Marine. Sponsor on here and his prices are great, CS is exceptional.
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:hesaid
I have a Helix 9 Mega+ G3N at my console. In my opinion it is perfect. $999 is a great price last I looked. I have it networked to a Helix 7 G2N that uses the standard 2d transducer on my Terrova. The 2d for me is easier to see fish on than DI and the Terrova was less expensive with 2d. I can also see my jig on it when vertical fishing.
Since you fish brush alot having the networked units is nice. You can mark it at the console on SI and then use your front unit to find it when you get on the trolling motor. I trolled around in many a circle before I networked my units :Rofl
thanks for the replies it has helped and gave me more questions lol. My boat now has a gn1 helix 5 si di gps at the console. my thoughts were to leave it there and get the helix 9 mega gn3 Di and put it up front by the trolling motor. would that be a good idea also my thoughts were to upgrade the 5 to a gn3 helix 7 next year so i could link it all together. part of me keeps thinking id be better off jusy spencing tbe money and getting livescope
As stated above by Marine4life callBrian at BBG marine.
Talk to him in person, he will definitely save you money.
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Yobuck, I disagree with using shooting just for docks. Too many places I fish are just crowded with stuff. Overhanging branches, logs, weeds that are always behind something. There’s some days I shoot more than I cast and I never fish one dock. The presentation is a line drive and with practice, very close to pinpoint accurate.Quote:
Originally Posted by yobuck
If I were getting a new unit and you can afford it, get one with SI and with it, you will also have your 2D and DI. You will find SI to become a number one tool for locating structure and fish.
I have a helix5 si at the console I was planning on getting a helix9 mega gn3 and pair it with a new terrova with the mega transducer. my plan was to eventually add a 7si where the 5 is. should i put a si finder on the troller alsoQuote:
Originally Posted by cevans
I would recommend you get the bigger screen for the SI as it seems to help greatly seeing the detail. IMO, at least in the 20ft or less water I fish I think you could get by with a smaller screen for the DI/2D.Quote:
Originally Posted by outback32
I don’t recommend a SI on the TM because it blurs the image as the motor moves around. Just something to consider.
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Take a look at the iLink for your Terrova if you are getting the Helix. Gives you lots of optionsQuote:
Originally Posted by outback32
Don't forget Motorguide XI5. If you have a smaller boat you can get a 12v for $999, and i think they have a $100 rebate. I had a XI5 for 3 years and loved it. I believe it was quieter than the Ulterra i have now.
is there much difference between a helix gn2 and the helix gn3. do you think id be better off buying a gn2 or the new gn3
Schnee's has mega 12 SI G2N for $1499
Your g2n models are 3-4-5 yrs old, your mega G2N’s were discontinued early early last year. Your latest model is the g3n’s. Some day at some point, Humminbird will discontinue adding something and updating the older models. If your ever considering adding a Mega 360 I has to be plugged into a DI + or SI+ Mega g3n model. The newer models also have the newer transducers and chirp. Some of the older models have a less better transducer. More power also in the newer models and some also have more pixels per sq. Inch for better pic. G3N transducers get out farther and deeper also. Just a FYI.
I think il just buy a new g3n when i get something because im wanting to pair it with a new mega imaging terrovaQuote:
Originally Posted by cevans
sorry for the late reply, but, what unit are you running on the stern. I'm trying to determine what unit would be best for me. I am wanting to do about the same thing you are describing. use the unit with side imaging to locate brush piles and or bridge pillars that have brush/fish around them.
There are so many type nowadays its really difficult to pinpoint what would work best. I'd like to have the side imaging, gps and of course down imaging.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cevans
Only some of this is true, and even then, only partially. The screen resolution depends upon what model you are talking about. The flagships of the Helix line, the 10s & 12s, have no display improvement.
The G2 models support the use of the HW transducers via software updates that were released last summer.
