I am considering making my single axle trailer into a tandem axle. Any pros or cons about doing it. How about info on where to place axles on trailer? Thanks in advance for any info.
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I am considering making my single axle trailer into a tandem axle. Any pros or cons about doing it. How about info on where to place axles on trailer? Thanks in advance for any info.
Why , are u using a trailer , not for application
Trailer Axle Position - Trailer Building: Where Does The Axle Go?
A little evolved but should give you a good reference. Good luck.
Then keep a spare hub loaded with bearings. Unless you let one go way too long and it chews up the spindle, takes about the same amount of time to swap a hub as it does to chain up an axle.
To convert to tandems, you're looking at cutting off all the current mounts and welding on new ones to get the axles centered properly, plus the expense of a whole new axle assembly, wheels and tires, springs, fenders, hardware, etc.
Whe.n pushing a trailer by hand it is almost impossible to turn a tandem axle trailer
Thanks for the feedback. any more input?
Quote:
Thanks for the feedback. any more input?
Before I add any input as to the tandem vs single, I would like to know what type of boat and what the boat and gear weighs and what tire size the trailer has now.
Trailers supplied with boats is one of the areas dealers can work on price and most trailers are just on the fringe of overload unless a custom trailer was specced for that boat.
Just adding an axle or going to a tandem may be too stiff for the load so let's start at the beginning, where the rubber meets the road.
Blue wave 189 center console around 1500#, has 14 in. tires
Is that the total loaded or just hull weight?Quote:
Blue wave 189 center console around 1500#
Keepin mind the hull weight+motor+ fuel+batteries +accessories etc and the weight of the trailer itself.
Looked at their web page and smallest hull weights I could find ranged between 1395 & 1500.
Either way it would seem that a tandem axle may be overkill for that weight class.
Kind of a rule of thumb is under 3000lb is a single and over is getting into a tandem due to tire weight capacity.
Considering at 2000lbs total with weight of trailer added, each wheel on a tandem would only carry 500lbs.
Most tandem trailers I have owned had 3500 -4000lb axles so each wheel had a capacity of 1750 -2000lbs.
A tandem may bounce too much unless the trailer manuf. adjusted the spring capacity accordingly.
Also keep in mind a wider wheel base trailer is much more stable when towing.
Any numbers, weight/axle capacity ratings visible on your current trailer?
Changing a single to a tandem maybe be a possibility but it is a balancing act best left to the manufacturers.
If you decide on a tandem, I would just get a new trailer specced for that boat and sell the single axle as you would be money ahead and much happier in the way it tows long distance.
Just went through this last year in deciding on a new trailer for my 20 yr old 17.5 ft alum. Sylvan(total loaded weight about 2500lbs) for long trips (1000-1200 miles@way) to Canada.
Had a Trailmaster 4" tube(heavier than 3" tube), 96" wide, with a Dexter 4000lb EZ lube axle and Goodyear Endurance D rated tires for weight and a 87mph speed rating built.
Last year while taking a turn driving, a friend commented on how well the new trailer and boat towed and tracked behind the truck like his tandem trailer.
Feel free to ask any questions and Good Luck on your decision.
Right after I bought this boat a bearing went out on 1 of the wheels and left me stranded. That is the main reason for wanting a tandem axle, you can at least tie up the bad axle and make it home. My Champion 190 that I had before this boat had a tandem trailer and I loved the way it towed. The single axle will sway a little more than the tandem.
Sounds like a tandem is in your future.Quote:
Right after I bought this boat a bearing went out on 1 of the wheels and left me stranded. That is the main reason for wanting a tandem axle, you can at least tie up the bad axle and make it home. My Champion 190 that I had before this boat had a tandem trailer and I loved the way it towed. The single axle will sway a little more than the tandem.
Good Luck and send us a pic of the new trailer.
Trailer hubs, bearings, seals, grease, maintenance, and inspections are KEY.
My goal is NO breakdowns in that area.
More often than not, neglect in one of the above leads to failure.
Add to that, you are dunking the units in the water TWICE every time you take your boat out. They need good grease AND good seals to keep the water out.
At least a time or two during the season I roll out the floor jack and lift up one side of the trailer to just get the wheel off the ground, and give it a good spin by hand. Is it smooth? Quiet? Any rumbles? Tug and pull on the wheel, if all is well do the other side. Only takes a few minutes.
A couple of years ago that's how I found a bad bearing in a wheel - one of the individual roller bearings was broken in half, with one half tumbling around in there. It showed no other warnings. Plenty of good grease, just a roller bearing went bad. The hubs had several years on them, so I removed both, cleaned and greased the spindles, and replaced both hubs. Now I tow with confidence.
So, I am a firm believer that nothing beats a good physical inspection and maintenance. Look at it as a confidence builder.
I think rednecktrailer.com used to have a placement guide on their website.
Etrailer.com might also.
Thanks for the input.
Just make sure you get Timken bearings.
Not Chinese junk.
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Man, I wish that was still true.
Timken Bearings are made in what ever country is stamped on that individual bearing.
"Timken" bearings are currently made in Mexico, Poland, Italy, Brazil, China, Japan, as well as in the U.S.
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Thanks for all the replies.