Powder Painting Quality

Guys,

I've been pouring and painting my own heads for quite a while now, but I'm not really satisfied with the consistency and quality that I'm getting. When I look at some of the heads that guys are selling, I think they are better quality than mine. How do they get the eyes so dang clean? The paint job is flawless. I have to take something sharp and bust the paint out of the eye. From looking at theirs, it appears they are doing something to keep the eye from getting painted when they dip them. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Barry

Harbor freight....get the smallest heat shrink they have. I think it's 1/8 or 1/16. One inch piece and put it on your eye. Heat shrinks it to the eye, dip in paint, then pull the heat shrink off. Clean eyes.

You can use the same piece a few times before it gets so covered in paint it won't go over the eye anymore. Cut that part off and keep going.

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Originally Posted by tlefire

Harbor freight....get the smallest heat shrink they have. I think it's 1/8 or 1/16. One inch piece and put it on your eye. Heat shrinks it to the eye, dip in paint, then pull the heat shrink off. Clean eyes.

You can use the same piece a few times before it gets so covered in paint it won't go over the eye anymore. Cut that part off and keep going.

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Thanks man, I appreciate you sharing that with me. I knew there had to be some trick to it.

Hey Barry,
To use heat shrink to protect eyelets here are the sizes I like For size 6 hooks try 3/64"
for 4,2,1, try 1/8"
for 1/0 and larger try3/32"
I like about a 3/8" piece of shrink with a small space allowed at the base of the eyelet to allow the paint to cover that area of the jig.
I have bought all my shrink on ebay in 100' rolls...it is low cost and of good enough quality to protect eyelets.
Another thing I have done for years is to use 1/4" stainless steel tubing( 6" sections) to heat shield hook eyelets and/or crane swivels from the heat before dipping in the fluid bed paint.It minimizes wasting paint that will stick to the heat shrink otherwise.
Lastly I use round tooth picks to remove paint from hook eyelets when making road runners as I can "heat shield" the crane swivel or the eyelet but not both with the stainless tubing.I do use heat shrink on the crane swivel and the eyelet.
Good luck

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Originally Posted by Snagged again

Hey Barry,
To use heat shrink to protect eyelets here are the sizes I like For size 6 hooks try 3/64"
for 4,2,1, try 1/8"
for 1/0 and larger try3/32"
I like about a 3/8" piece of shrink with a small space allowed at the base of the eyelet to allow the paint to cover that area of the jig.
I have bought all my shrink on ebay in 100' rolls...it is low cost and of good enough quality to protect eyelets.
Another thing I have done for years is to use 1/4" stainless steel tubing( 6" sections) to heat shield hook eyelets and/or crane swivels from the heat before dipping in the fluid bed paint.It minimizes wasting paint that will stick to the heat shrink otherwise.
Lastly I use round tooth picks to remove paint from hook eyelets when making road runners as I can "heat shield" the crane swivel or the eyelet but not both with the stainless tubing.I do use heat shrink on the crane swivel and the eyelet.
Good luck

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Thanks! Good information. I'm trying pour some heads this morning. This brand new Jacobsen mold is giving me a tough time. It seems like the throat needs to be drilled out a little.

My appologies...I got your heat shrink sizes wrong...just noticed today.
Size 4,2,1....use 1/16 not 1/8
Also on a #12 crane swivel try 3/32

Sorry about the mistake...

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Snagged again

Hey Barry,
To use heat shrink to protect eyelets here are the sizes I like For size 6 hooks try 3/64"
for 4,2,1, try 1/8"
for 1/0 and larger try3/32"
I like about a 3/8" piece of shrink with a small space allowed at the base of the eyelet to allow the paint to cover that area of the jig.
I have bought all my shrink on ebay in 100' rolls...it is low cost and of good enough quality to protect eyelets.
Another thing I have done for years is to use 1/4" stainless steel tubing( 6" sections) to heat shield hook eyelets and/or crane swivels from the heat before dipping in the fluid bed paint.It minimizes wasting paint that will stick to the heat shrink otherwise.
Lastly I use round tooth picks to remove paint from hook eyelets when making road runners as I can "heat shield" the crane swivel or the eyelet but not both with the stainless tubing.I do use heat shrink on the crane swivel and the eyelet.
Good luck

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Hey,
I realized just now my heat shrink size info had a mistake....Sorry
for 4,2,1 size hooks try 1/16" NOT 1/8"
Also for a # 12 crane swivel try the 3/32"
My apologies

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Snagged again

Hey,
I realized just now my heat shrink size info had a mistake....Sorry
for 4,2,1 size hooks try 1/16" NOT 1/8"
Also for a # 12 crane swivel try the 3/32"
My apologies

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No problem, thanks for the clarification. What do you use to heat the head before you dip it into the powder cup? I'm using an oil lamp. I hold the hook with a pair of forceps, 4 second count on each side of the head for 1/16, then dip it into the cup. 3 seconds for 1/32.

