Been reading most livescope owners have it hooked to
the starting battery. Isn't treating the starting battery like a deep cycle battery bad for it?
Early replacement?
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Been reading most livescope owners have it hooked to
the starting battery. Isn't treating the starting battery like a deep cycle battery bad for it?
Early replacement?
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It has a 4amp pull, so yeah it might be a negative factor on a starting battery. :dono I do know that my buddy that has one has his connected to a battery of its own.
I think most are using a designated battery for the scope. I could be wrong though. I have a designated battery (actually 2 in parallel) just for the graph and black box. My cranking battery is a group 31 with two helix units running off it plus bilge pumps, livewells etc. I wouldn't consider it a wise choice to run the livescope off a simple group 24 cranking battery for a long period of time. They do use a good bit of power. I've never seen the need for the extra CCA that a true cranking battery provides. Of course, it doesn't get that cold in MS and during the winter months my boat is stored in a heated shop. If you go that route may look into a good deep cycle battery in either group 29 or 31 with a good reserve capacity and decent CCA if it's a concern in your area.
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I run my PLS and 106sv graph with a dedicated lithium battery. I only have a single console graph (HB H9 MSI+ G3N) that runs off the cranking batt - for wiring convenience, mostly. It doesn't use enough power to be a factor, and usually, the big motor is on when I'm using it.
:twocents I'm in the process of hooking up a new livescope system. I went with a 30Ah lithium battery (6lbs.) and a 2amp charger for it.:ThumbsUp Less than $200, cheaper than a good AGM. My starting battery already has 3 Humminbirds hooked up to it plus everything else. We'll see how that does:dono.
Mine is on a dedicated 35ah battery. Zero issues and last all day.
Put a cutoff switch on the cable to battery, turn off if not using, otherwise be careful.
That's why I put a AGM dual purpose for the cranking battery. A LS will expose a weak/bad battery in short order.
Live scope, Garmin 8612 XSV, and 93sv are all on one AGM class 31 battery. I fished 8 hours today and had 12.4 volts when I came in.
What he said. I have an 8610xsv, 74sv on the console, Helix 10 over the 8610, aerators, lights etc. on two parallel linked starting batteries. Have not seen less than 12 volts ever.Quote:
Originally Posted by crappie wrangler
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2 parallel 12 v batteries?
I thought that would yield 24v
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No....you wire in series for 24v. Parallel gives you 12vQuote:
Originally Posted by brettw
Two 12v in parallel is still 12 volts. Two 12v in a series creates 24 volts. I only have two in parallel to give me more juice and added weight on the bow. If looking for lightweight small and convenient, I would look into those lithiums.
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They already have an off/on button..No need for a Switch to rust give problem down the Road..
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And a setting choice to turn the transducer on or off. That is what pulls current anyway, in my thoughts. As an aside, tech support said turn it off if you have the transducer out of the water for more than a short run as it can overheat, particularly in the Texas sun.Quote:
Originally Posted by jackie53
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Hmm. I'm going to test that. I'll just have to bring my Fluke with me, and measure the current the GLS10 is pulling. I already know it draws 13 mA when idling, or "off" (head off) while boat is sitting in the garage (tested when I installed). I will measure it in the "on" condition, with sonar on and off, and also will fool around with gain, range, and depth to see what affects current draw. For me to actually do that on the boat means it will have to be a VERY slow fishing day, or maybe I do it at the dock on the way home. Don't expect an update real soon, but maybe I'll start a thread after for those interested.
Now that would be a thread worth reading. My analysis was only situational and reflective of my experience with no scientific data to substantiate it. Your method would go a long way to establish a base of understanding. Great idea!Quote:
Originally Posted by jawjatek
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WE NEED THAT DATA!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by jawjatek
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I have run my livescope over 9 hours in a single day with this dedicated battery, and its compact enough to fit in mist storage hatches.
Robot Check
I run mine on a group 31 cranking battery with all the pumps and stuff hooked to it and no problems so far. I have a way to hook my trolling battery to my starting battery if needed. I'm going to get a lithium jumpbox to use if needed.
If livescope is pulling more than 4 amps and your going with a 30 amp lithium, your only going to get no more than 7.5 hrs of run time before you run out of battery power. Everything I have read about lithium, is you never want to drain it down to no more than 20% of the power left in it or it decreases battery life. I think 50 amp would be a better choice, just a FYI.Quote:
Originally Posted by oldgoat188
I generally only crappie fish 4-6 hrs. a day. I tend to agree with you but think I will be alright. I also used the following as a guide:Quote:
Originally Posted by cevans
"You can look up the current draw for everything attached to your battery and add them up and multiply by the number of hours you want to be able to fish without recharging to figure out a good battery size.
I am running my 106SV off of an Amped Electronics 30AH battery. It consumes 26W and a LI battery is around 13V. Thus the current is 26/13 = 2amps. Thus I can theoretically run for 15 hours.
For the livescope bundle the listed power consumption is 21 W typical, 58 W max. That is in addition to your FF power consumption. Thus for an LI battery (13V) that would be 1.615A to 4.462A of current draw.
Thus at max draw (not sure what that means in terms of configuration) fora 10 hour day on the water you would need a 45AH battery for just the livescope (probably overkill). For typical power consumption you would need a 17AH battery.
Thus, for a 106SV + livescope the typical power consumption is 3.615A and for 10 hours of usage you would need a 37AH battery for 12 hours a 44AH battery, etc.
The above assumes you only have the FF and livescope attached. I typed this up pretty quickly so if anyone sees a math error you won't hurt my feelings by making fun of me for it :)
I will say that one nice thing about LI vs lead acid is that LI is 13.2V to start and lead acid is around 12.6V. As you run them through the day the voltage on the lead acid drops which causes an increase in current draw to compensate. LI batteries are nice because they stay above 13V for almost their entire discharge cycle."
Keep us posted how you do using the lithium. I have all my electronics on a Ionic 50 amp and the 12 v Powerdrive v2 trolling motor on 1 100amp Ionic lithium and after using a couple times may add another 100 amp after seeing the usage on the one.
If it works out that the 30ah isn't big enough could I just add another battery to it, say a 17 or 20ah?Quote:
Originally Posted by cevans
With lithium that has a built in BMS system,,,,YES. You can add any size in parallel as the BMS system will equalize the draw of amps unlike wet or glass cell batteries. I asked 2 different manufacturers of lithium batteries this question and got the same answer from both.Quote:
Originally Posted by oldgoat188