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I have installed a Helix 10" with DI&SI gen 2.
When I start the boat or use the unit with the outboard off, it looses power. I then have to restart the unit every time and it will work for a few minutes and cut off.
I have changed the battery and it didn't help. It is a group27 marine cranking/deep cycle battery.
I think it might be a voltage drop on starting the outboard, but to have it drop out when the motor isn't running?
Open to any suggestions.
Sounds like a low voltage problem. Best to run a dedicated wire to battery just for the sonar. It will need to be a heavy gauge wire and what ever size fuse your sonar recommends. :twocents
A reset or dip while starting the boat is because the starter motor is pulling mucho current, and pulling the voltage down. If the wires & batt are properly sized and connections good, and there is no issue with the starter, it shouldn't happen. Check battery connections and wiring, and - as scrat posted - use dedicated wire directly to batt is generally best.
As for resetting when not starting, I agree with scrat this sounds like low-voltage fault probably caused by a wiring issue. If possible, measure the voltage while Helix is on, as close to unit as you can. Or, set a voltage alarm and incrementally decrease the setting until the alarm goes off.
My boat has a short run of #8 from batt posts (with 40A breaker) to a fuse panel mounted under console. Power to my console Helix 9 MSI+ unit goes straight to the panel with only the supplied power cord cord. No issues, full voltage always.
If it’s cutting off when motor not running you have a connection problem. First thing I would check is plug on back of unit. I have read where several people have had issues with that plug staying in. Then go down the line and check every splice and connection on power and ground wire. I’m betting you have a bad connection at one of those points. I would wire it up direct or like Jawjatec did his.Quote:
Originally Posted by Racoon
This is the wire I use ... I use 10 gauge ...
Marine Grade Wire Duplex DC, Tinned Copper USA Made Boat Wiring
Rickie
I THINK IT IS IN YOUR CONNECTION AT THE BACK OF THE UNIT. I HAVE A 9 DOING THE VERY SAME THING AND HAVE ADDED SOME TINY PIECES OF WIRE ON BOTH SIDES OF CONNECTOR ON BACK OF UNIT TO MAKE CONNECTION
I put both my units in sleep mode before I crank the big engine. Takes about 10 seconds to do both units. Once the big motor has started just touch the power button and both units are powered back up. If your units are cutting off with the motor off you either have a bad battery or like suggested above bad wiring.
Thanks everyone. Guess I will be pulling out some wire or fishing new wire back to the battery.
Billynitten, could you better describe or show a picture of what you are adding tiny pieces of wire to the connector?
thanks again for the input!!
For troubleshooting purposes, the first thing I would do is set the unit to show data boxes and set one of those to display voltage ..... or look at the voltage in the system status screen.
If the voltage is low even before you try to crank the motor, you know you either have too small of wire or a bad connection somewhere causing the problem ..... do not use a glass type fuse holder. Use a marine spady type fuse. As some have mentioned, the connector on the back of the unit could also be the cause of voltage loss to the unit. There is a way to troubleshoot that also, but the first step is to see what the voltage is on the unit display without the motor running. With a fully charged battery and good wiring you should be seeing at least 12.2V or more
At 12.2 volts the battery is at 60%
Attachment 362191
The voltage at the unit will not be the same as the voltage of the battery. It would be good to know the battery voltage .. and .. the voltage the unit displays in order to determine how much drop their is across the wiring circuit.Quote:
Originally Posted by Barnacle Bill
From my observations of various unit voltage displays .... 12.2 at the UNIT is sufficient as a minimum to indicate their isn't a wiring problem. Lower than that indicates a wiring or battery issue which can be determined by also checking the voltage at the battery.
Been reading about running everything off the crank battery.
Why not use the tm battery?
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#1 is the increased possibility of interference from trolling motorQuote:
Originally Posted by brettw
#2 chances of low voltage as power decreases as you run trolling motor.
#3 voltage fluctuations as motor turns off and on ( might not hurt unit but I can’t believe it’s good for electronics)
#3 is not really an issue with modern switching voltage regulators, or even linear, for that matter, as long as the fluctuations are within the voltage specs of the particular unit. :ThumbsUp
I'm having the same problem on my Helix 7. I do have a glass tube fuse installed so I'm going to switch that out for a blade fuse.
Changing fuse type will do nothing, nada, zilch, zip, niente. A fuse is rarely to blame for anything, unless it is blown. Check voltages on the status page. What do you see? Check connections. What size wire are you using, and how long of a run?
Sorry, but I partially disagree. A glass fuse holder .... especially in a marine environment .....can accumulate currosion and therefore voltage drop. The spade type (marine) fuse holders are much more reliable.Quote:
Originally Posted by jawjatek
I do agree that you want to know what voltage the unit shows .... see it in the system status or if you are using data boxes, select one of them to show voltage so you can see it all the time.
I was watching the voltage on the unit for a few minutes. It seemed to fluctuate between 13.5 to 12.5.
Was the main motor running? If it was, see what the voltage is without it running .... It shouldn't be fluctuating.Quote:
Originally Posted by fishin_addict
Of course if a fuse is corroded it might be a problem, duh. Any connection with corrosion is a problem, but otherwise there is no electrical difference between 3AG and blades, which is truth, and I stick by it.
Of course there is no "electrical" difference between them .... when they have good contact .... it is just that glass fuses are MUCH more susceptible to developing a poor connection.Quote:
Originally Posted by jawjatek
This does not take in account of voltage drop on long runs , bigger wire helpsQuote:
Originally Posted by Barnacle Bill
I had problem with a glass fuse, not maintaining a good contact.
Changed to all blade type fuses.
Blue sea fuse block with negative bus bar. I think.
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Sounds like changing wire size, a good idea. It solved the problem I had like yours.Quote:
Originally Posted by BobB