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Originally Posted by Barry70Stang

No problem, thanks for the clarification. What do you use to heat the head before you dip it into the powder cup? I'm using an oil lamp. I hold the hook with a pair of forceps, 4 second count on each side of the head for 1/16, then dip it into the cup. 3 seconds for 1/32.

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Hey Barry,
I have an electric heat gun from True Value that sets pointing upright.I also do seconds counting ,one thousand one,one thousand two ,and so on.I tackle-craft in an outside shed that is unheated.Occasionally use space heater in winter months.Depending on shed temp ,jig size ,and the paint itself the amount of time varies. Anytime I can be of any help you are welcome to PM me.Good Luck and enjoy your tackle-crafting.

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Originally Posted by Barry70Stang

No problem, thanks for the clarification. What do you use to heat the head before you dip it into the powder cup? I'm using an oil lamp. I hold the hook with a pair of forceps, 4 second count on each side of the head for 1/16, then dip it into the cup. 3 seconds for 1/32.

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I have used an alcohol burner for 15 years, don't care for the noise of the heat gun and also the other issues I have with it, like the chord getting in the way as well as other things. I know lots of guys like the heat gun, I stick with my clean burning alcohol burner!

Skip

I lot of good stuff on this post, thanks guy's

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Originally Posted by skiptomylu

I have used an alcohol burner for 15 years, don't care for the noise of the heat gun and also the other issues I have with it, like the chord getting in the way as well as other things. I know lots of guys like the heat gun, I stick with my clean burning alcohol burner!

Skip

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Hey Skip,
For each thier own.I also own an alcohol burner but prefer the electric for easy on/off and even heat distribution.The cord is not any problem and since I am hard of hearing noise(what noise?) Is not a issue.I do still use the alcohol burner while building arrows.It's whatever you learn to like.

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Originally Posted by Snagged again

Hey Skip,
For each thier own.I also own an alcohol burner but prefer the electric for easy on/off and even heat distribution.The cord is not any problem and since I am hard of hearing noise(what noise?) Is not a issue.I do still use the alcohol burner while building arrows.It's whatever you learn to like.

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All very true and everyone has their own comfort level with different tools. I started with the alcohol burner and at some point guys talking about using a heat gun I gave it a try, but it felt kind of like trying to throw the ball with my left hand when I am right handed, lol! So I stopped really fast and put that away for use on other things, lol!

I am so hard headed and set in my ways that I still have not tried using the shrink tubing to cover the swivels on my Roadrunners and I have painted and tied a huge number of them. I use to buy the unpainted heads from Blakemore and my minimum was 500 heads of any size or type. Now am thinking I should have tried that heat shrink thing a long time ago, lol!

Skip

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Originally Posted by skiptomylu

All very true and everyone has their own comfort level with different tools. I started with the alcohol burner and at some point guys talking about using a heat gun I gave it a try, but it felt kind of like trying to throw the ball with my left hand when I am right handed, lol! So I stopped really fast and put that away for use on other things, lol!

I am so hard headed and set in my ways that I still have not tried using the shrink tubing to cover the swivels on my Roadrunners and I have painted and tied a huge number of them. I use to buy the unpainted heads from Blakemore and my minimum was 500 heads of any size or type. Now am thinking I should have tried that heat shrink thing a long time ago, lol!

Skip

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Hey Skip,
About like everything else in life there are always trade-offs...I do like using heat shrink on eyelets and especially crane swivels for keeping the powder paint out BUT it does take extra time to install and remove the shrink after curing.That is a negative no doubt.For many years I have used 1/4 " stainless steel tubing sections about 6" long to heat shield the crane ,allowing the hook eyelet to heat ,then using round toothpicks to remove eyelet paint after curing.That is a whole lot less trouble /time than shrink but a guy does have to "break free "some cranes occasionally. Either method gets the job done.Again the shrink elimates the unwanted paint but it does take more time to install /remove.
I will admit to being a switch hitter as I still employ both methods.
Through the years I have produced several thousand horse head/pony head spinners.They take time to produce so that is always a big consideration. I am completely relaxed and at ease with the "Blakemore Road Runner Police" as I have sold none.You would be suprised how many I have given away to friends and strangers sometimes at boat ramps while talking fishing.
You have helped me Skip getting started in a "new to me " variety of tackle-crafting.That is hand-tying jigs and I appreciate your advice and supplies.
Thank You Kindly

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Originally Posted by Snagged again