The Scheels 12 HW SI G2N deal mentioned previously is sold out now.
As for the differences between a G2 and a G3, largely this will depend on where you fish. For me, the vast majority of lakes I fish in are not large enough or deep enough for the added distance offered by the MEGA+ to be of any benefit. The MEGA of the G2 reaches everything I need to see, and the addition of the HW 2D transducer has really made improvement over the standard transducer that the unit originally shipped with. The only other thing that would push me to recommend a G3 unit is as noted by another poster, that the new MEGA 360 requires a G3 unit since it is a transducer connection, not an ethernet connection as previous models were.
As for trolling motor, I chose an Ulterra over a Terrova. For the relatively small price difference (at the time), the benefit of an automated stow & deploy was huge. I will not ever own another boat without it. The motorized trim is also quite nice. When fishing deep water, drop it down into the lake so it's out of my way, and when shallow, just a push of the button and it comes up. No fighting with a collar while hanging half over the bow - especially in chop.
I do strongly recommend a link model. There are many benefits to link that simply are not available in non-link models, not the least of which are follow the contour, circle, GoTo, backtrack, and the increased number of iTracks available.
For the record, my setup is an Ulterra, a 12 G2 DI at the bow, and a 10SI G2 & 10 CHIRP GPS at the console. I like the two graphs at the console since I can display the left side image on one and the right side image on the other. This provides a LOT more screen real estate for viewing the imaging, making it much easier to find fish.
As for buying new vs used - I would have no problem with used graphs (though I did purchase all mine new), but for the TM, I would at least look for a factory reconditioned model if not buying new. If you choose to go that route, call your local authorized repair center and tell them what you're looking for. They do pop up from time to time, and you'll save several hundred dollars, as well as get a warranty.
Tight lines!
What is the low down on a Lowrance hook 2 9" triple shot bundle. Bass Pro has them for $499.00. Worth it?
I did a full outfit this year. No way could I afford to go all new AND keep my wife. It's the little accessories that sneak up on ya and I would say that's the area not to skimp. I bought a used terrova but added the quick release bracket. My used graphs are older but came with the network, compass, and upgraded mounts. I made my own rod holders and transport racks. I should have just bought the millennium to start with. Anyway its changing these things that really impact the damage to your boat. Get the accessories and mounts you want first. If you get used parts to go on them until you know what you like, you wont have extra holes in your boat.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Baitwaster
Excellent points, all! The graphs and trolling motor, while being quite spendy in and of themselves, weren't the whole story. By the time you add 2 Lakemaster cards (one for console and one for bow), three Autochart Zero Lines cards (1 per graph), a heading sensor GPS puck for the console, an ethernet switch, and all the network cabling and adapters, extra remote control, bluetooth remote for the graph(s), plus a bunch of 10ga wire for power, all the connectors and ends for wiring, zip ties, fuses, fuse holders, screws, nuts and bolts, it adds up fast. I'm every bit of $6500 into all the electronics and trolling motor & associated nonsense - on a 16' tin boat that was only $18k new. LOL
Also, make sure to get the correct quick release plate. There are two that will physically fit - but one requires the trolling motor to slide forward (or backward, depending how you mount it), while the other comes apart by sliding sideways about 1/2" and then lifting up. On a Terrova this may not make a big difference, but on an Ulterra this is the difference between hanging your $3000 trolling motor out over the lake if you need to remove it while on the water, vs being able to safely shift it to the side and pick it up. (Ulterras will not stow if the battery gets too low, and the manual stow process is a REAL PITA. Better to just pull it off, throw it on the deck, and then stow it after you charge the batteries again. Luckily I've not had to do this - yet - but it is an important consideration nonetheless).
all this tech stuff makes my head hurt and way to complex for me. heck I just linked up a wireless fob to my TM and my lowrance elite TI SI turns on and then quickly off and havn't used it for last year. I admire you all for your patience and ability to figure all this out. feel the thump!