Hey Skip,
About like everything else in life there are always trade-offs...I do like using heat shrink on eyelets and especially crane swivels for keeping the powder paint out BUT it does take extra time to install and remove the shrink after curing.That is a negative no doubt.For many years I have used 1/4 " stainless steel tubing sections about 6" long to heat shield the crane ,allowing the hook eyelet to heat ,then using round toothpicks to remove eyelet paint after curing.That is a whole lot less trouble /time than shrink but a guy does have to "break free "some cranes occasionally. Either method gets the job done.Again the shrink elimates the unwanted paint but it does take more time to install /remove.
I will admit to being a switch hitter as I still employ both methods.
Through the years I have produced several thousand horse head/pony head spinners.They take time to produce so that is always a big consideration. I am completely relaxed and at ease with the "Blakemore Road Runner Police" as I have sold none.You would be suprised how many I have given away to friends and strangers sometimes at boat ramps while talking fishing.
You have helped me Skip getting started in a "new to me " variety of tackle-crafting.That is hand-tying jigs and I appreciate your advice and supplies.
Thank You Kindly

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Your welcome! I have always just wrapped the tin foil around the swivel and tried to keep paint out of the top, but sometimes it just is what it is, lol! The real Roadrunners in 1/32 are the hardest due to being the smallest and since they only make that with a #6 hook there is not a ton of room. The ponies are a lot easier since the larger sickle hooks give so much room, but still the same issue on the eye and swivel. I have used a toothpick for all my tying time, but the last few years the toothpicks I got had to be whittled down so I do that. It just makes it a lot easier to deal with, but if one or two get by and are closed I have a thin needle bodkin I use to heat up and stir through melting the paint out to the eye and I do this as I tie them. I have not tried the heat shrink because of what you said, time and having to deal with taking it back off, lol!

Skip

Folks, I finally broke down and tried the heat shrink a couple months ago and it is so easy to fall in love with. It does have a time element but the jigs look beautiful and the time I spent fooling with the shrink is made up by very little cleaning if any. It's not that much different plus this is just like every thing you all do with every step of jig tying, it does get quicker with practice. Having said that, I pour dozens and not thousands. I can not relate to that extent of the spectrum. Lot of good info in the post.

I pour thousands to donate, but a lot of great info from the pro's.

Thanks

Hey ,
To be just a little philosophical as we go through life there is always an opportunity to learn...a lifelong process.
Anyway just another little tidbit about heat shrink that I have learned myself.
The black common 3/32 shrink that I have been using for eyelets and crane swivels is easy to remove from an eyelet but difficult to remove from a crane...I use a snap blade utility knife to make a slice in the shrink top to bottom(jig head).Then usually have to push left and right next to the slice at the top of the crane's body to be able to push downward with my thumbnail to free the shrink from the crane....Finally here's the news...If you use the clear poly shrink .092" ID it is conciderably easier to remove after painting/curing.It is the difference of day and night.The black shrink wants to adhere to the body of the crane...the clear poly does not hardly at all.Save yourself some headache and get some clear poly for your cranes.The black is still fine for eyelets though.Enjoy your Tackle-Crafting and fishing.Be safe of Covid-19. Attachment 372315
One more item...the local hardware store charges $2 for the small snap blade knife and over $4 for the large.Amazon has the small 12 for $12 with 10 refil blades...the large 12 for $12.Much better pricing.
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Originally Posted by Snagged again

Hey ,
To be just a little philosophical as we go through life there is always an opportunity to learn...a lifelong process.
Anyway just another little tidbit about heat shrink that I have learned myself.
The black common 3/32 shrink that I have been using for eyelets and crane swivels is easy to remove from an eyelet but difficult to remove from a crane...I use a snap blade utility knife to make a slice in the shrink top to bottom(jig head).Then usually have to push left and right next to the slice at the top of the crane's body to be able to push downward with my thumbnail to free the shrink from the crane....Finally here's the news...If you use the clear poly shrink .092" ID it is conciderably easier to remove after painting/curing.It is the difference of day and night.The black shrink wants to adhere to the body of the crane...the clear poly does not hardly at all.Save yourself some headache and get some clear poly for your cranes.The black is still fine for eyelets though.Enjoy your Tackle-Crafting and fishing.Be safe of Covid-19.
One more item...the local hardware store charges $2 for the small snap blade knife and over $4 for the large.Amazon has the small 12 for $12 with 10 refil blades...the large 12 for $12.Much better pricing.
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Thanks I may have to try that especially since I don't tie for others any longer, but I need to tie some for my sons so this may help! What size do you think I would need for the Crane's on the 1/32 Oz Roadrunner as it's pretty small?

Skip

Hey Skip,
3/32" is the correct size for a size 12 crane swivel.I am betting you will like using it.I use size 12 cranes from 1/32 through 1/4 ounce.I would be suprised if yours are any smaller...If they are then drop down to 1/16" shrink. Good Luck

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Originally Posted by Snagged again

Hey Skip,
3/32" is the correct size for a size 12 crane swivel.I am betting you will like using it.I use size 12 cranes from 1/32 through 1/4 ounce.I would be suprised if yours are any smaller...If they are then drop down to 1/16" shrink. Good Luck

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Okay thank you! I am not sure what Blakemore swivels size on that are, maybe I knew years ago, but not sure. I do have a lot of Pony heads too and maybe my 1/48 will need smaller, but I can find out that size. All mu pony heads I had them use Roller Swivels on them, but the Roadrunners use Crane. I like the Roller's a lot, have you tried them?

Skip

No I am not familiar with rollers.Since my molds call for a #12 crane that is what I have used through the years.Always buy 1,000 packs way ahead of running out.I did try moulding in #10's to see if I could get a crane with a bit higher pound test (#12's are around 15 pounds) .For the guys who cast really hard eventually they will break the crane.Anyway that was a waste of time and I have only used 12's since.I will look up the rollers though.Thanks


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Originally Posted by Snagged again

No I am not familiar with rollers.Since my molds call for a #12 crane that is what I have used through the years.Always buy 1,000 packs way ahead of running out.I did try moulding in #10's to see if I could get a crane with a bit higher pound test (#12's are around 15 pounds) .For the guys who cast really hard eventually they will break the crane.Anyway that was a waste of time and I have only used 12's since.I will look up the rollers though.Thanks


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If I am not mistaken the Roller Swivels are better than Crane quality wise and why I had my guy use them. Size is same, that should still be a #12 if you ever decide to try them. I don't think he normally uses them, but I don't like the cheaper ones he usually put in the Ponies. We trade a lot, lol!

Skip

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Originally Posted by skiptomylu

If I am not mistaken the Roller Swivels are better than Crane quality wise and why I had my guy use them. Size is same, that should still be a #12 if you ever decide to try them. I don't think he normally uses them, but I don't like the cheaper ones he usually put in the Ponies. We trade a lot, lol!

Skip

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Skip,
I have 2 or 3 thousand packs in the shed and just ordered another a few days ago.I believe I did use rollers a while back but they were cost prohibitive.....#12 cranes of the quality I like are $35-36/1,000.The rollers were a lot higher...a good swivel but I like the price of the cranes better.If I was only producing a smaller # then the rollers would be more of a consideration.

Great information for sure

Hey Skip,
I did some searching and did find some size 12 roller swivels at Barlow's for $40/500.So the cost is over double.After looking at them I recognized that I have used the the rollers before.In use could not tell much difference as best I can remember.Think I'll buy 1,000 and evaluate them again though the cranes do pretty well. Occasionally break but not very often.Usually a guy has to abuse them to get them to break.

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Next question is where purchase clear poly shrink.

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Originally Posted by darcie1

Next question is where purchase clear poly shrink.

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Hey ,
I need to explain a bit more ...there are different types of heat shrink AND they come in a variety of colors. To me the clear is preferable as I am able to see if the crane is positioned where I want it before applying the heat.For hook eyelets the black or any other color is fine.The type to get is polyolefin and again I prefer the clear.If you do a ebay search for"heat shrink tubing 3/32" the second or third item is $11.99 for a 100' roll.
Next do the same for 1/16" and 3/64".I know it is an investment but then you are done for years.If you want to spend less look for smaller quantities than 100'.Good luck and enjoy your tackle-crafting.

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Agree eBay for the heath shrink and some other things, but how much can someone mess up heat shrink tubing?

Skip

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Originally Posted by skiptomylu

Agree eBay for the heath shrink and some other things, but how much can someone mess up heat shrink tubing?

Skip

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I am not real sure what you mean by "mess-up"...if you read the prior comments the issue is some shrink adheres to crane swivels whereas some do not nearly as much.So it is the difference between literaly fighting to remove or easy removal. About any shrink on a hook eyelet is easy to remove.On a crane or roller swivel is where it can be a big issue.

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Originally Posted by Snagged again

Hey ,
I need to explain a bit more ...there are different types of heat shrink AND they come in a variety of colors. To me the clear is preferable as I am able to see if the crane is positioned where I want it before applying the heat.For hook eyelets the black or any other color is fine.The type to get is polyolefin and again I prefer the clear.If you do a ebay search for"heat shrink tubing 3/32" the second or third item is $11.99 for a 100' roll.
Next do the same for 1/16" and 3/64".I know it is an investment but then you are done for years.If you want to spend less look for smaller quantities than 100'.Good luck and enjoy your tackle-crafting.

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Thanks Snagged, got me a roll ordered.